Regular Route (Middle Spire)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 38.78470°N / 120.2208°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach


Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the east side of Middle Spire.

Route Description


Start out in an awkward left-leaning hand crack, which becomes wide-hands, and then a nice lieback crack (wider, needs large pieces). Top out and belay from ledge.

At the ledge you can walk off the south side, or continue up a 5.8 chimney to the top. There are some cracks for pro, and a block which can be slung with a double-length runner. Belay from gear at the top or from anchor bolts.

Descend via rappel off anchor bolts / chains back to ledge and walk off.

Essential Gear


SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range (2 each)

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.