Four Gables

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Elevation:
12720 ft / 3877 m
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Four Gables
Created On: Feb 15, 2005
Last Edited On: Feb 15, 2006

Overview

The Four Gables is a seldom climbed peak located at the head of Horton Creek Canyon. From the east it is an imposing mountain, with a smooth wall of vertical cliffs stretching from the south end of the canyon to the north, almost like a giant dam. From the west the mountain is quite different, being nothing but a talus pile.

This peak offers some nice views of Bear Creek Spire, Tom, and Mt Humphreys from the summit, and the solitude and beauty of Horton Creek Canyon make this peak an enjoyable climb. The eastiest route from the east is class 2, but the east face offers some technical climbs, such as the The Beagle (IV, 5.9), and from the north one can attempt the Northwest Ridge (V, Class 5).

ROUTES OVERVIEW
Route Difficulty FA FA Party Photos
via Horton Lakes
South Ridge cl. 2 1978 Bill Bradley
North Ridge cl. 2 1973 John Ripley, Fred Clements, John Halcomb, John Isaac, and Bruce Masson.
East Ridge cl. 3 1963 Rick Jali (1),(2)
East Face, Left Side cl. 5 1960 Harvey Hickman, Tom Sadler, Bob Weakley, and Rich Gnagy
Northwest Ridge V, cl. 5 1991 Will Crjenko, Andy Selters, and Claude Fiddler
Northeast Buttress II, 5.6 1974 Fred Beckey and Mike Levine
East Face, Right Side III, 5.8 1971 Jeanne Neale and Galen Rowell
The Beagle IV, 5.9R 1978 David Evans and Sibylle Hechtel
via Piute Pass
South Slope cl. 2 1932 Norman Clyde
First ascent information used from R.J. Secor's "The High Sierra" guidebook.

Note: I'm trying a new table format here but I don't have my guidebook with me at the moment, so the route TH listing may not be accurate.


Getting There

Horton Lakes TH

If you're hiking in from this trailhead, then the crux of the climb is probably in gettingto the trailhead!

Take HWY 168 west from the center of Bishop. Head about 7.5 miles and turn right onto Buttermilk Road. At this point, the paved road becomes a passable dirt road. As one gets closer to the mountains the road gets more rough. A 4WD vehicle is needed to make it all the way to the trailhead, and having high clearance would be a benefit. Continue on Buttermilk Road past several forks and turn-outs. When in doubt, take a more traveled right fork. At some point, you will reach the marked intersection of Buttermilk Road and the Horton Lakes trailhead road. Turn right here and follow it for another mile until it reaches a small dead tree forest. If it was challenging for your vehicle to get to this point, you may want to leave it here on the shaded pullout where you can still turn your car around. From there hike the final half a mile to the Horton Lakes trailhead. If you have a 4WD vehicle, continue driving along the worsening road a little further as it turns back across the slopes heading north until you reach the locked gate. Park here to approach any of the eastern, southern, or northern routes to the peak.

Piute Pass TH

This trailhead is used to climb Four Gables via the south slopes and is easy to get to.

Take HWY 168 west from the center of Bishop all the way to North Lake. The trailhead is located at the North Lake campground (9,320 ft). The South Slopes route can be reached from this trail via Desolation Lake.


Red Tape

A wilderness permit is required for all overnight stays in the Horton Creek drainage from May 1 through November 1, and there is a quota. To find out more about getting a permit, check the Inyo National Forest website.


When To Climb

This peak can be climbed year-round, although the East and South Ridges might be more enjoyable with a spring snowpack covering the talus.


Camping

One can car camp at the trailhead, but there are nice camping spots along the trail through the occasional flat meadows passed. One can also camp along the shores of Horton Lake, but to get even closer to the peak one can also camp at Upper Horton Lake.

Of course, there is also camping in the wilderness area to the West.


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Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Jan 4, 2006 1:51 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

duly noted and corrected. Thanks!

butitsadryheat

butitsadryheat - Jan 3, 2006 11:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Hwy 168 is incorrectly listed as Hwy 178.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Jan 4, 2006 1:51 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

duly noted and corrected. Thanks!

Viewing: 1-3 of 3








Four Gables

Mountain/Rock
52 Images 25 Climber's Log Entries 14 Comments 3 Additions & Corrections

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