very good weather to summit
Some difficulties with finding a right path. Perfect conditions, perfect views, amazing day. Climbed with spanish climber Diego.
Perfect conditions, but climbed in a lot of clouds, so not as much to see from the top, but still very gratifying for me. Kudos to my guide who was great- I can see why guides are recommended for even experienced climbers.
I represented 3rd generation of my family to climb this mountain - my Grandfather then my Mother before me - back in the 1950's. I climbed it in 1981 aged 20, but sadly neither were still alive to know it.
Fun and intense. Stormy weather the night before, blue bird sky the next morning. The entire upper route was snow. We got behind some slow pokes and ended up being the last party to make it to the summit, despite the guides saying that we were too late (we had plenty of time). Lots of panicked folks on the descent made for a dangerous ascent. But, at least we had the descent to ourselves.
Nice mountain...nice ski
The conditions were less then pleasant. The lady that checked us in at the hut said that no guides had gone up in the last several days. The Hornli hut was quiet and depressing with less then 20 people staying there. My partner and I had a 14 person dorm all to ourselves. With precipitation in Zermatt at 80% we still decided to make a go of it. Including my partner and I there was only 12 of us to brave the mountain that day. The entire mountain was very icy. White out conditions from snow and fog allowed the route to be visible for only about 20 feet in front of us. Of the 12 people, half turned around before the Solvay hut and were very shaken up and disturbed from getting severely lost on the route. After returning back to Zermatt the weather got even worse and it snowed in Zermatt, in early August no less.
I am sorry that conditions were so bad in that it snowed down to the village. My personal experience confirmed that in early/mid Aug weather can get quite " wintry." As mentioned in my TR, twice in 3 trips to Zermatt in early August were characterized by snow all the way into town with more snow higher up making climbing the Hornli ridge almost impossible.
Climbed w/ guide Markus Beck (Swiss-American from Colorado), not a whole lotta snow at all, kinda dismayed at the melting all around the Alps this year... Great climb and only needed crampons last 300 meters or so. Had to overcome some nasty blisters on my heels from climbing Mont Blanc 3 days prior (small boots) and a toe that had to have blood drained from it from a torn toenail, but persevered! A classic climb with only a couple minor hold-ups/rocks kicked down on the route, but otherwise once we passed everyone, was a beautiful day!
At the summit !!! .More Pictures of the Hornli ascent to Monte Cervino
A perfect day on a perfect mountain with perfect company.
Ali Milligan with Kurt Lauber on the Matterhorn.
3 and a half hours up, 3 hours down.
Solo climb from Hornli hutte. Beautiful mountain but very crowded.
Almost 100 climbers on the way.
Not very funny, expecially along the return.ede
Anyway 4.20h up, 6.00h down.
27 hrs from Carrel Hut to summit and return. Great day (and a bit!)
Checkout my trip report!
3h55 up (25 min break) 3h40 down... go figure !
We were hoping to climb the Liongrat from Italy but was reportedly in poor condition with no Italian guide having made the climb this year, so we went via the Hornli Hut.
It proved a good decision, on our ascent, we passed two Italians at 7am who were descending after climbing the Liongrat, they summitted at 11pm having started at 4am the previous day! They were looking understandably exhausted having been climbing for 27 hours straight! Conditions were so poor they didn't fancy going back down the way they came.
From the summit we saw 3 climbers on the flat section of the Liongrat moving slowly, still a few hours from the summit.
It was a perfect day, great climb. We summitted between the Zermatt guides and the independent climbers so had 15 mins alone on the summit, excellent on a busy day. The fixed rope section was complete chaos, we lost well over an hour there on the way up & down, several ropes getting tangled with 2 groups moving up together and 2 down, like a circus. We took 6 hours up, 6.5 hours down, missed the last cable car so descended the full 3,000m descent into Zermatt on foot.
But a great day, we finished it off in style with a kebab in Zermatt!
Changed plans from the Italian side to Hornli after storms had coated the mountain in ice. The fact that there hadn't been a single guide on the mountain all week should probably have been a red flag but we decided to go for it anyway. Us, and about 13 other climbers Forrest Gumped our way through rock that alternated between being encased in ice to crumbling beneath our feet before finally admitting defeat just below the Solvay hut. Made it back to the Hornli hut 18 hours after we'd set out that morning. Oh well... still a hell of a day out. Next time!
Not as crowded as feared. Fun climb, descent was a bit monotonous towards the end. Overall a lot more fun than I expected.
It was just second ascent in my life to 4000m peak. Though there was realy many people it was amazing climb and experience for me.
It was a life-time achievement. Once fitness and weather conditions permitted an opportunity to ascend, I was climbing a mountain I've marveled my whole life. It was a privilege and an emotional accomplishment, culminating many previous attempts at rock climbing. Once it's over and done with, you're a more humble person, understanding that it is elements of nature that have the upper hand and you're just there to enjoy yourself and grow as a person.
In good conditions. Experienced a bivouc and a heli rescue below us.