Mont Blanc du Tacul Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 118

chicagotransplant - Sep 18, 2023 10:39 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2023

Normal Route  Sucess!

Consolation prize, from Cosmiques Hut with Jamie. Five days before our arrive a snow bridge on Maudit collapsed and we did not have the gear with us to do the bypass that other parties were using. We climbed Mont Blanc du Tacul instead for our first Alps 4000m peak.


runout - Jan 4, 2023 2:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2019

Arete du diable  Sucess!

Lots of towers to climb

Flachlandtiroler - Oct 16, 2020 3:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2020

ArĂȘte du Diable (Teufelsgrat)  Sucess!

Patrick led all pitches. Optimum conditions apart from the scree in the couloir. Only few (4-5) teams in the route. We were a party of three, round trip from/to Torino hut took 17h.


boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Trois Monts route solo  Sucess!

Climbed it during my Trois Monts route solo traverse of Mont Blanc. Also climbed the MB du Tacul E-summit.

AnttiOnDemand - Apr 9, 2016 3:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2002

Trois Monts  Sucess!

Climbed as part of the trois monts traverse.


Nader1 - Mar 4, 2016 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2005

Route Climbed:les trois Monts  Sucess!

Summitted during les trois Monts traverse


Schaps - Dec 29, 2015 5:27 am

Normal route Solo  Sucess!



bergbacke - Nov 5, 2015 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2015

Normal Route  Sucess!

Acclimatisation climb for Mont Blanc


Cissa - Jul 8, 2015 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2015

Pillier Gervassutti

Broken chossy rock, lots of rock fall, scorching heat, my partner ended up getting into an even harder route and we descended horrible rappels halfway through the route.

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Feb 18, 2015 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014

Too much snow

My and my friend Mark (HOL) spent two nights in our tent on the Col du Midi. Our intention was to do the Trois Monts traverse but unfortunately there was way too much snow. All tracks were covered in fresh snow. On our third and final day we launched a summit bid but turned around at around 4.000m. The snow was far too mushy and soft, we were too late and there was a risk of avalanche. Better return to camp.


Rapparee - Jan 15, 2015 8:04 pm

Cold  Sucess!

Came from Chere Couloir. O climbing in the shadow of the mountain is always cold!


Dalian - Oct 11, 2014 1:11 am

Cold  Sucess!

I summited it once with a friend ( Claude ), another time by myself. Another time I came down by helicopter (hypothermia) Taken down to the hospital in Chamonix. It happened on my birthday (2007).
Many times I climbed to the col of Mont Blanc du Tacul alone or with friends, either as a final destination or on the way to Mont Maudit or/and Mont Blanc. Years when I climbed it successfully is 2007 (same as when I got in trouble).

Nigel Braggins

Nigel Braggins - Sep 25, 2013 6:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 1997

North West Face PD  Sucess!

Acclimatisation climb for the Matterhorn. A straightforward slog although large crevasses and avalanche prone.


pvnisher - Jul 3, 2013 9:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

easy except for the top  Sucess!

One of the best glacier slogs around. I mean that.


il.rocciatore - Jun 17, 2013 7:22 am

Route Climbed: Contamine - Grisolle Date Climbed: june 2013  Sucess!

After waiting years for good conditions and a chance to climb the Contamine - Grisolle, it finally happened in early june 2013. The first telepherique brought us from Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi and 1 hour (and a small race) later we were the second party to attack the route. Perfect snow conditions in the lower part, a little bit icy in the higher part below the goulotte.

Although several parties (guides, clients and independent parties) ended up together climbing the goulotte, there was a nice and relaxed atmosphere, as it should be.

Continued to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul where we arrived at 12 o'clock. Back in Chamonix at 4o'clock. Very nice trip!


Marty32 - Jan 20, 2013 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012

acclimatisation peak  Sucess!

A great climb especially good for acclimatising. Interesting little climb onto the final summit rock. Fantastic views.


ericvola - Nov 11, 2012 11:41 am Date Climbed: Mar 18, 1972

Boccalate spur  Sucess!

1rst winter ascent with Andrej Mroz (Poland) and Ben Read (USA). 2 bivouacs. Perfect weather but very cold. Over 4 days non stop driving (fast) from Paris.

ZeroFC - Oct 8, 2012 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012

Trois Mont Traverse

Free solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.

Left the refuge slightly before 2AM and summited the Tacul while still dark. A few difficult to spot crevices but nothing too bad.


oldgrey - Sep 24, 2012 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Not sure about the date, very picturesque.


Jake - Sep 14, 2012 6:41 pm

Re: Normal route

Hi, there was three of us so we have probably met :)

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