Kautz Glacier, great fun climb! With Gcap and Vertigo soul.
Nice conditions ...minus the lack of an ice bridge on descent, someone needs to tread lightly man! After completing this Eastern 10hr dog route in light winds & sunshine, I was thinking the fast Fuerer Finger route should be next in the climbing que. Figured our descent time is 1/3 of ascent time due to all the glissading, may want to bring an old air mattress to enjoy this better. Great views from this side of mtn. Friendly bear.
Fantastic weather window. Decided against the DC route and was glad we did. Although the Emmons route was busy and Camp Schruman was full, it was no where near as many people as the DC route on this gorgeous July 4th weekend. Summitted shortly after sunrise to a beautiful summit.
Summitted via Emmons Glacier with base camp near Camp Curtis. Busy holiday weekend meant that we had lots of people to keep us company and encourage me! Crevasses are pretty easy to maneuver around and thanks to that group that fixed a line for us all to use after the snowbridge broke through :) Weather was perfect with an awesome late thunderstorm last night.
Had an alpine start,full moon and wonderful stars.Had a great climb.
We wanted to do the ID but were dissuaded by the climbing ranger's beta. Opting for the DC we pulled out of Muir at 12:40 am and reached the crater rim by 4:45. The DC was a solid snow staircase the whole way. The weather the last 400 feet or so turned into an ice storm whiteout with high winds. We sought shelter in a steam vent. It was pretty hardcore.
I climbed this one with Dick Wimmer and Howie Vander Meer. We left the Muir Hut at about 1:00 am and had decent (but windy) conditions until the top of Disappointment Cleaver where an IMG guided group and another private group were turning around. We pressed on through increasing wind and thick misty clouds and topped out at 8:00 am. Snow was very firm and wind blown on the top 2,000 feet of the mountain. Weather got better on the descent to Camp Muir; however, going down the Muir snow field we were in whiteout conditions. This was Dick and Howie's 48th state highpoint and my 34th.
9 years earlier I had spent the night at the Muir Hut on June 25, 2003. The inside of the hut has been remodeled since that time and I had better weather on that trip from nine years ago.
Summited Rainier 6 or so times in summer '11
Amazing climb, lots of people but we camped away from Sherman, which helped.
Beautiful gruelling climb. Highly reccomend this route instead of the DC
Climb started great on a Friday but come Saturday morning, the random and violent weather pinned myself and my two partners down until Sunday, about 1,500 feet from the summit. Needless to say, after frostbite, sub-zero temperatures, unbelievable wind chill, inability to boil water and diminishing rations...we bailed. Amazing climb, just do it in better weather...like not in the winter during a storm :)
Got up via the DC, fine for my first time. Next attempt I can try something more challenging and interesting.
After climbing Rainier via a few other routes, I finally made it up the DC with the Victoria MEC representatives...great weekend outing!
Disappointment Cleaver Route
Amazing mountain. The climb went well and weather was great. Started at around 1:00 am from camp muir on summit day. All four of us made it to the summit. Very long day though.