Climb started great on a Friday but come Saturday morning, the random and violent weather pinned myself and my two partners down until Sunday, about 1,500 feet from the summit. Needless to say, after frostbite, sub-zero temperatures, unbelievable wind chill, inability to boil water and diminishing rations...we bailed. Amazing climb, just do it in better weather...like not in the winter during a storm :)
Got up via the DC, fine for my first time. Next attempt I can try something more challenging and interesting.
After climbing Rainier via a few other routes, I finally made it up the DC with the Victoria MEC representatives...great weekend outing!
Disappointment Cleaver Route
Amazing mountain. The climb went well and weather was great. Started at around 1:00 am from camp muir on summit day. All four of us made it to the summit. Very long day though.
We really lucked out with the weather. Great mountain! Amazing views of the noctilucent clouds on route to the summit.
Tried to summit Rainier 2 years in a row during Memorial weekend, both times the weather wasnt as favorable.
7/95 - Turned back after a night at Muir climbing solo, due to whiteout conditions
7/07 -- Made it as far as the DC on a Thurs pm window that closed as quickly as it opened
7/09 -- With food for a week, ready to sit out anything, strolled to the top in 6 hrs from Muir in clear, low wind conditions.
Disappointment Cleaver with Ezra Danciu, Matt Poole, and Patrick Collier. Teamed up with Patrick at the Muir Hut who lead our roped team. Deep crevasses and high winds at the summit. Awesome trip!
3 out 5 summits in 2011. Can't wait for next season.
New to SP, just signing the logs. We love Tahoma!
Liberty Ridge 6/16/2011 with a walk off from Emmons Glacier
Ingraham Glacier Direct 6/13/2011
all success. Need to come back for Curtis, Ptarmigan and something on Willis Wall at some point...
After having been shut down on Labor Day weekend two years earlier due to weather (after flying up from LA), we had perfect conditions this weekend on the Cleaver! Left Muir snow field at 1am, summit at sunrise and all to ourselves (girlfriend and I), back by 10:45am. Great Great climb. Even ran into someone I met on Aconcagua two years earlier! Small world!
Absolutely perfect weather on the D.C. route. We took the relaxing route and stayed one night at Camp Muir then went to Ingraham Flats and left about 12:30 a.m. to summit at 5:45 a.m. 25 mph winds and 28 deg. on top but not a cloud. On the way down, the clouds came about 10:30 am so we were glad to have made it up early. We took a friend who had never been up before and he loved it! Another Mountain Climber created. Right on!
Climbed the DC this summer, #2 for me. Very circuitous in august, awesome weather and scenery though!
Finally getting around to signing some log's here, did this in 08, I think. Routine climb with good friend and a guy we had never met before. Beautiful day. Crowded route. Altho referred to as the "dog" route, I think the DC is actually quite interesting, lots of variety.
I now understand why not very many people climb Rainier in a single day. This was much harder than doing it in 2 days. The DC is getting pretty broken up but is still manageable for the time being. There is currently only 1 ladder crossing and 1 sketchy zone which it seems as though there may have been a ladder a few weeks earlier there.
Summited via Disappointment Cleaver with Alpine Ascents group. Started with 8 at Paradise, 2 dropped before Muir, remaining 6 summited just before 6:00AM after leaving Ingraham Flats around 1:00AM. Perfect windless night but very warm on the descent.