High winds kept us on the Ingram glacier for five days and were unable to summit. But was a great time and learned a lot during RMI expedition seminar.
Climbed with an RMI six day expedition. Very demanding physically and so beautiful.
Summit day was a long slog. Skies were clear but it was horribly cold. We were the first ones to summit that day and had it to ourselves. Also paid a visit to Liberty Cap before returning to camp Shurman. I got quite an adrenaline rush on the ascent: I was on a two person rope team and my partner slipped during a breather without control of his axe. He picked up speed extremely fast. I was downslope of him and was able to arrest his fall when the rope went taut - he wasn't very far above a crevasse.
Incredible adventure up the traditional route. Team of 3 up early and hiking when a lightning and thunder storm swept around the mountain. We waited it out low on the cleaver as the storm passed to the south. Beautiful sights almost too close. After it was safe, we continued up and topped out in the sun. Climbed safely down avoiding a small hard snow/ice that nearly hit and RMI team.
CLIMBED VIA INGRAHAM GLACIER/DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER RTE WITH LVMC LED BY ALAN ANDRUNAS AND CHRIS RANSEL
via the Emmons Glacier and one failed attempt from Camp Muir.
One of my favorite summits ever!
Spent a night at Camp Muir, a night at Ingraham Flats, then summited after a 1am start in blowing, icy conditions near the summit.
CLIMBED THE DC ROUTE THEN THE 4 DAYS LATER CLIMBED EMMONS ROUTE THAT WAS A BLAST!!
We spent 3 nights at Muir. The first night a storm came through so we chose to wait. We went for the summit on the second night/morning. After returning from the summit we were just tired enough to enjoy spending a third night at Muir.
Reach the top twice via the Emmons Glacier once during the summer and once during the fall. 2 failed attempts via Camp Muir in the fall.
When I made my sucessful summit climb of Rainier in 1984,
there were no cell phones or i-pods. Our guide was Randy
Sackett. We had to hurry it along past the cleaver. Two
climbers were left behind there. The snow conditions were
for the most part favorable. You never know on Rainier!
Summited via the DC route. A lot of fun. Stayed a Muir after summiting and enjoyed a wonderful sunset and great night of camping.
Nice long hike up. Cold night start but a beautiful clear day.
Summited the DC route
Stayed at Muir Camp the night before. Surprisingly there were only few people in the hut during the Independence weekend. We could hardly see anything around at the summit plateau due to the whiteout.
Kautz July 06 summit
Emmons July 01 summit
Tahoma May 00 unsuccessful due to hot weather
We planned on summiting from the south side (Camp Muir). It was pretty late in the season, so the size of the crevasses made navigation difficult. We got up 2am on summit day and started our ascend at 3am after a good night's sleep in Camp Muir's public shelter. However, we had difficulties finding the trails. From talking to other climbers at CM, I knew that we had to go around the Disappointment Cleaver and reascend on the other (east) side.
I didn't know that we actually had to cross over even further onto Emmons Glacier. So we started wandering around looking for these little red flags but only found old ones that seemed to have been abandoned a while ago. Anyhow, my partner was already pretty tired from the day before after not having slept well for two nights straight and he started complaining about his hurting legs early on. So we decided to turn around noonish and made it back to CM 2.5 hours later. After an hour-long nap we descended
towards Paradise Visitor Center, which was painfully long after a long day on the mountain. We arrived shortly after sunset. I'll try again next year earlier in the season and with more water supplies. Boiling snow is a painfully slow process and the glacier water didn't taste very well either ;)
After a very succesfull year I was bound to have a failed attempt. We tried the Emmons glacier route from Shurman. The forecast was for a storm with terrible winds and the forecast was dead on, but a day early. We made it to about 11,000 feet before the weather turned us around. There is always next year.