North Rib

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
6
Grade:
III

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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North Rib
Created On: Aug 25, 2009
Last Edited On: Aug 25, 2009

Overview

Excellent and accessible rock route on a scenic peak in a spectacular location. The rock is a little grainy, but the route-finding is easy and the peak is worthy. A great alternative when time or weather preempts something like Mt. Goode's North Buttress.

Getting There

You've got two equally enjoyable options:

1. From the South Lake TH, take the Bishop Pass trail to the outlet of Long Lake. Cross the outlet stream right below the lake and work up and right through slabs and light brush to the base of the route. Visibility of the climb this way is limited (you won't see it until immediately below) but a greater percentage of the approach is on a trail.

2. Again, start out on the Bishop Pass Trail, but turn towards the Treasure Lakes after just about a mile. The trail descends, and crosses some drainages. at the second major drainage, head south off the trail to the base of the route. This approach has some more bush-whacking and talus (though not major by any means) but you get multiple good views of the entire route.

Route Description

Start in the prominent "open book" at the base of the rib (the sun/shade line in the picture) for the most direct route. This open book is the crux of the route but is well protected and enjoyable. Follow the crest of the rib (many pitches, difficulty varies) up to where it joins the NW ridge. Cross the NW ridge and take the sandy West Face route to the summit. One can also scramble along the NW ridge at 3rd to 4th class.
North Rib from below

Essential Gear

-Single rack of cams up to 2 inches.
-Rock shoes
-Short rope (50m will be totally adequate)
-Helmet

Descent

Descend the West Face to Treasure Lakes and hike out the trail to the car.

-or-

Continue along the SW ridge of Hurd Peak, over peak 12,182 (essentially reversing this route to "Hurd Col" (between Hurd and "Trapezoid Peak"). From Hurd Col one can descend back to Treasure Lakes or down beneath the N. Face of Goode. One can also continue along the same ridge-line to Trapezoid Peak. Choose your own adventure- these ridges are all spectacular and present entry-level ridge scrambling.