Northeast Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
Class 4
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
Northeast Ridge
Created On: Jun 4, 2007
Last Edited On: Jun 5, 2007

Getting To the Start Of The Route

From the outlet of Long Lake, head west while aiming for open slabs. Keep an eye open for a right angling ramp at the base of prominent broken arete on the northeast side of the peak. Once at the ramp, scramble up to it's terminating point. There, one will see a series of ledges up and left. This is the start of the route.

The NE Arete Route

As a sizable feature to identify it's actual location on the NE side of Hurd, spot the dark rock dike that angles up and right on the northeastern section of Hurd. Approximately 100 yard to the right of this dike is the start to the NE Arete.

From the top of the ramp, climb up and left over a series of ledges and flakes for about 50 feet. Then angle back right and up, climbing corners and ledge while aiming for a left facing turet/mini-buttress above. Continue to the left facing corner (sustained and exposed 4th class moves). Once at the corner, move up and slightly left until one reaches a break over the blunt ridge and can view the North Face. Angle up into a steep gully on the left side of the North Face and aim for a turet 300 feet above. DO NOT climb toward the left skyline toward a buttress on the east side. Simply continue up the gully and head just right of a bowl located above. Scaramble to the turet and climb a series of ledges and steep corners (4th class......some 5th class moves with some exposure). Reach the top of turet and downclimb a move or two of 4th class. Drop down to a sandy gully and head along side a large block (false summit). Hike past this block and around a corner. One will see two more "bumps" after the first block. The true summit is the THIRD "bump" to the south. The descent can be accomplished by heading down the sandy talus slope of the East Slope (Class 2).

Essential Gear

-A good pair of approach shoes and a solid head (if you are comfortable at soloing at this grade)

Those siding on the shoulders of caution:
-Helmet (optional)
-Harness
-30 meter rope
-Light rack (pro to 2")