Paterno NW ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
Bolzano Alto Adige, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer

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Paterno NW ridge
Created On: Sep 18, 2016
Last Edited On: Feb 23, 2018

Overview

Paterno NW ridge

Monte Paterno 2744 m, belonging to the Dolomiti di Sesto and located just in front of the much more famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, is a popular mountain in reason of the existence of different itineraries with facilities (fixed iron ropes), including Via Ferrata De Luca - Innerkofler, Via delle Forcelle and the Normal Route through Forcella Passport, all allowing to reach the top without real difficulty. Another motive of the high attendance of the mountain is the spectacular panorama over Tre Cime di Lavaredo, right in front, and the surrounding Dolomites groups, in addition Paterno has a great historical importance, as the mountain during the Great War was located right on Italian-Austrian border, with numerous remnants of the Great War, including some several tunnel carved in the rock. Another beautiful and interesting itinerary to get the summit is the route running along the North-West ridge, involving a medium grade rock climbing (IV UIAA) and stunning views.

Monte Paterno(2744m)
Monte Paterno

Getting There

Road access

Sunrise light over Cadini di Misurina
Sunrise light over Cadini di Misurina
Lavaredo Southern side from Lago di Misurina
Lavaredo Southern side from Lago di Misurina

The closest village is Misurina m. 1752, lying on the shores of the homonym lake, which can be approached from Trento or Bolzano following the Brennero Motorway - exit Bressanone - and then taking the Val Pusteria road to Dobbiaco; in Dobbiaco leave the main Pusteria road and take on the right the road entering Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. The Lavaredo group can be approached also from Belluno via Longarone, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Passo Tre Croci. From Misurina a private toll–road (23 euros) leads to Auronzo Hut m. 2330, situated at the road’s end in an amazing position below Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces. Parking.

Route Description

North-West Ridge, Via Bolte-Wolf
Summit altitude: m 2744
Difficulty: UIAA IV+ max
Length: 225 m + 100 m on the summit crest, 9 pitches
Exposure: North-West
First ascent: H. Bolte and W. Wolf 1930

Spigolo Giallo
Spigolo Giallo
Tre Cime Northern walls view from Forcella Lavaredo
Tre Cime Northern walls view from Forcella Lavaredo





















A good panoramic climb running along the NW ridge of Paterno, the left one when looking at the wall from Forcella Lavaredo. Classic and pleasant route on good rock with equipped belays and some pegs along the pitches.
Walking approach
From Rifugio Auronzo 2320 m walk on a dirty road to Rifugio Lavaredo 2344 m and from here up to Forcella Lavaredo 2454 m. Take the gravel road towards Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler and turn immediately right into a path that crosses the scree keeping high above the gravel road. The path crosses two spurs of rock and reachs the perpendicular of a rocky gully, that high above the path gets the base of NW ridge, leading to the starting point of the route.

Paterno seen from Forcella Lavaredo
Paterno seen from Forcella Lavaredo

Here you leave the main trail exiting rightward along poor tracks on a steep slope of gravel and grass, becoming gradually more obvious until you join the high gully in the upper part. Climb the rocks in the gully, reaching a small terrace between a boulder and a small pinnacle just at the starting of the route (1 and a half hour from Rif. Auronzo). Sling inside a hole at the start.

On Paterno NW ridge
On Paterno NW ridge
The stunning Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from Paterno NW ridge
The stunning Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from Paterno NW ridge































L1 - Climb the spur directly above the stop, reach a ledge and stop III, 35 m (2 pegs belay)
L2 – To the right of the belay climb a corners-system and flakes to a small shoulder on the ridge , IV, 25 m (belay on an outcrop).
L3 – Climb a narrow chimney (2 pegs and a hole) getting a small platform on the edge of the ridge. Climb a steep grey wall and belay on a ledge, IV, 45 m IV (belay on 3 pegs)
L4 – Directly above the belay climb a small overhang, then a fine wall with good holds and the steps along the ridge, IV, 35 m (belay on 2 pegs)

Laghi dei Piani seen from Paterno summit
Laghi dei Piani seen from Paterno summit
Monte Paterno summit cross
Monte Paterno summit cross



















L5
– A small dihedral and a fine wall lead to a belay under a yellow and steep wall, 20 m IV and III, 20 m (belay on 2 pegs)
L6 – Slanting left on good grey rock turn the edge and climb a fine wall, then returning right on the ridge and belay below another yellow wall IV-, 50 m (belay on 2 pegs).
L7 – Towards right some meters on a small ledge, then climb directly a beautiful grey wall (2 pegs) reaching a summit crest IV, III, 25 m (belay on an outcrop).
L8/9 – Two easy pitches on the crest with outcrops, then on a scree gully lead to the summit with a big wooden cross and plate in memory of Sepp Innerkofler, I and II, 90 m, (belay on outcrops).

Plaque on Paterno in memory of Sepp Innerkofler
Plaque on Paterno in memory of Sepp Innerkofler
Forcella dei Camosci and Croda dei Toni back on the right
Forcella dei Camosci and Croda dei Toni back on the right



















Descent:
along the Normal route to Forcella Camosci and Forcella Passaporto
The descent along Paterno Normal route
The descent along Paterno Normal route

From the summit head to the opposit direction (SE) along a well worn path, then downclimb an easy rock step equipped with fixed ropes, getting Forcella del Camoscio. To return to Forcella Lavaredo descend rightward along a steep trail on a scree slope, then rightwards again follow the beautiful trail along Croda Passaporto war caves and exposed ledges (some fixed ropes), reaching Forcella Passaporto and then Forcella Lavaredo.

Lavaredo North walls from Paterno descent route
Lavaredo North walls from Paterno descent route

Essential Gear

Ropes 2x50, harness and helmet, some friends and slings, some quickdraws.

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing; a fee is due to drive on Lavaredo route (euro 23 in summer 2016).
Monte Paterno is situated inside Northern Dolomites Area, one of the nine areas of the Dolomites in the list of Unesco Natural Sites.
For more info about Dolomites Unesco on SP see the exhaustive article Dolomites living mountains

Huts

Rifugio Auronzo
Rifugio Auronzo

Rifugio Auronzo m. 2330 - Forcella Longeres (CAI Sez. Auronzo)

Other useful huts:
Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler seen from Paterno NW ridge
Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler seen from Paterno NW ridge

Rifugio Locatelli Innerkofler m. 2450

When to climb

Normally the best period goes from middle June to middle September.

Bibliography

Dolomiti Guidebook
IV grado in Dolomiti Guidebook
Dolomiti Orientali Guidebook
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Athesia Editore
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Idea Montagna Editore
“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000

Meteo Forecast








Paterno NW ridge

Route
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Geography

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Parents

Paternkofel/Monte PaternoRoutes