BOLTING ETHICS....WHO MAKES THE CALL?

by **rhyang** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:20 pm

Rick Poedtke wrote:As far as "ICE NINE" on Mendel, with the onset of the WI (Water Ice) & M (Mixed R&I) grading system, I believe that change to the old GRADE 5+ that Mike Cohen and Roy Bishop established back in 67', can be justifiably utilized in order to update an old rating with the modern grading system...concur?

One of my ice partners has apparently led Ice Nine three times and said the chockstone was rated 5.7. I forget what he said about the ice rating, but he usually leads WI4/4+. SP Parker's Eastern Sierra Ice guide says Mendel left is WI4/5.7 so I'm inclined to believe that. btw The guide also has an interesting topo.

by **Dave Daly** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:28 pm

Boy, did I miss alot or were things just carried away a bit? I stopped reading after.....well, I don't even know that....my head is still spinning! :roll:

BTW Mike...thanks! Semper Fi back at you!

Retirement date: Aug 29 2003

My wife is a jarhead too....serving in Iraq. 2 more years before she retires..Wooohooo!!!

by **The Chief** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:43 pm

I agree with that! How about: WI3+/M3 which would accomodate the constantly changing ice conditions and leave the 5.7 for the chockstone move that we all know exists on the "Ghost". When it is in and fat, it brings the grade up to WI4 (the angle increase to 80-90deg) and when sparse, an easy WI3(the angle decreases 60-80deg). So, like the old "+" and "-" variable, this would give it respectable modern accurate grade.
Comments?

by **The Chief** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:46 pm

Dave...sounds like a typical Recon comment as the Operators are turning over the Clean-Up Op over to them and are on their way to the bar for a squirt!!!!! HOOOOYAA!
And your "Skipper" most definitely looks like she will kick your ass when you are out of line,
Shipmate!

by **Dave Daly** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:50 pm

Speaking of recons....

So, your not interested in "reconning" the South Guard in Sequoia because you're afraid of a little poison oak. What kind of SEAL are you?

by **The Chief** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:54 pm

There is a difference between being "Crazy" and "Stupid". P-Oak and "Nuts" don't mix!
Why walk through a "Hot Zone" when you can Night Insert around it and come out (get Extracted) unscathed?
PS: Just took some fresh Pics of Morrison Jr. and Luarel this morning, I will email them to ya and see what ya think!

by **LOWERme** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:59 pm

Morning Rick!

This is the 2nd time you roused me from a sound sleep! I enjoyed the abc's of bolting essay, and I agree, with the exception of (f) for the reasons already stated.

See, as I suspected,. you already knew all of this! Come on in out of the cold Rick! There are some good people in here, you've already traded blows with a few of them. You appear to have the kind of experience, including route info, that a lot of folks here could benefit from.

by **The Chief** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:04 pm

HOOOYAA! That is mighty nice of ya LOWERME. By the way, I am immune to the cold. Ask anyone that has played with me on ice. It's all in the mind! And the mind can be controlled. Push the body and the mind will follow, don't give it the option to revolt.

by **LOWERme** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:35 pm

Well....lookie here....a kinder, gentler Rick already!

Humility!...AH!.........The Smell of it!

by **The Chief** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:47 pm

NO..NO...NO..."Improvise, adapt and overcome and you shall victor in the end!" Flexibility is a virtue which many in today's society have yet to succumb to as it interferes with their ego. Many folks today are afraid of what someone may think of them. Me, I could really give a Rat's ass what folks think about me, but, I do need to be flexible so as not to get kicked out of the sandbox!

by **LOWERme** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:51 pm

I got your number now dude! Welcome to SP!

by **Dave Daly** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:58 pm

C.mon Rick.....it all psychological. Besides, that's one of the cruxes to South Guard......just ask Rene! Hell, we low crawled through the stuff and got cut up by all the manzanita.

What did you say earlier? "Improvise, adapt, and overcome, and you shall victor in the end." DOH! :shock:

Looking forward to the pics. A long approach you say?.....GOOD! I like a challenge!

OOPS! I just checked email.....looks very promising. I'll email you.

by **ecjoe** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:50 am

If it works, don't fix it. Placing fixed anchors in places where there previously were none 'needed' can cause a false sense of security for the unseasoned climber. There will never be a way to make climbs truely safe. There will always be ways to make safe climbers.

"Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment. "
- Barry LePatner

- ec

by **thorgon** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:08 pm

Hey Rick:

Wasn't that Poison Sumac fun at NRG, Hawks Nest State Park?! :oops:

I wonder if there have been any bolts added to our routes at Stone< Two Bolts in 165' 5.9, I'd say that is sporty enough!

"Colorful Character", now that is an UNDERSTATEMENT!

Good times brother,
Thor

by **Rob** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:34 am

So I was delving into the past threads and found this gem!

Who makes the call? According to deleted user, he does

Fun reading!

BOLTING ETHICS....WHO MAKES THE CALL?

Poison Oak.

Re: BOLTING ETHICS....WHO MAKES THE CALL?

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