News of South America

I understand this is an El Nino year for Peru. Does anyone know what that means for weather in the Cordillera Blanca during the climbing season (e.g. June-August)? I've heard that precipitation is likely to be significantly higher than normal.

Anyone been to Huascaran in late July early August? What were the conditions? thanks!

Alpamayo rapid ascent expedition is planned for mid July. This is a private expedition with myself and a very experienced Peruvian Andes climber. Thoughts please regarding limited acclimatization time and other potential pit falls of this itinerary?

1. USA - Lima
2. Lima - Huaraz
3. Huaraz to Corral Camp
4. Corral Camp to base camp
5. base camp to moraine camp
6. moraine camp to col camp
7. col camp to summit to base ...

Peru had been in possible plans for this year but I've been watching the El Nino observations for the last few months, given the bad weather that Peru and Bolivia get with El Ninos. The forecasts have been predicting an El Nino for months now, with gradually greater certainty, but it seems now even more so.

"...The feared El Nino weather pattern will likely hit Peru with a "weak to moderate" intensity starting in April." ...

Has anyone climbed in the Cordillera Blanca or Huascaran National Park in the last year? I've heard rumors that the Peruvian authorities have begun enforcing regulations that require all climbers to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Can anyone confirm or deny?

Thanks

i have the "rutas del Mercedario y montanas del sector" book about climbing Ramada and Mercedario in Argentina. like to know if the walk into the area via los Molles is working without mules and if there are any topi maps available. want to climb those mountains in December

I have a team of 6 climbers looking to climb and ski Cotopaxi and Chimborazo this June. The team is experienced (members have skied Denali, Muztagh Ata, Aconcagua, etc). We would like to book a minimum of services with a company (transportation and basic basecamp support services). I know that you need a guide to climb glaciated peaks in Ecuador, but am wondering if anyone has had recent experience with an inexpensive company that is ...

January 2014 - Aconcagua with AP – Never again

AP stands for Aventuras Patagonicas, a mountain guiding company with offices in the US and Chile. It was recommended to me by someone I trusted. Oh, what a mistake.

On the AP web site they claim the following: “we have the highest success rate, we challenge you to find a guiding company more prepared, we use the latest gear, new or almost new equipment on every ...

Hi,

A couple quick questions -

What sleeping bag temperature range would you recommend for the Illiniza and Cayambe refugios? Would a 20 deg. with puffy be adequate for most? Around New Years. I've read 0-15 deg F on some guiding sites and a buddy mentioned being glad to have a -20, but I think he was in a tent. I'm loaning my -20 to the girl and trying to figure out what I can ...

Any recent experience on whether the vendors at the basecamps prefer USD, or the Argentine peso?