It looks like I will have 1 or 2 days to climb in Yosemite this summer and I'm so excited. But there are so many climbs to look through so I knew you guys would have some good ideas.

I'll be climbing with someone who will be less experienced so nothing harder than 5.8 I think. I'd like a few that are 2-4 pitches but maybe another few that are slightly longer like 5-7 pitches. I don't care if the routes are bolted or not. Both would make me just as happy but for the gear routes I want it to be a very safe climb. A climb with a hike descent or rappel is fine also.

Any recommendations on the rack I would need for the climbs would help too. Supertopo lists a million things you should bring but I doubt I need all that for some easier and shorter climbs. Will I most likely need another rope to rappel or does it really just depend on the climb?

I'd like to climb in the Valley if possible but Tuolumne is good too.

Thanks

you lucky duck!!!
I spent 2 days in tuolumne on the way back from a 3 week grand canyon rafting trip last august, and it was sweet!!! where do you live? cause I also learned on that trip that you can make it from el cap meadows to olympia WA in one day of driving, ~15 hours.
anyway, yosemite valley itself is stifling hot in august, go to tuolumne instead, and even though it's super popular, climb west country on stately pleasure dome. it's 5.7, you will love it if your leading. the 2nd pitch goes up a really fun lieback, slotting nuts in blindly, and then the 3rd has 20 ft. runouts on easy knobby slab, incredibly fun.
http://supertopo.com/rock_climbing/Tuol ... st_Country

if your up for it west crack is a good one, he hardest move is right off the ground, at 5.9. and you can rap off the first pitch if you want with double ropes.
http://supertopo.com/rock_climbing/Tuol ... West_Crack

I can't wait to go back to tuolumne!!!!!

go to yosemite valley and just look at el cap, it's frickin huge. you come around the corner after the tunnel and there it is, blotting out the sky.

I'd love to climb el cap! but I'm thinking I wont make it my first climb in Yosemite.

Both of those look like awesome climbs. I'll probably be going in late June.

I live in S.D. actually.

It would be nice not to be in a crowded area but thats probably a long shot in Yosemite. Are super topos gear recommendations accurate?

Pine Line at the base of El Cap 5.7, pros pretty well. rap from tree. or downclimb easy 5th.

then you can say 'you climbed el cap'




there are other good climbs at the base of el cap too

multi pitch start early, and do something on Manure Pile or like mentioned above Munginella

1000Pks wrote:Some pals of mine did Snake Dike (5.7) on the side of Half Dome, a challenge getting to, but maybe you can impress some tourists by ascending that way, if you are into that.

I was given a strong recommendation not to try leading Snake Dike until I'm a strong 5.9 leader, mostly because of the 100ft runouts (hello road rash?). So that might not be a good idea.

Hit up the specific routes you're interested in on mountainproject.com or supertopo.com. Both will provide good beta. The descent option depends on the climb, and the size of the rack depends on your comfort level. I'm a relative beginner, so the routes I've led below have been with a rack of double C4s 0.3-3, a single set of stoppers #4-#13, and a a few borrowed small TCUs. Bring lots of runners.

I'll second the Grack or Munginella for mellow 3 pitch routes. The Grack is a double-rope rap descent, whereas Munginella is a walk-off. After Six (5.7) / After Seven (5.8 ) is another worthwhile classic (5 short pitches), also a walk-off. I've also tried and enjoyed a couple of moderate routes in Tuolumne (Holdless Horror and Northwest Books, both 5.6, walk-off).

mungeclimber wrote:Pine Line at the base of El Cap 5.7, pros pretty well. rap from tree. or downclimb easy 5th.

then you can say 'you climbed el cap'




there are other good climbs at the base of el cap too

multi pitch start early, and do something on Manure Pile or like mentioned above Munginella

Dood.......can you do that with Castle Rock Spire? Inquiring fish wanna know.

You don't need to be a strong .9 climber to do Snake Dike. .8 leader? Maybe.

Valley: The Grack (center? whatever the splitter crack classic is)- .6; After 7 (.6 or .7- can't remember); Snake Dike (not in "The Valley," but whatever)- .7 (ultra classic), Bishop's Terrace (classic)- .8; Nurdle- (stout) .8, Braille Book (I have yet to complete this; did the 1st pitch, which was great; the rest looks amazing, though)- .8

If I had to recommend one climb .8 or under in Yosemite to someone, though, hands down- Royal Arches. 15 (if you rap') or 16 (if you do N Dome Gully descent- not recommended if it's your first time) pitches. .7. Spectacular. Move fast.

McNamara's pro' rec's are typically good.

Have fun!

When I climbed Snake Dike we swapped leads and I found it quite mellow. I certainly wasn't a 5.8 or 5.9 leader (at least not by Yosemite standards). The first 2 pitches are the most difficult (5.7), but well protected, some friction climbing. The runout part is like 5.3 or so with great holds. You just have to forget the pro (like 1 bolt per pitch) and enjoy the view. Definitely a great climb, just make you sure you start early to avoid crowds.

The Valley is often too hot in late June but if you can get an early start try Commitment and After Seven and Nutcracker .In Tuolumne warm up the first day on The Water Cracks on Lembert Dome and the Great White Book on Stately Pleasure Dome . The second day at first light run do not walk to Fairview Dome and get on the Regular Route . It is a beautiful route . Have a great trip !

I did Snake Dike with Kris, err, Zzyzx in Sept. 2006 and neither of us were 5.9 leaders at the time. He led the odd-numbered pitches and I led the rest. There is a free topo here. The first two pitches are the hardest .. the next six are easy fifth class at best. If you can lead 5.7 slab and solo fourth and easy fifth in the mountains then you should have no trouble with Snake Dike. IMO the hardest move is a 5.7 slab traverse on the second pitch, which is protected by a bolt.

Start early, the route attracts crowds. We were first in line, but immediately ten people showed up behind us.

After Six is more like 5.7, and a lot of folks consider it a pretty stiff 5.7 -- some might even call it an easy 5.8. IMO The easiest way up Manure Pile Buttress is the first pitch of CS Concerto, then traverse to the upper pitches of After Seven -- this is pretty much 5.6 or easier.

Another nice 5.7 is Sloth Wall on Knob Hill. The first pitch of Jam Crack is nice for working on hand crack skills. Search supertopo for a newly-bolted area called The Cookie Sheet -- there are some fun 5.7 - 5.8 multipitch slab routes.

I don't go to Yosemite Valley in the summer because it's usually too hot -- better in the spring and fall. Tuolumne Meadows is nice in July thru early Sept. after 120 opens.

I know it will be busy but is the key to minizing crowds just starting really early?
Right now I think I'll be trying Munginella and one other climb

On many of these routes you can only go one at a time. So if there is another party on the route already, you just have to wait your turn. The more popular routes can often have a line of people ahead of you. The early bird gets the worm !

Munginella is popular, and it's not uncommon to have to wait for 2 or 3 other parties ahead. Remember to wear helmets -- the area above has a lot of loose rocks, and n00bs often drop stuff.

So on a multipitch route in a crowded area is it considered rude to start on the first pitch of another party is on the third or something?

Also on super topo they always suggest stoppers and peanuts. Is there really a difference or are they just trying to get you to buy two different types?

mbmsfreerider wrote:So on a multipitch route in a crowded area is it considered rude to start on the first pitch of another party is on the third or something?

Also on super topo they always suggest stoppers and peanuts. Is there really a difference or are they just trying to get you to buy two different types?

If you have to ask questions like these I would suggest you climb with someone more experience first, for your own safety. If you don't like this option then just observe what others are doing (assuming they know what they are doing) and use your own judgment.