douc wrote:Where do you pick up the climbing permit for Shasta? I hear that you need one above 10,000 ft.? Can you get one at the Fifth season store? Also is it a good idea to have a partner as well as use climbing harnesses on routes? It looks like there are some massive crevasses on the mountain. Douc

The USFS has a great website that should answer most of your questions -

http://shastaavalanche.org/

There is a climbing advisory, avalanche advisory, weather forecast and lots of other info.

The Ranger station is right there in the tiny town of Shasta. Only two blocks from the Fifth Season sports store. The ranger station has plenty of information, a very short video to watch.

The lady ranger gave very useful route advice.

I've climbed other mountains, but Mt. Shasta's Avalance Glutch did not seem steep nor dangerous. Crampons... YES, ropes... no, ice axe... sounds good, helmet... maybe, a partner... YES. If one slips... there really isn't any dangerous terrain to slide into... e.g. no crevasses, no rocks, no cliffs.

I would solo this route - if others are around.

billisfree wrote:helmet... maybe

Helmet...definetely! You do want to wear a helmet on the Avalanche Gulch route since there is a danger of rockfall which can vary depending on condition and season but every year people get smacked on the head. Having said that, it is not really dangerous and I would solo it too. There are always people on that route and when we were there a few years back, there even were two rangers on the route.

Have fun and post a TR!

Helmet in Avalanche Gulch? Absolutely Positively YES!! Just ask this guy.

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/267603/winter-rescue-on-mt-shasta.html

Umm, maybe its me but if you don't have a partner, do you need a harness ?? Just asking... Scott