Greetings fellow climbers,
gotta make this quick- @ a bar w/ wi-fi right now while getting a new tire put on, & after this is questionable when I'll have internet again.
So... Forbidden Peak, W ridge.
Approach:
do the route as a day climb, or backpack in, climb next day, then out day 3??
Is the approach obvious?
Need permits at the ranger station? Is there a quota? Do they have some kind of lottery system if you don't already have a reservation to Boston Basin (like Leavenworth for the Enchantments??) Hoping to be at the Marblemount ranger station when they open tomorrow morning at 7.
Would it be a good idea to bring an axe (1x) + a tech tool (x1) each for the approach couloir? Or just an axe?? How about pickets for pro'? How steep does this thing get? Anybody been up there recently? Any tricky moats/'schrunds to navigate to get onto the ridge proper?
Descent:
Best way to descend rapp'ing the route/downclimbing? Then downclimbing (or rapp'ing) the couloir? Or are the NE (?) ledges the better way to go?
Any misc. beta appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
-diggler