Why are you gluing in bolts?????

POWERS 5pc and all FIXE's require absolutely no glue.

Gluing in any bolt prevents future maintenance and renders them virtually impossible to be extracted.

PS: The ONLY bolts requiring any glue are Petzl's Gue In's Batinox and Collinox and both come with their appropriate glue ampoule's and should only be utilized in Limestone environments.

If you have to ask, you can't just go slamming in bolts. You'll screw up, put bolts in the wrong spots, over bolt, and most likely screw up access in sensitive areas.

Put the drill down noob. I actually suspect you're a troll, but whatever.

brokesomeribs wrote:...and most likely screw up access in sensitive areas.

He's from New Zealand.

MoapaPk wrote:

brokesomeribs wrote:...and most likely screw up access in sensitive areas.

He's from New Zealand.

There are no access issues in NZ?

brokesomeribs wrote:

MoapaPk wrote:

brokesomeribs wrote:...and most likely screw up access in sensitive areas.

He's from New Zealand.

There are no access issues in NZ?

http://alpineclub.org.nz/club/bolting

It's a different world. Note the gluing recommendations, the heavy dependence on hardware-store type gear.

The Chief wrote:Why are you gluing in bolts?????

POWERS 5pc and all FIXE's require absolutely no glue.

Gluing in any bolt prevents future maintenance and renders them virtually impossible to be extracted.

PS: The ONLY bolts requiring any glue are Petzl's Gue In's Batinox and Collinox and both come with their appropriate glue ampoule's and should only be utilized in Limestone environments.

Powers and Hilti both make glue-in bolts (for use in building construction) and they come with the appropriate glue.

I wonder which one was used on that tunnel in Boston?

Buz Groshong wrote:Powers and Hilti both make glue-in bolts (for use in building construction) and they come with the appropriate glue.

I wonder which one was used on that tunnel in Boston?

"for use in building construction"


Anyone who applies these to a climbing situ needs to revisit the manu's application protocol.

Both type that I originally posted are intended for the climbing enviro's. FIXE is strictly designed and manu'd for the climbing world application.

Bottom line, utilize anchoring equipment that is climbing specific and per the manu's placement instructions/guidelines. If you do not have a fkn clue as to how to place this stuff properly and per the manu's protocols, then DON'T. It will keep the climbing world safer and as noted, prevent ACCESS issues from brewing, regardless of location on this planet.

The Chief wrote:

Buz Groshong wrote:Powers and Hilti both make glue-in bolts (for use in building construction) and they come with the appropriate glue.

I wonder which one was used on that tunnel in Boston?

"for use in building construction"


Anyone who applies these to a climbing situ needs to revisit the manu's application protocol.

Both type that I originally posted are intended for the climbing enviro's. FIXE is strictly designed and manu'd for the climbing world application.

Bottom line, utilize anchoring equipment that is climbing specific and per the manu's placement instructions/guidelines. If you do not have a fkn clue as to how to place this stuff properly and per the manu's protocols, then DON'T. It will keep the climbing world safer and as noted, prevent ACCESS issues from brewing, regardless of location on this planet.

Absolutely!

By the way, the comment about the Boston tunnel was about bolts that failed because the wrong adhesive was used (and because the design was idiotic).

Buz Groshong wrote:By the way, the comment about the Boston tunnel was about bolts that failed because the wrong adhesive was used (and because the design was idiotic).

http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/adhesivebolts.htm

I'm not a bolter, nor do I play one on TV. However, a friend (with the experience and gear) has volunteered to place one bolt in a soft desert volcanic tower, where the natural protection is about to tear free (even though the tower is climbed just once every 3 years). Supposedly, glue-in bolts are the strongest for this type of application.

But I'm still looking for a sun-tolerant yet easily-removed alternative.

The Chief wrote:Why are you gluing in bolts?????

POWERS 5pc and all FIXE's require absolutely no glue.

Gluing in any bolt prevents future maintenance and renders them virtually impossible to be extracted.

PS: The ONLY bolts requiring any glue are Petzl's Gue In's Batinox and Collinox and both come with their appropriate glue ampoule's and should only be utilized in Limestone environments.

I understand your concern regarding future maintenance Chief and I'm only asking questions here to better my understanding but doesn't FIXE also sell a glue in bolt which they claim are the strongest anchors? Is future maintenance a requirement with these?

mattski wrote:its all good how else do u climb up 10m+ blank faces

Run it out a bit?

Unless it's at ground level, then top rope.

knoback wrote:

MoapaPk wrote:But I'm still looking for a sun-tolerant yet easily-removed alternative.

Have you looked into removable bolts?

I'm actually thinking about 3/16" stainless steel cable.

Brad Marshall wrote:

The Chief wrote:Why are you gluing in bolts?????

POWERS 5pc and all FIXE's require absolutely no glue.

Gluing in any bolt prevents future maintenance and renders them virtually impossible to be extracted.

PS: The ONLY bolts requiring any glue are Petzl's Gue In's Batinox and Collinox and both come with their appropriate glue ampoule's and should only be utilized in Limestone environments.

I understand your concern regarding future maintenance Chief and I'm only asking questions here to better my understanding but doesn't FIXE also sell a glue in bolt which they claim are the strongest anchors? Is future maintenance a requirement with these?

Again, they are intended for Limestone and can be used in Tuff (Volcanic)..

FIXE 8MM Glue In Shear = 7800lbs

POWERS 1/2" X 3 " SS Shear = 9200lbs.
I guarantee ya that FIXE Glue In 8mm's are no where near as strong a Powers 1/2" X 3" Stainless Steel Five Piece in any other type rock... i.e. Granite and Sandstone.