Ti' Punch

Page Type
Route
Location:
Queyras/Piemonte, France/Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
TD inf., UIAA VI
Rock Difficulty:
5.10a (YDS)

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
Ti' Punch
Created On: Jul 14, 2011
Last Edited On: Feb 22, 2018

Overview


Ti' Punch


Punta Roma is a massive peak standing out on the main watershed on Italy-France border, between Po valley and Guil Valley; it's one of the best known mountains in the Monviso Group, lying to the South of the adjacent Punta Udine, from which Punta Roma is joined by a long and notched ridge, and to the North of Punta Gastaldi.

A rest for admiring the King of Stone
A rest for admiring the King of Stone


Punta Roma has a lot of interesting routes; the hardest ones are located on the shady and large West face on the French side.
Amongst these latter a very interesting and pleasant route is just "Ti'Punch", running on excellent “gabbro”, a kind of rock similar to the gneiss. Another fine easier route on the same West face is “Trois Rivieres”. Punta Roma West face can be reached both from Italian side and French one. It’s a cold “milieu”, as a matter of fact the wall gets the sun at 11 o’clock at the height of summer.

Punta Roma West Face

The wide Punta Roma West face

Getting There

 

Punta Roma - Porcieroles Lake

Porcieroles Lake

 

Monte Viso West face at sunset

Monviso West face at sunset seen from Refuge du Viso

Road access

ITALIAN SIDE: From Torino to Saluzzo, then follow Po Valley reaching Paesana, Crissolo and Pian del Re, where the road ends.

FRENCH SIDE: From Guillestre follow D902 towards Queyras – otherwise you can approach from Briancon via the Izoard Col - reaching Chateau Queyras, Abries and Ristolas; from Ristolas take an unsurfaced road leading to Roche Ecroulèe parking m. 1787. The acces by car is not allowed after Roche Ecroulèe.

Huts approach

GIACOLETTI HUT - From Pian del Re m. 2020 follow the path to Quintino Sella Hut (V13 and GTA), reaching Fiorenza Lake. After the lake, at 2310 m., leave this path and follow towards right the path to Giacoletti Hut (V14), reaching a new lake, named Chiaretto Lake. After gaining Viso Pass m. 2650 – a spectacular view over Viso Great Lake – the path leads to the hut (2 hours and a half from Pian del Re).

VISO HUT - From Roche Ecroulèe follow by walk the road to Belvedere du Viso m. 2133. From here follow the path rising towards East until a forking at 2437 mt., where you must turn to right following a mainly level path towards the well evident hut (2 hours and 45 minutes from Roche Ecroulèe).

Ti'Punch report

Ti'Punch report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: m. 3070
Difficulty: TD inf., F6a max
Equipment: bolts
Climbing length: 300 mt.
Exposure: W
First ascent: Richard Clermont – Sylvain Pusnel 1996
Starting point: Pian del Re (Italy) m. 2020 (parking) or Rocheè Ecroulèe (France) m. 1787 (parking).

Punta Roma - Ti  Punch topo

Ti' Punch topo route

Approach from Viso Hut - Don’t take the path heading towards SSE to Valant Col, but follow a less obvious track heading to East as far as Porcieroles Lake.
From the lake don’t carry on towards Porco Gully, but turn to right rising along slabs and stones heading to the obvious high serrated W face of Punta Roma. Starting point is on the left-hand side of the face; last route on the left is “Trois Rivieres”. Ti’ Punch start about 60 mt. on the right of “Trois Rivieres” and on the left of a great steep black zone, rising along some easy steps just below a white quartz intrusion.

Cows grazing at Monviso feet
Approaching Refuge du Viso

Approach from Giacoletti Hut - Follow Porc Gully (Couloir del Porco) and via ferrata, reaching the pass. Go down to Porcieroles Lake. From here follow the previous approach.

Route report

L1 – Little steps and walls towards the white quartz intrusion, then a corners’ line ligthly slanting towards right; a steeper shallow corner – crux move – leads to a belay. 4c, then 6a
L2 - Climb a corner, then leave it and climb towards right a fine slab with cracks. 5b

Punta Roma Ti' Punch Route
Climbing on Ti' Punch

L3 - Easier rocks and some slabs lead to a steep wall. Climb it with fine movements. 6a
L4 – A short pillar (short 5c “bloc”), then a smooth little overhang; slantways towards right climb some slabs with thin cracks becoming steeper in upper section. Belay below an orange corner. 5c, then 4b and 5b.
L5 - Climb the corner’s right face, then some slabs and little walls slantways towards right. 5b

Punta Roma Ti' Punch ending pitch
Punta Roma Ti' Punch ending pitch

L6 - A short wall, then a steep slab with a crack. Climb the crack on the right-hand side of the pillar’s edge, then a steep wall. 5c+
L7 – A short steep chimney-crack leads to some steps and to a belay below summital ridge. 4c, then 3a.
L8 – Along the summit ridge towards left to reach Italian summit (Summit Book and Mary’s statue) 3a.

On Punta Roma summit with Monte Viso
On Punta Roma summit with Monte Viso

Descent to the Italian side: along SE Italian Normal Route (2b) to Giacoletti Hut.

Descent to the French side: from Italian summit get back along the summit ridge to last belay. From here rappel the route.

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 3-9, friends 1-3, ten quickdraws

Red Tape

Punta Roma  map

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Huts

Giacoletti Hut
Rifugio Giacoletti

Rifugio Giacoletti 2741 m - CAI (Italian Alpine Club - Barge), guardian Andrea Sorbino, open from 15-6 to 15-9


    

Refuge du Viso with Monviso West Face
Refuge du Viso with Monviso West Face

- Refuge du Viso 2460 m - CAF (French Alpine Club - Briancon),guardian J. Bellier-Fouchard, open from 15-6 to 15-9

When to climb

Punta Roma italian summit
Punta Roma italian summit

Best months are July, August and September.

Meteo

METEO REGIONE PIEMONTE

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Guidebooks and maps

Escalade en Queyras entre France et Italie

Guidebooks

“Monte Viso – Alpi Cozie Meridionali” by Michelangelo Bruno – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia
“Pays du Viso – Escalade en Queyras entre France et Italie” by Sylvain Pusnel and Guillaume Vallot

Monviso Valle Varaita-Po-Pellice IGC  map
Monviso Valle Varaita-Po-Pellice IGC map

Maps

"Monviso-Valle Varaita-Valle Po-Valle Pellice" - IGC sheet 106 1:25000

Monte Viso countries

Monte Viso countries - A puppy of Ibex
Chateau en Queyras
Pais du Queyras
Queyras' sun-dial