Bucket Land, 5.9-5.10a

Overview/Approach

(photos were lost on this one, but the coordinates are accurate and the routes are easy to find via the description)

Building Blocks boasts the largest number of routes per square inch of any formation at the City of Rocks.  It is far from the largest formation in the Reserve, but is home to 22 published routes as of 2018, many of which approach or exceed 100’ in height.  It sits by itself out in the open meadows of what the guide calls North Creek.   It is best approached by the Circle Creek trail head and on most days you can expect to have it to yourself.  A few routes to add to the destination of Building Blocks are located across (north side) the trail on a wall named Bucket Land.  Only three routes were published as of 2018.  It is a long wall but is rarely visited. There is little evidence of any climbers trail leading up to it nor along its base.  In 2018, I did step (my partners will tell you I jumped and jumped high)  over a rattler along the base at the right end of the west face.  There are no bolts on the formation which is kind of cool (for the City which is inundated with them).  Any established raps as of 2018 are slung features.

Bucket Land, 5.10a**, had the more interesting climbing of the three via its cruxy (at the grade) and fun start traversing in and pulling a roof.  Pine-tina, 5.10a*, has a full on 5.11+ overhung variation we added.  There is a slung rap or two but you can find your way off this formation via a variety of options.

A pleasant, level and easy approach.  Park at the Circle Creek trailhead.  Hike through the gate out the trailhead and follow the road to another cattle gate, go through it and continue for the upper creek area.  Building Blocks will be a standalone formation (with a much shorter sub formation in front of it) on the left side of the road.  It was signed in 2018.  20 minutes +/-.  Bucket Land is almost directly across the trail (NW).  The wall with the routes located on it faces west and is found in a vegetated corridor of sorts.

Routes Listed Right to Left on Approach, Facing the West Wall

Jug City- 80’-5.9**/ Cool start at the grade, but the majority of the route is 5th class to the top.  Shared slung block with Bucket Land to the left for a rap.  All gear.  No bolts on this formation.  Quite a bit of moss and chossy in places.  Rattlesnake near the base in June, 2018.  Single rack to C4#2.  Dow

Bucket Land- 80’-5.10a**/ Very good start.  The guide is incorrect in claiming there is a “thrilling finish”.  It has a fantastic start pushing the grade and then is well below the grade to the shared slung block with Jug City.  Traverse in from the right via slab.  Place an essential C4#.75 in a pocket.  Under cling up to pulling the roof at a finger crack.  Mantel up on a jug via your left hand, stem out right and pull the roof with the finger crack.  The crack is chossy and therefore the gear a bit suspect.  Not for the budding leader at his/her limit.  The rest of the route after the roof is well below the grade.  Single rack to C4#2.  Dow

Pine-tina- 60’-5.10a*/ The obvious wide crack on the left side of the formation with a small pine tree growing out of it (thus the name).  Climb smaller cracks on varnished rock on the right side of the wide crack.  Continue up and traverse slightly left on a ledge to take on an easy roof pull.  Chossy at the base of the roof, but big jugs to get into the crack above.  Gear belay.  Downclimb the backside.  Single rack to C4#2.  We added a variation that we named Sext up V8, 5.11+.  Traverse further left and pull the overhung finger splitter.  Chossy and athletic climbing.  Dow