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Parking Lot Rock, 5.6-5.12c
Mountain/Rock

Parking Lot Rock, 5.6-5.12c

 
Parking Lot Rock, 5.6-5.12c

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.08360°N / 113.72268°W

Object Title: Parking Lot Rock, 5.6-5.12c

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6400 ft / 1951 m

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jun 18, 2012 / Jun 6, 2013

Object ID: 795784

Hits: 1119 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

 
Batwings, 5.8+
Batwings, 5.8+

Parking Lot Rock is one of the more popular stones at City of Rocks. Two primary reasons for its popularity: Quick access (is there any other kind at the City?) and the ability to climb both the east and west faces allowing you to chase shade or sun all day. Many features at the City do not have walls open and/or as much selection to climb on both sides. Some of the more popular lines are Funky Bolt (5.9+), Batwings (5.8+) and Thin Slice (5.10a). Eleven select routes scatter the broad east face overlooking the beautiful canyon below and six select routes are located mostly on the north end of the west face, facing the parking area itself.

Route Description(s)

 
Beauty and the Beast, 5.10a
 
 
Funky Bolts, 5.9+
 
 
Funky Bolt, 5.9+
 
 
Beauty and Beast, 5.10a
 
 
Batwings, 5.8+
 

WEST FACE
Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Delay of Game- 5.8/

  • Norma’s Book- 5.6/
  • The route starts at a tunnel at the base of the prominent chimney. Move through the tunnel (as opposed to climbing over the flake) and step up. Protection is good in side cracks. Stemming and a final awkward mantle move bring you to the beginning of the dihedral (inside the chimney). Move up the dihedral on bomber jugs to the notch at the top of the formation. Belay on gear at the top. Belay each other down to the (climber's) left toward the bolted anchor atop Delay of Game. Rap with two 60 m ropes (not sure if two 50m are sufficient - probably). Radek

  • Suburban Sprawl- 5.8+R/

  • Batwings- 5.8+/
  • One of the more challenging 5.8's I have climbed anywhere I suppose. It was hot as hell. Avoid in the sun, you will be shocked at how reflective this wall can be. I only did so to avoid all the folks on the shady routes via a crowded Saturday. The early crux move, “scary” is the word used in the Falcon guide, is well protected by a .4 BD C4 horizontal placement. The dihedral is a pleasure, however, when it peters out, pro becomes a luxury. A .5" Mastercam was critical in a pod before you hit 35' of slab run out. Straight up scares the hell out of you!....just traverse left, then back right following well defined, but not absolute, features. Very good route, one of the best if not the best for the grade at the City. Double rope rap and a full rack with extra hand pieces. Dow

  • Batwings Direct- 5.10a/
  • (a bolted start that misses the fun crux move mentioned above)

  • No Parking- 5.10c/

  • EAST FACE
    Left to Right as you face the Wall

  • Tow Away Zone- 5.10b/
  • Tough slab beginning leads to an easy hand crack. One bolt and a double 00 Metolius Master Cam protected the unique start, but it could use another bolt. Stay right of the overhang above and use the under-clings and stem your way through the difficulties. Dow

  • Just Another Pretty Face- 5.10d/

  • Beauty and the Beast- 5.10a/
  • Good Route. The crux is the slab traverse from the top of the short and shallow chimney left to the dihedral. I used a C4 #5 on the chimney and it is a bit more challenging than it looks. The slab is protected with a bolt and a piece you can slip in before committing all the way over to the dihedral. The dihedral offers an easy and pleasant finish for the grade. Standard rack with a C4 #5, single rope rap. Dow

  • Spud Meets Hammerhead- 5.11c/

  • Funky Bolt- 5.9+/
  • Very good route with a solid mid height challenge (guidebook calls it 5.9+++) through a bulge. Mostly a gear route, starts with a flake. During a void crack section through the small roof there are two, still funky (2012), bolts. Wide stemming gets you through this section in style. Standard rack. Double rope rap, or catch a mid-station (Spud). Dow

  • No Name- 5.11a/

  • Stress Fracture- 5.10b/
  • I placed a small master cam and then stemmed and reached through the crux move off the deck to find a hand jam. Important to get the right hand versus left hand in to make the pull through the bulge on the granular granite crack. Then off to the beautiful roof. Once underneath it, traverse left via foot edges (C4 #6 and #5 protect it well) to the pull through via a shoulder deep fist jzm. Then on to more great crack until the crack terminates, then traverse left on easy slab to a slung feature, a 200' pitch. Dow

  • Bombs over Tripoli- 5.12a/

  • Inspiration or Perspiration- 5.12c/

  • Thin Slice- 5.10a/
  • This is one of the better moderate trad climbs at the City. In fact, 2nd only to Animal Crack for me. Classic finger crack like you would see at Jtree with large elephant ear patina jugs to assist. Place pro at will. Aesthetic, long and sustained, rarely does single pitch cracking get any better than this. A few cruxes are located in the later half of the climb, where the positive features leave you to deal with the crack direct. I specifically remember palming out right to place a piece and then transition back into the crack, towards the end. Dow

  • Cairo- 5.11a/
  • External Links

  • City of Rocks National Reserve
  • Castle Rocks State Park
  • Rock City, the place for beers

    Images

    Thin SliceThin SliceBat WingsParking Lot RockBeauty and the Beast, 5.10aFunky Bolts, 5.9+Beauty and the Beast, 5.10a
    Beauty and Beast, 5.10aBatwings, 5.8+Funky Bolt, 5.9+Funky Bolt, 5.9Beauty and the Beast, 5.10aBatwings, 5.8+Batwings, 5.8+