White Lightning

Overview/Approach

 
White Lightning is the name of the lone route found on a distinguishable northwest facing wall located between the North Twin Sister and the Weather Wall high on the ridge line that runs north from the Twin Sisters at the City of Rocks. Several of these ridge features are on private lands and White Lightning is one of them. However, access to Yellow Wall, Weather Wall, White Lightning, etc., has yet to be impeded or disallowed by the private land owner/lessee (2014). White Lightning is a fantastic route (one of the best 5.10- trad pitches in the park) to combine with the ultra-classic Yellow Wall route (5.9). White Lightning gets morning shade and Yellow Wall gets afternoon shade. Reid Dowdle established White Lightning in 1979.
 
White Lightning can best be approached by circumventing the South Twin to the west as though heading for the Yellow Wall. Soon after you enter its shadow and/or pass the South Sister, the White Lightning Wall with its unique and distinguishable (photo) left facing corner (splitting it down the middle) comes into view high on the ridge that extends north from the North Sister. Aim for a slabby gully that runs up to the left side. Sport, gym and urban climbers beware, you need to gain several hundred feet of elevation.

Route Description(s)

NORTHWEST FACE

White Lightning- 5.10a***/

Start up the beautiful hand crack in the left-facing corner via deep jams. Jam out left into the first (larger) roof and short sling a C4#1 to avoid a potential fall back into the corner. Lay-back (crux move of the pitch) over the roof to a stance. Follow the flaring crack above over the second roof and follow the finger corner up to easier ground. Dow

Descent

You can scramble down climber’s right. You can set a top rope (70m rope) for others with several medium pieces up and left on top of the formation.

Essential Gear

This is a well shaded route in early July until early afternoon. Being high on the ridge, White Lightning is a good summer objective to climb in the morning and combine with climbing the classic Yellow Wall route in the afternoon. Of course it is easy to add in more climbing on the Yellow Wall (King of Suede, 5.10c, and Wired Russets, 5.9, would be recommendations). Single rack to C4#3 should suffice for the competent leader on White Lightning. Bring several slings for direction under the roof. 70m rope to top rope the route on gear.

Images

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