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Great Wall, 5.9-5.10d
Mountain/Rock

Great Wall, 5.9-5.10d

 
Great Wall, 5.9-5.10d

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Idaho, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 42.09900°N / 113.709°W

Object Title: Great Wall, 5.9-5.10d

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 6000 ft / 1829 m

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jun 26, 2013 / Jun 26, 2013

Object ID: 854107

Hits: 568 

Page Score: 75.62%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Three Star Corner- 5.10a
Jorge Urioste climbing 5.10 at 76 (Three Star Corner)

The most beautiful hiking at the City of Rocks can be found in what Bingham labels the North Fork Circle Creek area. One of the larger faces at the City is named Steinfell’s Dome which is accessed via a separate and dead end road named Circle Creek Overlook. This road is a right hand turn before you make the main City of Rocks right hand turn. It is well signed and this trailhead services both the Steinfell area as well as the outback objectives to the east of the main reserve. Stripe Rock, the Great Wall and Tahitian Wall are several of the main climbing areas, but the rock croppings laid out in these huge flowering meadows are vast and varied. Stripe Rock centers the area and gaining its summit gives you a solid scouting opportunity to determine where you are going next.
 
Great Wall
South End

Great Wall and Grey Wall are to the north of Stripe. Great Wall is actually the smaller of the two and is further west parallel to Grey. What drew me to this remote feature at the City was a route named Three Star Corner (5.10a). Bingham gives this trad route the maximum stars in his local guide and quotes someone as saying “one of the best crack pitches in the park”. Well that is an overstatement to say the least but it was an enjoyable corner climb, not really a crack/splitter climb, short and not near worth the praise given above. It did not deserve three stars either. It should be named “two star corner” at most. There was no trail to the base of this climb and I was cleaning the corner on lead, leading me to suspect it is rarely climbed. There are supposedly several good 5.9 tall and bolted run-out routes to the left on the main face (west) but I have not explored them to date.

Park at the Circle Creek Overlook Trailhead at City of Rocks. Follow the road beyond the gate northwest from the parking area. Take a left through another gate following the road through huge meadows. Continue west and soon you will easily make out Stripe Rock as the dome shaped feature with a huge dike running up its left side (the “stripe). Turn right after Bucket Land (all well signed in 2013) and proceed through another gate at the creek. Split right bypassing Stripe’s access across the creek and follow the trail on the right side of the creek. Great Wall is the lower wall and Grey Wall is the upper one. To reach Three Star Corner, locate the huge triangle cut out on the lower right face. Aim through the burnt out forest to the base of this large roof. Three Star Corner climbs the right facing corner up the left side of this feature (not right side as Bingham states) . The other routes can be accessed by following the base of the wall left (north).

Route Description(s)

    West Face
    Routes Listed Right to Left as you face (approach) the Wall's
    Right Shoulder

  • Three Star Corner- 5.10a***/
  • ”One of the best crack pitches in the park” is not a proper assessment neither is Bingham’s three stars. This is worth two stars at most and barely worth the effort to hike up to. It is a corner, not a splitter, and thus barely classifies as a "crack" climb. It is made up of a unique multi-roofed corner with mostly finger jams and laybacks at the cruxes, but is also relatively short for all the praise in the guide. It was quite dirty when I climbed and had no discernible trail leading up to it. I speculate it is rarely climbed. Most of the other routes on the Great Wall (which is remote by the City standards) are bolted 5.9’s, therefore this (stout for the grade) 5.10 trad route gets little notice. Finding it is easy, look for the huge triangular roof on the far right shoulder of the Great Wall. Walk straight up to it. The rap hangers are a bit hard to see. The crux is close to the deck, a tight dirty finger corner. The upper part is really nice finger jams. The final slab traverse right to the anchor might feel a bit exposed for someone lacking slab skills. Dow

  • Waterstreak- 5.10a*/


  • Main Wall

  • Modelo- 5.9**/


  • Yahoo- 5.9**/


  • Ye-Haw- 5.9+R*/


  • Old Route- 5.9***/

Images

Three Star Corner- 5.10aThree Star Corner- 5.10aThree Star Corner- 5.10aGreat WallGreat Wall