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Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)
Route

Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)

 
Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43738°N / 13.73137°E

Object Title: Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)

Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: II/2-3, 200 mtrs

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Branko

Created/Edited: Feb 2, 2010 / Jan 26, 2011

Object ID: 593765

Hits: 2797 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

Butinarjeva grapa is a short winter alpine climbing route in the eastern face of Mojstrovka mountain at Julian Alps. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.
 
Butinarjeva ravine.<br />
 Foto:...
Bor - Butinarjeva grapa
 
Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)
Butinarjeva ravine

Approach

 
Vrsic pass...
Vrsic pass

The starting point for Butinarjeva ravine route is Vrsic pass (1.611 mtrs) at the heart of Julian Alps, situated some 12 kilometers south of Kranjska Gora.

More info about how to get there you can find on Mojstrovka main page.

Route description

 
Climbing at Butinarjeva ravine
Alpine climbing at Butinarjeva grapa
 
Vršić
Kepe - First part of Butinarjeva grapa

From the very top of Vrsic pass go strait up to the end of snowfield below the cliffs of southern ridge, called Grebenec. Butinarjeva ravine is the first ravine right of the Vratca notch where normal (south) route goes between the cliffs.

First part of the ravine is easiest - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steep and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. At about 2/3 of the route you will reach small rock barrier (good for making anchors). From here you will have to climb the steepest part of this route (some 10-15 mtrs) that is steep up to 70°. After that continue straight up towards the top of Grebenec ridge.


Descent

Best way to descent back to Vrsic pass is via normal (south) route.
More info on Mojstrovka southern route.


Views

 
Fantastic view from...
Škrlatica & Prisojnik from Grebenec ridge

From the ravine itself Martuljek group and Prisojnik are visible all the time. Once you exit the ravine, on top of Grebenec ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards Trenta valley, Kanjavec, Veliko Spicje, Bavski Grintavec, Velika and Mala Mojstrovka.


Essential gear

Good mountaineering shoes, helmet, ice axes, crampons and rope.

Red tape

Sometimes during winter time road for Vrsic pass can be closed for cars, therefore you have to inform yourself accordingly.
Butinarjeva grapa (ravine)
Butinarjeva ravine

Images