Butinarjeva grapa is a short winter alpine climbing route in the eastern face of Mojstrovka mountain at Julian Alps. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.

Bor - Butinarjeva grapa

Butinarjeva ravine

Approach

Vrsic pass

The starting point for Butinarjeva ravine route is Vrsic pass (1.611 mtrs) at the heart of Julian Alps, situated some 12 kilometers south of Kranjska Gora.

More info about how to get there you can find on Mojstrovka main page.

Route description

Alpine climbing at Butinarjeva grapa

Kepe - First part of Butinarjeva grapa

From the very top of Vrsic pass go strait up to the end of snowfield below the cliffs of southern ridge, called Grebenec. Butinarjeva ravine is the first ravine right of the Vratca notch where normal (south) route goes between the cliffs.

First part of the ravine is easiest - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steep and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. At about 2/3 of the route you will reach small rock barrier (good for making anchors). From here you will have to climb the steepest part of this route (some 10-15 mtrs) that is steep up to 70°. After that continue straight up towards the top of Grebenec ridge.

Descent

Best way to descent back to Vrsic pass is via normal (south) route.
More info on Mojstrovka southern route.

Views

Škrlatica & Prisojnik from Grebenec ridge

From the ravine itself Martuljek group and Prisojnik are visible all the time. Once you exit the ravine, on top of Grebenec ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards Trenta valley, Kanjavec, Veliko Spicje, Bavski Grintavec, Velika and Mala Mojstrovka.