Overview
Butinarjeva grapa is a short winter alpine climbing route in the eastern face of
Mojstrovka mountain at
Julian Alps. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.
Bor - Butinarjeva grapa Butinarjeva ravine Approach
Vrsic pass
The starting point for
Butinarjeva ravine route is
Vrsic pass (1.611 mtrs) at the heart of
Julian Alps, situated some 12 kilometers south of
Kranjska Gora.
More info about how to get there you can find on
Mojstrovka main page.
Route description
Alpine climbing at Butinarjeva grapa Kepe - First part of Butinarjeva grapa
From the very top of
Vrsic pass go strait up to the end of snowfield below the cliffs of southern ridge, called
Grebenec.
Butinarjeva ravine is the first ravine right of the
Vratca notch where normal (south) route goes between the cliffs.
First part of the ravine is easiest - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steep and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. At about 2/3 of the route you will reach small rock barrier (good for making anchors). From here you will have to climb the steepest part of this route (some 10-15 mtrs) that is steep up to 70°. After that continue straight up towards the top of
Grebenec ridge.
Descent
Best way to descent back to
Vrsic pass is via normal (south) route.
More info on
Mojstrovka southern route.
Views
Škrlatica & Prisojnik from Grebenec ridge
From the ravine itself
Martuljek group and
Prisojnik are visible all the time. Once you exit the ravine, on top of
Grebenec ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards
Trenta valley,
Kanjavec,
Veliko Spicje,
Bavski Grintavec,
Velika and
Mala Mojstrovka.
Essential gear
Good mountaineering shoes, helmet, ice axes, crampons and rope.
Red tape
Sometimes during winter time road for
Vrsic pass can be closed for cars, therefore you have to inform yourself accordingly.
Butinarjeva ravine