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Mojstrovka
Mountain/Rock

Mojstrovka

 
Mojstrovka

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43750°N / 13.73145°E

Object Title: Mojstrovka

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing, Big Wall, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7762 ft / 2366 m

 

Page By: Velebit

Created/Edited: Nov 14, 2002 / Oct 6, 2012

Object ID: 151343

Hits: 18396 

Page Score: 88.61%  - 27 Votes 

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Intro

 
North wall of Mojstrovka...
North wall of Mojstrovka (2366m) from the upper Sava river valley


For a hiker Mojstrovka is probably not the mountain because of which one would travel to Slovenia. Primary reason for hikers visit to Mojstrovka’s trailheads, Vrsic pass or Tamar valley, would be the giants of Julian Alps like Jalovec (2645m) or Prisojnik (2547m). But once you are here, and you conquered neighboring giants, you still have power and will left and wonder what else cloud you climb, Mojstrovka is generously offering itself to be the great end to your trip, a relaxing half-day mountain, well worth another day stay and visit, something like icing on top of the cake, the cake made of great ingredients of beautiful impressions from previous days in Julian Alps. If you are a climber than Mojstrovka and its north wall are certainly appealing to you, much more than neighboring giants of Julian Alps!


Mojstrovka Familly and its Position

 Ratece (850m) village is...
Mojstrovka (2366m) from Ratece village in upper Sava river valley


Mojstrovka is part of a long ridge, which is itself part of the main crest of Julian Alps. Ridge stretches between Jalovec (2645m) and Vrsic pass in SW-NE direction. It begins with Site (2305m), near Jalovec. Then comes Rob Velike Dnine (2228m). Highest peak of the ridge is Travnik (2379m), around its mid part. Mojstrovka has 3 summits in the NE part of the ridge: Zadnja Mojstrovka (2354m) (Last Mojstrovka), Velika Mojstrovka (2366m) (Big or Large Mojstrovka) and Mala Mojstrovka (2332m) (Small Mojstrovka). Nad Sitom Glava (2087m), a close NE neighbor of Mala Mojstrovka, is last member of Mojstrovka family. Nad Sitom Glava falls with nice NE face towards the Vratca (1807m) pass where Site – Travnik – Mojstrovka ridge ends.

On the northwest ridge falls into the Tamar valley, which is upper part of Planica valley, with monumental wall that is around 1000m high and 3.5km wide. This is one of the most beautiful walls in Julian Alps and perfect closure of Planica valley. It is very popular among climbers and its highlights are faces of Travnik and Velika Mojstrovka. Southeastern slopes, which descent into Trenta valley, are quite the opposite. They are long, made of rock and scree with some cliffs. Between rock and forest is also layer of grassy slopes. Side is forested below 1700m and descents all the way to the bottom of Trenta, which is 1.5km lower! Some 100m above the valley floor, below Travnik part of the ridge, is beautiful karst source of famous Soca river.
The whole ridge of Mojstrovke...
Mojstrovka - southern slopes

Although the torch of the main crest of Julian Alps is from Mala Mojstrovka transferred via the Vrsic Pass (1611m) into the hands of Razor & Prisojnik Group it is worth noting that crest, whose part Mojstrovka is, doesn’t end. It just changes character, quite dramatically. It is completely different play with new characters. On the north crest no longer falls into Tamar/Planica valley and southern slopes no longer descent into Trenta valley but behind Vratca pass (1807m) wild and teethed ridge continues towards the NE and Kranjska Gora resort town. It doesn’t have a monumental face on either side but equally wild slopes which fall on NW into Mala Pisnica valley and into Velika Pisnica valley on SE. Main characters are Prednje Robicje (1941m), Zadnje Robicje (1930m) and several Kumleh peaks of which Kumlehova Glava (1782m) is highest.

Now that we know Mojstrovka family better let’s focus on each member separately. We’ll begin with Mala Mojstrovka because it is most popular of three and one of most visited peaks in Julian Alps.

Mala Mojstrovka (2332m)

 
Mala Mojstrovka from...
Mala Mojstrovka above Vrsic pass

Elegant and quite sharp rocky dome of Mala Mojstrovka (2332m) dominates directly above the well known Vrsic pass (1611m) and competes with mighty Prisojnik (2547m), placed on the other side of the pass, who will steal more looks from Vrsic pass visitors whose daily numbers in summer are counted in hundreds. It is placed between Velika Mojstrovka (2366), on the SW, and Nad Sitom Glava (2087m), on the NE. Its southern slope is shallow and moderately angled rocky valley between Grebenec (S ridge) and Velika Mojstrovka. Eastern side is much steeper and 700m high. Towards Vrsic pass it falls first with cliffs, in which one can find few interesting couloirs, and long scree slopes. Lower slopes, near Vrsic pass, have green component as larches and dwarf pine cover it. Towards Velika Mojstrovka it has its only modest side. Both peaks are separated by shallow pass. Most attractive is northern side where perpendicular north face falls some 500m towards Sleme Plateau and Tamar/Planica valley. Below the face long scree slopes descent towards Tamar, that is 1300m lower!

Mala Mojstrovka is beautiful child of Velika Mojstrovka and Zadnja Mojstrovka, pride of its parents and loved by everybody. Because of its position, just above Vrsic road pass, easy southern approach and beautiful view Mala Mojstrovka is one of mostly climbed summits in Slovenia, even more than Triglav (2864m).
Here one can see lot of irregular hikers, non-mountaineers or tourists. They love it because relatively easy approach takes them after 2h of sweating on ‘real’ and high peak which offers beautiful panorama of Julian Alps, from the heart of the massif.
Skiers love it because of its skiing slopes which are just perfect angled and quite long. During late winter and early spring snowy SE slopes of Mala Mojstrovka are overrun by their tracks.
Climbers love Mala Mojstrovka because of its nice northern face which falls towards Sleme plateau and Tamar/Planica valley.
Experienced hikers love Mala Mojstrovka too. One of the sweetest and most attractive Slovenian ferrata trails leads through very steep north face of Mala Mojstrovka. Its name is Hanzova Pot trail. When one observes the face from the Sleme it seams impossible for ordinary mortals to tackle the face but Hanzova Pot safely takes you to the summit offering on the way great fun and action. Anyway this is not for inexperienced mountaineers and especially not for those that suffer from aerophobia. The best combination to visit Mojstrovka is to ascent via Hanzova Pot ferrata and descent via southern route.
It is hard to find them but there are some people that don’t love Mala Mojstrovka; those that love peace and loneliness. That is the only thing lacking on Mala Mojstrovka. But even that can be find in the neighborhood, just visit her lonely parents.
Mala Mojstrovka is peak which has something for everybody at every part of the year!
Mojstrovka from the path...
Mala Mojstrovka north wall

Climbing Routes in Mala Mojstrovka:
~ Severni Raz: UIAA III-IV, 300m
~ Kaminska Smer: UIAA III-IV+, 300m

Velika Mojstrovka (2366m)

 
 Velika Mojstrovka (2366m) is...
Velika Mojstrovka - eastern side

Highest in Mojstrovka family is Velika Mojstrovka (2366m). It is placed between Zadnja Mojstrovka (2354m), on the SW, and Mala Mojstrovka (2332m), on the NE. It is the father of Mala Mojstrovka and family genes are well visible. When looked from east Velika and Mala Mojstrovka are almost identical peaks, similar shape and appearance. The only but big difference is that Velika Mojstrovka doesn’t have as high eastern side as Mala Mojstrovka because it falls, with cliffs, into shallow rocky angled valley between them. These cliffs are very interesting looking as they are made of parallel layers which have same angle as valley. Southern slopes are similar too but bit deeper. They are also rocky and bare in upper part, grassy in mid part and forested in lower. This slope descends into short Limarica creek valley which is side valley of Trenta, which begins on Vrsic pass and is squeezed between three Mojstrovka’s and Prisojnik (2547m). Northern side is also similar to the one of Mala Mojstrovka. Of course, they are part of the same mighty wall above Tamar/Planica valley, but face of Velika Mojstrovka is higher and more impressive. Lot of beautiful routes have been climbed in it.

Velika Mojstrovka hasn’t been reached by marked path, which is good, and is quite a lonely peak, mostly visited by alpinists that climb its north wall. It is kind of safe refuge from the horde of irregular hikers and tourists that visit nearby Mala Mojstrovka. Anyway access from Mala Mojstrovka is not hard so it is highly recommended to visit Velika Mojstrovka because of wider and more beautiful view. Approach leads over the scree and short broken cliffs. It lasts around 30mins.

Climbing Routes in Velika Mojstrovka:
~ Kovinarska Smer: UIAA IV-V, 400m
~ Smer Debelakove: UIAA IV+, 450m
~ Steber Revezev: UIAA -V, 500m

Zadnja Mojstrovka (2354m)

Zadnja Mojstrovka (2354m) is last member of Mojstrovka family. It is placed SW of Velika Mojstrovka (2366m) and by its husband physically separated from its child Mala Mojstrovka (2332m) which is farther on the NE. It certainly didn’t have a good faith as it is also least visited of three. Or if we think better maybe it is the other way around. It isn’t bothered by many people, it is reserved only for those seeking mountain peace far from crowds and mostly visited by Kavka birds (Jackdaw). Its first neighbor on the SW is Travnik (2379m), which is farther than Velika Mojstrovka on the NE. As Zadnja Mojstrovka is part of the ridge in these two directions its sides are modest. Southern slopes are the same both in look and length as of Velika Mojstrovka, meaning rocky in upper part, grassy in mid part and forested in lower part. Northern face is part of same mighty wall which falls into Tamar/Planica valley which is 1300m lower!

Marks didn’t reach Zadnja Mojstrovka as they didn’t Velika Mojstrovka. Being farther away from marked Mala than Velika, Zadnja Mojstrovka is even less visited. Reaching it from Velika Mojstrovka is highly recommended as approach leads along the top of the quite easy ridge which offers amazing panoramas in all directions. It lasts around 30mins from Velika Mojstrovka.

Nad Sitom Glava (2087m)

By Bor Sumrada

Nad Sitom glava (2087m) is first peak above Vrsic pass (1611m) that belongs to the Mojstrovka family. It is located on the east side of Mala Mojstrovka and has very nice south slope for the tour skiing. It is very popular goal for the alpinists when they are trying in the winter season to prepare the new alpinists for good knowledge and education about mountains in winter. In summer season Nad Sitom Glava doesn’t have many visitors but it is popular in winter when the all three Mojstrovka are too dangerous for skiing and climbing because of avalanches.

Nad Sitom Glava is easily approachable from the Vrsic pass over the east slopes of Mala Mojstrovka below the east face of Mala Mojstrovka. From the normal marked route you turn right when you come below the east face of Mala Mojstrovka and you soon come below the south slopes of Nad Sitom glava and then you quickly reach the summit of Nad Sitom glavo. On the top you can enjoy in the beautiful view on other mountains in Martuljek group, Mangart and Jalovec group and Razor & Prisojnik group.

The description of the normal approach to Nad Sitom glava you can find here.

Nad Sitom Glava also has some hard climbing routes in north and east faces. I mentioned some of them here.

Climbing Routes in Nad Sitom Glava:
~ Smer Boba Marleya: UIAA VII+, VI/V.
~ Stoletje: UIAA VI-/IV.

Mojstrovka Views

Views from all three Mojstrovka peaks are beautiful and very wide. They stretches from Dolomites, on the west, to Hohe Tauern with Grossglockner (3798m) on the north while Julian Alps are all around. The only difference is that from Mala Mojstrovka you don’t see Jalovec (2645m), which is especially beautiful from here. To see it you’ll have to climb Velika Mojstrovka. On the other hand Velika Mojstrovka lacks the dramatic view which Mala Mojstrovka has towards Vrsic pass down its eastern side. So, it is best to combine both and enjoy all the highlights.

Getting There

The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana. Starting point for Mojstrovka is either Vrsic pass (12 kilometers south of Kranjska Gora) or Tamar valley (getting there is described in Hanzova Pot trail)

By Plane
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways, a national airline.

By Bus
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes. During the season, when there is no snow, busses connect Kranjska Gora and Bovec towns over Vrsic pass.

By Train
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town where they turn to Austria through Karavanke Alps. So, in Jasenice you have to change to bus, which comes from Ljubljana anyway. For train time schedules see: Slovenian railways or German railways sites.

By Car
From Ljubljana via the highway towards Karavanke tunnel and via the road it is 84km to Kranjska Gora.

From central Europe approach leads through Villach, Austria: via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).

From western Europe approach leads through Udine, Italy: exit from Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. From Tarvisio to Kranjska Gora is another 20km.

When To Climb

Mojstrovka can be climbed during whole year. It is one of favorite winter mountains in Julian Alps because of easy access, nice southern route and beautiful skiing slopes. I would say that it is more beautiful to climb Mojstrovka in snow season (Autumn to Spring) than in summer when it is quite hot on the southern slopes. Southern route is a must during snow period, except if you are experienced in climbing icy perpendicular walls, because pegs and fixed ropes of Hanzova Pot ferrata are covered with snow then. If you don’t like snow certainly best time to visit is October when temps are pleasant, atmosphere clear and larches are golden, especially in second half of October.

Mountain Conditions

Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is just below the Triglav (2864), highest peak of Julian Alps. Because Mojstrovka is some 200m lower than Kredarica temps are few degrees higher.

Best overview of daily data values is provided by Russian Weather Server -> Kredarica @ Infospace.ru

You can also observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site.
Wunderground - Kredarica page.

Current weather and forecasts can also be found on the Slovenian Environment Agency pages.

Direct link to Current Conditions page
Direct link to Snow Depth page

Huts

Mihov Dom na Vrsicu (1085m) (Mihov Dom hut on Vrsic) is standing just above the Vrsic road, 6 kilometers both from Kranjska Gora and Vrsic pass. The house was built after the WW I and used by Yugoslav army. After the WW II Kranjska Gora mountaineering club bought it and opened it in 1948. Since than it was renewed few times, last in 1987. It has 22 beds, hot water, electricity, phone etc. It is open ALL YEAR.

Koca na Gozdu (1226m) (Hut on Gozd) is standing just by the Vrsic road, 8 kilometers from Kranjska Gora and 4 kilometers from Vrsic. First house standing here has been built in WW I for the workers of Vrsic road. After the war mountaineering club from Kranjska Gora bought it and opened it in summer of 1922. Hut had to be closed in 1979 because of bad condition. In summer of 1984 construction of new hut begun and it was opened in 1986. It has 43 beds. Each room has its own bathroom. It is open ALL YEAR.

Erjavceva Koca na Vrsicu (1525m) (Erjavceva Koca hut on Vrsic) is standing on top of small head, surrounded by larch trees, just by the road, some hundred vertical meters or 1 kilometer in distance bellow the Vrsic pass on the north side. From the hut is beautiful view on the towering Prisojnik (2547m). First hut was built here in 1901. In 1987 it has been decided that old hut is in bad condition and no longer usable, has to be demolished and new one build, at the same spot. New hut was opened in 1991. It has 94 beds, hot water, electricity, phone etc. It is open during whole year.

Ticarjev Dom na Vrsicu (1620m) (Ticarjev Dom hut on Vrsic) is standing on the southern side of Vrsic pass, just by the road. First hut here was opened in 1912 and was named Slovenska Koca (Slovenian Hut). Between 1964 and 1966 a new hut has been built, just by the old one, which was demolished upon finishing the new one. In April of 1975 huge avalanche from Mojstrovka destroyed part of the hut. It has 91 beds, hot water and electricity, phone etc. and is open from May 1st till the end of October.

Postarski Dom na Vrsicu (1688m) (Postal hut on Vrsic) is highest placed of 3 Vrsic pass huts and has most beautiful view. Since it is not accessible by car it remained truly mountaineering hut. It has been built in 1952 on a small terrace bellow the Vrsic peak (1737m), after which pass was named. It has 65 beds, electricity, phone, hot water and it’s open from June 1st to September 30th. 15 minutes on foot from Vrsic pass.

Dom v Tamarju (1108m) (Hut in Tamar) stands on the edge of picturesque meadow, in Tamar, which is upper part of Planica valley. Hut was built in 1899 and since than numerous times rebuilt and renewed, last time in 1984. From here is beautiful view on the towering peaks around, north wall of Mojstrovka and especially Jalovec (2645m). This is one of the most romantic spots in Julian Alps. It has 128 beds, hot water, electricity, phone etc. and its open during whole year. Tamar hut is accessible by car from Ratece (6km).

Camping & Accommodation

Camping inside the National Park is forbidden. Beside the numerous mountain huts around Mojstrovka there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:

Kranjska Gora
Mojstrana
Bovec

Red Tape

Mojstrovka is in the Triglav National Park but there is no entrance fee. The only thing you might pay is parking on Vrsic pass.

Images