Campanile Federa

Overview

Geographical classification: Alps - Eastern Part > Dolomites > Croda da Lago > Campanile Federa

Campanile Federa m 2680

The small area of Croda da Lago, belonging to the Eastern Dolomites, includes some superb and sharp rocky steeples lying just in front of the adjacent area of Lastoni di Formin, East to Passo Giau 2236 m, another fine venue. Campanile Federa is one of these, a wonderful and secluded tower tipically dolomitic overlooking Alpe Federa with its East face and the wild Val Formin with its West one. In spite of its long approach, the peak without any doubt deserves a visit, in reason of its beautiful slender shape, the exposition of its climbing routes, the quality of the rock and its spectacular views. Campanile Federa shows on its West side a steep and compact wall of excellent grey “dolomia”, overlooking the lonely Val Formin; same steepness and quality of the rock on the opposite East face dominating the Alpe Federa.

History

First summit ascent: Georg Winkler and A. Zott 1885, August 6th

Getting There

Road access

The starting point to reach both the East and West face of Campanile Federa is the place named Ponte di Ru Curto m. 1695, along the road running from Pocol, near Cortina d’Ampezzo, to Passo Giau.

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North, pass Longarone and reach Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, getting San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. From Cortina follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. After 3 km., in Pocol leave the main SS48 and turn to left (signpost Passo Giau) following the road to Passo Giau.

- From Trento and Verona: take the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Ora-Egna, then follow the road to Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa, pass Cavalese and Predazzo; in Moena leave the main road and turn to right, following the Val di S. Pellegrino road to Falcade and Cencenighe Agordino. Here turn to left following the road to Alleghe, Caprile, Selva di Cadore, Passo Giau. From the pass descend along the other side, getting Ponte di Ru Curto.

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Ponte Gardena and then follow the Val Gardena road to Selva di Val Gardena and Passo Gardena, reaching Corvara and La Villa. Turn to right towards Passo Falzarego, get the pass and here descent towards left along the road SS48 towards Cortina d’Ampezzo as far as Pocol. In Pocol turn to right and follow the road to Passo Giau (signpost) as far as Ponte di Ru Curto m. 1750.

Walking access to the West face routes From Ponte di Ro Curto m. 1695 – parking area - follow the path n. 437 to Rifugio Palmieri, getting to the Alpine hut of Cason di Formin (about 45 minutes from Ponte di Ru Curto). Here leave on the left the path to Rifugio Palmieri and follow on the right the path n. 435 to Forcella Formin and Forcella Ambrizzola (signpost). The path enters the superb Val Formin

Campanile Federa and Croda da Lago Group from East

Walking access to East face routes

Just a complex approach. From Ponte di Ro Curto m. 1695 – parking area - follow the path n. 437 to Rifugio Palmieri, getting to the alpine hut of Cason di Formin (about 45 minutes from Ponte di Rocurto). At the fork carry on along the same path n. 437 towards Rifugio Palmieri. Before the descent towards the shelter, leave the main path and turn to right following a trail in the wood, then a grassy gully (cairns). Follow a path – not easy to find – getting to the grassy ledges of the East side of Cima Cason di Formin. In the upper part of the ledges follow a path leading to a scree gully, climb it, then follow towards left an easy fine ledge cutting the base of the towers and leading below the East face. (2 hours from Ponte di Ru Curto). Another approach is possible from Rifugio Palmieri (1 hour).

Campanile Federa selected routes

Best routes on Campanile Federa (UIAA Scale)

East face

- Via Dallago - Zardini (East ridge) V+, 250 m. First ascent: Franz Dallago - Armando Dallago – Raffaele Zardini 1968

West Face

- Il ruggito del coniglio (The roar of the rabbit) VI-, 310 m. First ascent: S. Cannarella – G. Rosada – Margherita Sterni – Laura Albertacci summer 2002

Other routes:

East face

- Via Phillimore - Dimai II
- Via del Foro V+
- East direct (Michielli-Franceschi) V+, 150 m.

West face

- Via Terschak-Merlet-Degregorio IV, 300 m.
- NW Ridge (Floreanini-Pagani) IV, 300 m.

Red Tape

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing; the whole area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage and deserves the best care and respect. More info on SP about "Dolomites Unesco World Heritage" here on SP: Dolomites living mountains

When to Climb

Best season goes from the end of June to the end of September

Where to stay

- Rifugio Palmieri alla Croda da Lago 2046 m

- Rifugio Passo Giau m. 2236 on Passo Giau

- Rifugio Col Gallina 2055 m on the SS48 between Passo Falzarego and Pocol

- Several possibilities in Cortina d’Ampezzo

Meteo

Arpav Dolomiti Meteo
Dolomiti Meteo - Veneto

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi, Ed. Athesia

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

Maps:

Tabacco sheet 03 – Cortina e Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000

Kompass 1:50.000 - sheet 55 - Cortina d'Ampezzo