Lastoni di Formin

Page Type
Area/Range
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
Activities:
Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer, Fall
Elevation:
8717 ft / 2657 m
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93.81% Score
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Lastoni di Formin
Created On: Oct 3, 2012
Last Edited On: Jul 31, 2018

Overview

Geographical classification: Alps - Eastern Part > Dolomites > Lastoni di Formin


Lastoni di Formin


A steep and wide face of pure “dolomia” sprouting from the meadows… the Lastoni di Formin are an amazing massif lying on the boundary ridge between Cortina d’Ampezzo and San Vito di Cadore municipalities, in the Eastern Dolomites. It runs between the Croda da Lago-Cernera Group and Passo Giau m. 2236, one of the highest road pass of the Dolomites. Their Ladin place-name is “Lastoi de Formin” and the culminating point is named Ponta dei Lastoi. The long and imposing 350 meters high West face is running very steeply side by side to the Cortina-Passo Giau road; surrounded by a wide extent of woods and meadows, creating a surprising contrast, it terminates on Forcella Giau m. 2360.
On the contrary the East side shows a sloping rocky Karst tableland, degrading gently towards the Croda da Lago group and skirting the Formin Valley. 

Lastoni di Formin high tableland
Lastoni di Formin high karst tableland
Lastoni di Formin from Forcella Zonia
Lastoni di Formin from Forcella Zonia













Another stunning face - South oriented - runs from Forcella Giau, overlooking the meadows of Mondeval.
Unlike the majority of the Dolomites’ peaks, which don’t show a weak side, the particular structure of Lastoni di Formin is the reason of  their easy accessibility along the Eastern side; a simple but absolutely satisfactory and magnificent hike starting from Passo Giau will lead you on the mountain’s highest point at 2657 m.
On the opposite steep and attractive West face we can find a great number of beautiful climbing routes Dolomites style. Also the South face offers several interesting routes, both trad and modern.

Lastoni di Formin labelled panorama

Lastoni di Formin annotated panorama from West (Passo Giau)


Getting There

 

The little chapel on Passo Giau

San Giovanni Chapel on Passo Giau

Road access

The best starting point is Passo Giau m. 2236, one of the highest pass in the Dolomites, offering a breathtaking view over the majority of the Eastern and Western Dolomites.
Passo Giau is situated at 16 km. from Cortina d’Ampezzo m. 1230 (Belluno province), the main resort in this area. Cortina can be approached from Belluno or from Bolzano:

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo.

- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.

From Cortina d’Ampezzo m. 1230 to Passo Giau m. 2236

– Follow the road SS48 to Falzarego Pass and in Pocol turn to left following the Road SP638 to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina).

Lastoni di Formin seen from the approach path

Lastoni di Formin from the path to Forcella Giau

Summit view to Antelao and Becco di Mezzodì

Summit view to Antelao and Becco di Mezzodì

Lastoni di Formin in late afternoon

Lastoni di Formin in late afternoon

Red Tape

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but Lastoni di Formin are situated inside "Pelmo and Croda da Lago" area, one of the nine mountains systems of the Dolomites acknowledged as UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and require the best care and respect.
More info about Dolomiti Unesco World Heritage here:

Dolomites living mountains

Dolomiti Unesco

Achillea Moscata

Achillea Moscata


Drias Octopetala - Val Formin

Drias Octopetala


Gentiana Punctata - Passo Giau, Eastern Dolomites

Gentiana Punctata

Gentiana Acaulis, Mondeval meadows

Gentiana Acaulis, Mondeval meadows


Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Ponte di Rocurto

 

Stones

Stones on the tableland

- Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Ponte di Rocurto

Difficulty: Easy Walk
Ascent length: 900 m.
Total time: 6 hours

An amazing circular trail leading easily to Punta dei Lastoi, the highest summit of Lastoni di Formin. Here you’ll see one of the best view of the Dolomites. The route’s starting point is situated at Rocurto Bridge m. 1709, along the SP638 from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Passo Giau.

From Ponte di Rocurto (parking) follow the path n. 437 leading to Cason de Formin m. 1875. Turn to right and follow the path n. 435, rising along Val Formin, dominated by the beautiful massif of Croda da Lago. The path is getting to the reddish saddle named Forcella dei Lastoi m. 2462, also named Forcella Rossa (Reddish Saddle). Here you must leave the marked path (descending towards the Alpe Mondeval) and turn to right following at first towards West, then toward NW, a poor trail with several cairns crossing all the rocky Karst tableland and leading to Punta Lastoi, the culminating point of Lastoni di Formin. From the summit follow the same trail towards Forcella dei Lastoi or Forcella Rossa. Here carry on along the path n. 435 descending in the opposite side of the saddle col towards the Alpe Mondeval. The path crosses another path marked with the number 436 coming from Passo Giau: follow it towards Forcella Ambrizzola m. 2277, then turn to left reaching the Palmieri Hut m. 2046. From here a path comes back to Casoni di Formin; again the first part of the itinerary will lead you to the starting point.

Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Passo Giau

 

Lastoni di Formin high Karst tableland

Lastoni di Formin high Karst tableland

- Lastoni di Formin Normal Route from Passo Giau

Difficulty: Easy Walk
Ascent length: 450 m.
Total time: 3,30 hours

Another shorter but amazing route leading to Punta dei Lastoi is starting from Passo Giau, m. 2236.

From the little Chapel of S. Giovanni Guadalberto on Passo Giau (parking) follow the path n. 436 to Forcella Zonia and Forcella Col Piombin; after a short descent the path rises at Forcella Giau m. 2360, then a new gentle descent leads to Malga Mondeval di Sopra; the path turn towards left rising towards Forcella Ambrizzola. Before getting to the col leave the path and turn to left following the path n. 462 to Forcella dei Lastoni or Forcella Rossa m. 2462. At the saddle you must leave the main path and follow on the left, at first towards West, then toward NW, a poor trail with several cairns crossing all the rocky Karst tableland and leading to Punta Lastoi, the culminating point of Lastoni di Formin. Descent along the same itinerary.

Lastoni di Formin main climbing sectors and routes

Lastoni di Formin main climbing sectors and routes

Lastoni di Formin Area offers a great choice of classic routes running on the long West wall facing the road rising to Passo Giau and on the South-West wall overlooking Alpe di Mondeval. There are also some moderne routes; these latters are mainly located on the Grand Diedro and the secluded South Face of Punta Lastoi - or Spiz de Mondeval - which dominates the wonderful basin of Mondeval. According to the Italian climbing areas' habit, trad routes grades are expressed with the UIAA Scale, while modern routes grades are expressed with the French Scale. Starting from the left the main climbing sectors are Torrione Marcella, Gran Diedro, Grande Parete Costeana, Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval, IV Bastione di Mondeval and V Bastione di Mondeval. Another interesting sector is Cima Cason di Formin belonging to Croda da Lago Group.

Torrione Marcella

Torrione Marcella 2292 m


Torrione Marcella 2292 m

A slender tower on the left of Lastoni W face

West face

Via Nikibi French 6b+, 6a obbl., 280 m., bolts - M. Dibona, G. Alexander 2002

- Via Paolo Amedeo V+, 260 m. - M. Dibona, A. Nascè 2001


Lastoni - Gran Diedro

Lastoni - Gran Diedro 2376 m


Gran Diedro 2376 m

The left sector of W Face

West face

Pilastro Priolo VI (VI-, A0) 280 m., trad route - G.Buzzi, G.Calzi, R.Priolo, N.Zeper 1974

Supertegolina 7a, 6b obbl., 350 m. - Bolts - F. Piardi, F. Tremolada 1999


Lastoni di Formin from West

Lastoni - Grande Parete Costeana 2376 m


Grande Parete Costeana 2585 m

The right secor of W Face

West face

Via dei Bolognesi IV, IV+ 280 m. - F. Bonetti, P. Bonetti, P.Mezzacasa 1977

Via della Rampa (SW Spur) IV+, 270 m., trad route - M. Bernardi, C. Denicolò 2004 (first pitches) M. Pradel, M. Savio, R. Daniele 1980 (upper pitches)


Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval

Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval


Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval 2376 m

The left sector of South Face

South face

Re Artù 6b, 350 m., bolts - Mario Dibona & co.

Love my dogs 6c+, 6b obbl., 300 m., bolts - M. Dibona, G. Alexander

Sperone sinistro IV+, 315 m. - K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985

Via del Diedro Nero V+, A0 (or VI), 270 m., trad route - K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985

Pilastro Sud VI-, A0, 340 m., trad route - M. Alverà, P. Pompanin, C. Menardi 1977 (first pitches) L. Dallapalma, T. Andriolo (upper pitches)


IV and V Bastione di Mondeval

Lastoni - IV e V Bastione di Mondeval


IV e V Bastione di Mondeval 2376 m

The right sector of South Face

South face

Sperone Irene V, 230 m. - M. Bernardi, I. Demetz 2004

Via della Placca Nera III, IV, 180 m. - E. Cipriani, T. Cavattoni 1992


Cima Cason di Formin

Cima Cason di Formin 2376 m


Cima Cason di Formin 2376 m

A massive tower along the Val Formin

North West face

Diedro Dallago IV+, 330 m. - F. Dallago, D. Costantini 1970

Via Menardi-Alverà V, V+, 270 m. - A. Menardi, M. Alverà 1975

Via Cecilia VI, 260 m. - P. Bellodis, C. De Filippo 2003


Climbing shots

Main Rock Climbing Rating Systems

Climbing Grades:

Rock Climbing Rating Systems
FrenchYDS (USA)UIAAFrenchYDS(USA)UIAAFrenchYDS(USA)UIAA
15.2I6b5.10cVII-7c+5.12dIX
25.3II6b+5.10dVII8a5.13a/5.13bIX+/X-
35.4III6c5.11aVII+8a+5.13cX-
45.5IV6c+5.11bVII+/VIII-8b5.13dX
5a5.6V-7a5.11cVIII-8b+5.14aX+
5b5.7V/V+7a+5.11dVIII8c5.14bX+/XI-
5c5.8VI-7b5.12aVIII+8c+5.14cXI-
6a5.9VI/VI+7b+5.12bVIII+/IX-9a5.14dXI
6a+5.10a/5.10bVI+/VII-7c5.12cIX-9a+5.15aXI+

Lastoni di Formin summit views

Pelmo from Lastoni di Formin

Pelmo

Tofana di Rozes close-up from Lastoni di Formin

Tofana di Rozes close-up

Croda da Lago from Lastoni di Formin

Croda da Lago seen from Lastoni di Formin Tableland

When to climb and hike

Best season goes from June to October

Meteo

Lastoni di Formin map

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Where to stay

Rifugio Passo Giau m. 2236

Rifugio Palmieri Croda da Lago m. 2042

Guidebooks and Maps

"IV grado e più Dolomiti Orientali" by E. Zorzi, L. Brigo, C. Piovan - Ed. Idea Montagna

"Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle "Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Ed. Athesia

Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000