Capitol Trip Report 7/5-7/6/2004

Capitol Report 7/5-7/6/2004 Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide. That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me. Day 1 - backpacked into Capitol Lake. I believe it is 7.5/8 miles. Took us 3.5 hours not much elevation gain and felt pretty easy which I was glad since I have not lugged a 45 pound pack in quite a while. I gotta learn to go lighter! Day 2 - Started hiking 4:40 am - reached summit at 9:30 am (under 5 hours). First hour was walking up to saddle then 4 hours of rock climbing and much of the time I was short roped. Went about 20 feet below the summit of K2 on the right hand side. Hit the knife edge and I chose the right side as I liked the footholds. But on the way back I tried the other side. They should put that knife edge near the summit. It is unfair to get across it then see another 2 hours of climbing ahead. Some people hate that knife edge but I was short roped and the rock is good and footholds good. I think the worst part is so much non stop climbing and if weather came in -forget it! But each person has their own fear. I don't want to be up high for long time. Having a rope gives me all kinds of comfort too. Some people just walk right across with no rope and some people see that edge and turn around. The continual climb up rocks can feel relentless at times. On the way down, I tried the other side of the knife edge and then we went up to summit of K2. Our climb down was way different route and took almost as long as there were 3 of us and we decided to carry only one axe so we kept walking around some of the steeper snowfields. I was all excited when we reached the summit in just under 5 hours cause I thought it might be 3 1/2 on way back. But it took almost as long to get back down. That part I hated the most. It seemed like we walked way out of the way but it was less downclimbing. Arrived at base camp at 2:30 pm. Then backpacked out after 20 minute rest. So it was 13.5 hours of hiking then I drove home 4 hours - should have stayed in town and lived it up! Nothing like being tired and driving over Independence Pass. But as some of you Coloradans know there is ice cream stand in Buena Vista which is a good reward. == The End ==