Overview/Approach
Mountain Project contributors have Cedarcicle at WI 5-6. Although a fine pillar by
southern Utah ice climbing standards, I thought that grade was a bit of a stretch for a 80’ pillar.
We found Cedarcicle in fantastic shape in early February, 2011. This despite the fact that it had already lost its top once to warm temps. Unlike the
Canadian Rockies objectives, that when they fall, their season is over, desert ice objectives have the ability to continue to flow well via the varying temps. This allows them to rebuild in short order with the next sustained freeze. We warmed up on
Hidden Haven (WI 3-4) in Parowan, Utah and then backtracked to Cedar City.
To combine these two routes makes for a great day out if day tripping ice from St. George, UT.
Folks claim it is rare that this fall ever touches ground. However, the base we witnessed in 2011 was so substantial, I find that hard to believe. This road is well traveled and the ice climb quite accessible.
From downtown Cedar City, ride East Center Street east out of town as it turns into
Highway 14 heading for Cedar Breaks National Monument. Cedarcicle is located in the
Dixie National Forest at about mile marker 11 on Highway 14. There is a deep alcove on the left side of the road and the pillar is obvious from the road as it drapes an overhanging sandstone wall.
Route Description
Pillar- 80’ +/-, WI 5-6/ Mountain Project has this pillar at WI 5-6,
but that was quite hard to justify in the shape we found it during early February 2011. The waterfall was deep and wide. It had a huge base that ran back underneath the overhang. The front was wide enough that gave you a flat surface in which to climb. Although steep and a bit chandelierly in places, I found the hooks holding on most cicles.
A solid and fun heel hook came into play as you trounced up the small mushrooms of the lower half. The second half was more straight forward WI 4, a bit wetter as well though. There is a solid tree to top rope the route and take laps on it. Via the snow trail, I could tell it definitely saw some traffic in 2011 and even though the top completely fell sometime in January, it re-formed fairly substantial in short order.
External Links
Zicicle, WI 5, Zion National Park, UT
Kanarraville Falls, WI 4+, Kanarraville, UT
Hidden Haven, WI 3-4, Parowan, UT