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Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5
Route

Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5

 
Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 40.34120°N / 111.6037°W

Object Title: Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: WI 5

Number of Pitches: 7

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jan 27, 2010 / Feb 22, 2013

Object ID: 592511

Hits: 5136 

Page Score: 85.87%  - 21 Votes 

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Route Description/Approach

 
Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5
 

Stairway to Heaven (not to be confused with Highway to Heaven in Joes Valley which I have climbed as well) is described in David Black’s Utah Ice guide book as “considered by most Utah climbers to be the state’s finest ice climb”. Jim Knight and Mark Ward put in the first published account of the climb in 1975, completing the first four pitches. Lou Dawson and George Vicenzi completed the climb, as we did, in 1976, the first five pitches. Compared to the many routes I have climbed in the Canadian Rockies, Stairway to Heaven had an uncanny resemblance to Professor Falls (III, WI 4) near Banff which is my local “lap climb” when based out of Canmore. We arrived in Provo at about noon and had no intention to jumping on Stairway to Heaven for our first route of a mid week romp, but when we arrived at the parking area and observed how easy the approach was to all the climbing, we went ahead and knocked it out during a fairly warm January afternoon.
 
Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5
 
 
Stairway to Heaven, III, WI 5
 
 
Petzl Light
 

The guide book speaks of potentially seven pitches, Mountain Project, 10 pitches. In January of 2010, we required only five pitches to reach the top of the ice that was in. I ran the first pitch (aka the Apron) a full 200’ up two curtains, belaying into the base of the third curtain. Our 2nd pitch took us 100’ up a very pleasant WI 4 pitch to a tree on the left hand side. Our 3rd pitch sent an easy curtain up to a broad ledge and over to a tree on the right hand side below the only ice covering the long overhung wall on top of the ledge. The 4th pitch was a fun, albeit short WI 4 curtain gaining the top of this wall. The 5th pitch was an easy 100’ WI 5 pillar in good shape in mid January. Any remaining pitches above this pillar were void of ice in mid January, 2010.

Mountain Project rates this climb WI 5+ R, 10 pitches. Not sure who has climbed those last pitches (above seven), but assume since there is no description of them on MP, that they are rather unremarkable. We found the route well protected through the first five pitches at all times.

Pull off at Nunn’s park on the right side of US 189. Park on the right side of US 189 and walk through the gate onto a road heading east. Stairway to Heaven is fairly immediate. We started in the woods following tracks on the right side of the gully and crossed below the climb to access the left shoulder of the gully. Some folks were top roping the right side, and I believe that is a better start to this climb.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

We made a double rope rap off of bolts at the top of the 5th pitch. Another double rope rap from bolts at the top of the 4th pitch. Another double rope rap from the top of the 3rd pitch (tree) and then walked off the route to skiers left, via one small down climb.

Essential Gear

Double 50 or 60m ropes. Tools, crampons, draws, screamers, helmet, gaiters, etc. Felt fairly protected from the wind here compared to the Fang in terms of temps.

Tips for Provo

The new (2009) Springhill Suites by Marriott (across from the BYU stadium) has a $75 rate if you are creative enough to get it (free breakfast). Perfect location (closest) to day trip it into the canyon and party with the college kids at night. Ate at a neat little Peruvian place named Se Llama Peru on W. Center Street. My younger partner had a hard time buying college Mormon chicks drinks at the bars, wait, what bars?

External Links

  • DowClimbing.Com
  • Unita-Wasatch-Cashe National Forest
  • Utah Avalanche Center
  • One of the best avalanche sites I have used

    Additions and Corrections

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    Viewing: 1-4 of 4    
    builttospillAbove Pitch 5

    builttospill

    Hasn't voted

    Hey Dow,



    The description you give for the first five pitches is spot-on. Some of the upper pitches (6+7) occasionally come in, and at one time pitches 8-10 were being farmed. I believe pitch 7 is usually the last to fully form. Clearly, the upper pitches are not being farmed this year, but I believe they were in during 2008-2009. But most people I know consider the five pitches you've listed to be the "standard" route....anything above that is just icing on the cake.
    Posted Jan 27, 2010 5:02 pm
    Dow WilliamsRe: Above Pitch 5

    Dow Williams

    Hasn't voted

    Thanks man. I didn't know if this was just a bad year or not. I had never been back in Provo Canyon and assumed we were going to gain more elevation than that. Cheers
    Posted Jan 27, 2010 5:15 pm
    builttospillRe: Above Pitch 5

    builttospill

    Hasn't voted

    By the way, I meant to tell you regarding the dearth of ice during your visit.....the Wasatch Range typically experiences something of a warm snap in early January (it's happened like 5 of the last 6 years I've been here), which hammers the ice in Provo Canyon due to the lower elevation. Provo Canyon isn't the Canadian Rockies by any stretch.....there's not nearly the volume of ice, but you also came at a somewhat inopportune time. Still, it's good to see you got on some stuff (I suspect you got most of the worthwhile climbs done anyway).
    Posted Jan 29, 2010 12:38 am
    Dow WilliamsRe: Above Pitch 5

    Dow Williams

    Hasn't voted

    It was better than Joe's Valley last Christmas, was way to early there as well. Donorcicle was good stuff, but not much else. No question a bit spoiled, but exploring new ice is always good stuff no matter the conditions, cheers.
    Posted Jan 29, 2010 10:09 am

    Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

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