Hidden Haven, WI 3-4

Overview/Approach

Hidden Haven Falls is listed as a WI 3-4 by Utah ice climbers who have written it up, but I found it less difficult on average for a WI 3 (February, 2008) by Canadian Rockies standards. I will leave the rating as it is, as it is somewhat apparent that southern Utah ice is rated slightly higher for the grade compared to Canadian Rockies no doubt due to the amount of ice available to climb and experience level of the local ice climbers available to climb it.

There is a decent parking spot at the summer trail head (marked sign, north side of the road) for Hidden Haven Falls. This is the best spot to park, particularly if there is a ton of fresh snow as there was in February, 2008. If less snow, you can also park on the north side of the road further west closer to the creek that leads to the falls. In any regard, hike north crossing the creek to the west side and post hole your way up to the base of the first short pitch of WI 3 ice.

Route Description

200’, 3-4 Pitches, WI 2-4

1st Pitch- 10m- WI 3/ This pitch can be easily soloed if all climbers are competent. I led it and used one screw placement towards the top to protect the tricky transition from ice to snow and rock. A mini cornice can form at the top of this pitch. There is rappel tat (2008) to dig up on the smaller tree to the right of a larger tree at the top of the pitch. This tree makes for the best belay as well in terms of angle.

2nd Pitch- 10m- WI 2/ Drag the rope to the next short WI 2 pitch, which again can be soloed with the crux being the transition at the top from ice to deep snow and rock. The rappel here is a small to medium tree up and to your right.

3rd Pitch- 10m- WI 2/ Drag the rope along and up a small WI 2 step, turn the corner and climb a short step past rappel bolts (we did not use but rather did a butt slide for this section on descent). This puts you at the base of the real pitch of Hidden Haven Falls.

4th Pitch- 30m- WI 3-4/ The last pitch of Hidden Haven Falls is quite the aesthetic piece. It is narrow and winding ice that snakes up between steep basalt red walls of the canyon to deep snow above. Although rated as WI 3+/4-, I found it to be a short and easy WI 3 grade by Canadian Rockies standards. Climb an easy angled section straight above and protect at the base of the next curtain. In 2008, we found plenty of rests and solid ice to sew this route up and thus give one in our party his first WI lead on placed screws. I believe Hidden Haven Falls to be a good route for this purpose. Again, as the previous short sections, the crux on this pitch is the transition from the ice to the snow and rock above as you top out. There is a large tree up and to your right that has tat set up for a top rope/rappel. Be careful with your footing as you post hole up to the tree. Place some long runners for a beneficial top rope angle. We pulled the rope and swapped leads. A super practice pitch in my opinion as before mentioned.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the large tree; slide the next ice or rap from the bolts on the wall; down climb or rap from two smaller trees to descend the next two short pieces.

Essential Gear

Two Ice Tools, Single 70 meter Rope (last pitch could be slightly over 30m…we used a 70m rope, 6-8 Ice Screws with draws and/or screamers, Crampons, Helmet, Warm Gear, but you can leave the sunglasses at home, this can be a cold spot in the dead of winter as you get no sun, albeit no wind either, Full Shank Boots, Gaiters (the snow was deep in February, 2008)

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Images

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