Overview/Approach
There are two WI 4 pillars located off of
Old US Hwy 91 south of Kanarraville, UT which can be reached off of
exit 42 on I-15. Both are
interesting free hanging columns of ice in sandstone amphitheaters. Both are approximately
60’ tall. The north one is the only published one as of 2010 and has also been called
Camp Creek Falls. It is the most dependable of the two in terms of longevity and flow. However, a much more interesting pillar is located at the next creek flow south. The only published grade (2010) on the north pillar is WI 4+ although it seemed like a short typical WI 4 when we climbed it in January, 2011. The pillar to the south was a bit fragile and hollow yet (Jan 6) despite several weeks of solid freezing temps and it definitely would draw a WI 4+ from me and even a WI 5 grade if it was a bit taller.
The north pillar has a fixed rap station as of 2010 and had visible traffic on its approach in 2010. The south pillar had no visible traffic. The north pillar can be top roped if so desired but
led well up the left side. The right side definitely gave another variation.
The route was quite wet in January. The south pillar would require a solo lead in early January, 2011 due to the lack of good screw placements. It appeared very plausible it might firm up better with another week or two of freezing temps. One group has at least top roped it to date and named it
Chekshani Falls. Once it gets led, that appears to be as good a name as any.
Exit off of I-15 at #42 and head east to Old US Hwy 91. Turn left and head north to a right hand turn into a sub division named
Chekshani Cliffs. The two drainages are obvious as you face east. The north one offers better parking where no existing homes bar the way. The south pillar requires that you park at the end of a cul-de-sac where homeowners might object although we did not encounter any issues. For the north approach, head slightly northeast crossing a barbed wire fence before you reach the drainage. The south pillar is pretty much straight east from the cul-de-sac to reach the drainage.
Route Description(s)
North Pillar- 60'- WI 4/ Mountain Project has this pillar at 4+. They also name it Camp Creek Falls. The right side might be more of a WI 4+, but the left side seemed your run of the mill short WI 4. We led the left side and top roped the right which I thought was more interesting of a climb as you had to move right to left to avoid the cliff to reach the top. The middle was extremely wet with running water and sprung leaks. The rappel is fixed up and right. Dow
South Pillar- 60'- WI 4+/ This pillar is not published but has been top roped in 2011. After a fairly decent cold spell by southern Utah standards in January of 2011, it was still quite hollow with a heavy flow. So hollow that the placement of screws appeared obsolete and it would require a solo ascent if led. There is a fairly immediate hike up to top rope it. This Pillar would be a WI 5 if it was a bit taller. It had the shape of an Eagle, much like the Eagle in Valley of the Birds in the North Ghost. Dow
External Links
Hidden Haven Falls, WI 3-4
Zicicle Ice Climb, WI 5
Donorcicle, WI 5