Chalkboard Dome, 5.5-5.11

Overview/Approach

One of the more moderate, yet quiet, areas to go cragging on the east side is the Lost Canyon area located way up the hill below the east end of the Rockfellow Group.  Due to the length of the approach compared to crags lower down, these walls remain relatively serene.   Lost Canyon for the most part is comprised of four domes, listed from east to west on approach:  Chalkboard, Surrealist, Cholla and Polychrome.  Chalkboard Dome is the first objective you come to on approach from the east side and features the second largest collection of routes of the four domes.  Its main climbing wall faces east and features two good moderates:  Lance Armstrong Walked on the Moon, 5.8** (trad) and Call of the Wild, 5.8** (sport).   Yay, A Substitute, 5.9PG** (mixed) is located on Chalkboard’s north wall  It is worth doing if you are here, but not as good as the beforementioned routes.

Approach from the east side as you would for the Rockfellow Group.  Beyond the right turn for the Stronghold Dome, keep an eye out for a trail cutting out left which is Lost Canyon Trail.  Ascend this trail as it switchbacks up the steep hill to the base of the east face of Chalkboard Dome, which lands you right below the obvious roof of Land Armstrong Walked on the Moon. 

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the East Wall

Southeast Buttress

Most Dangerous Game- 300’-5.6 RX*/

East Face

Gift of the Magi- 65’-5.5/

Retrieved Reformation- 75’-5.7+/

He’s Making it Up- 80’-5.7+*/

Lady or the Tiger- 80’-5.11-**/

Lance Armstrong Walked on the Moon- 100’-5.8**/ This is the best moderate route on the wall.  Climb the arete next to the wide right facing corner.  You can place one small piece and maybe a #5 if you want. Traverse under the roof to the left with underclings and small to medium gear.  The traverse is thin for your feet at first but with good fingers and gear.  It offers exposure at the grade.  You can top rope the route from the fixed station out the left side of the roof.  Dow

John Glenn’s Space Capsule Landed on the Toilet- 130’-5.8 PG-R/

The Road Not Taken- 130’-5.8*/

Call of the Wild- 120’-5.8**/ You can rap this route with a single 70m but be careful if you are lowering someone.  Climb the fun bolted arete, then up a short face to the slab below an easy and fun roof pull with the bolt on the outer wall.  Fixed rap above.  Dow

I Don’t Feel Tardy- 85’-5.8/

Carpet Snot- 85’-5.11*/

North Face

Yay, A Substitute- 100’-5.9PG13**/ Not sure why this route gets the same recommendation in the local guide as Lance Armstrong and Call of the WIld.  It is not near as good of a route as either of those other moderates.  Yay is on the right side of the dome and is a north facing route with quite of bit of mossy slab and edge climbing once you leave the obvious crack. There is a bolted line (Telltale) just to the right.  Start up the obvious crack/flake. Pull out less than half way up to climb the featured face straight above.  A couple of slab moves at the grade are protected by bolts to the fixed anchor above.  Dow 

Telltale Heart- 100’-5.11-**/