The line climbs to the same ledge system as Trezlar and Tale Of Two Shitties in three pitches. Although not sustained, the crux (on P1) felt harder than anything on the other two 5.10a trad lines mentioned. The line is probably not done often (judging by crappy bolts on P1/P2) and deservedly so IMHO. Whereas we’ve done Trezlar and Tale Of Two Shitties twice, I don’t think this one is worth a re-visit (mostly ho-hum with a hardish crux). Still, if you haven’t done it, it IS worth one trip…just don’t fall on start of P2.
Route is located on the right (southwest) side of the Mesa Verde Wall – right/downhill of Sundown and left of Palo Verde. Look for a right facing dihedral with some large dissolution pockets about 50 feet up and on the right. Sport routes flank the line on both left and right sides.
Pitch 1: 5.10a, 90 feet. Climb up the right facing dihedral – some awkward moves interrupted by nice ledgy stances. 30 feet up, clip a bolt and launch up into the thin crux. Follow the upper of two right-leaning arches into the dissolution pockets. Traverse right (go high right under the “micro roof” above) onto a nice ledge with a crappy bolt anchor. Can back up with #0.5-#0.75 Camalots behind an expando flake.
Pitch 2: 5.9, 90 feet. Move up the face past one old bolt (5.9) – watch the loose/flexing block at the start. Climb easier (but chossy) terrain above to a new bolted anchor at a small stance behind a huge, leaning boulder (watch for big rocks on the lege).
Pitch 3: 5.8, 100 feet. Follow the right facing dihedral past a bulge. Enter a low-angle chimney and follow it to the top. Belay from bolts on a huge flat ledge.
Same as for Tale Of Two Shitties. From the belay bolts, rap (single rope) to top of P2 of Shitties (swing climber’s right). Double rope rap brings you straight to the ground (this allows you to bypass the crappy bolts on P1 of this route).
Set of cams to #3 Camalot. Doubles up to #0.75, with possible extras in finger and smaller. We also brought a #5 Friend which was used to protect the start of the route & also used it near top of P2 (highly optional).