OverviewDisc World is one of the few established crags located in the U.A.E. (United Arab Emirates).
It has a little of everything with its two trad routes and five sport routes. Though only seven routes, Disc World offers a good variety and is worth the drive for a day of craging. The majority of the climbing is on a face of crimpy limestone. However the crag also offers an interesting off-width crack and a nice multi pitch sport route. All but two routes are toprope accessible.
Disc World is best in the winter months due to its southeast aspect. The face does not receive shade until afternoon between 13:00-14:00. Parking is nearby and the crag is just a short scramble up some loose scree.
Getting ThereFrom Dubai take E311 (Emirates Road) towards RAK (Ras Al Khaimah). From the roundabout at the north end of 311, drive north for 7.7km to the “Clock Tower Roundabout”. Take a right and drive for 2.4km till you see the RAK lagoon on the left. Turn right and drive for 2.9km. Go past the golf course to the “Lantern Roundabout”. Go straight though the “Lantern RA” and the “Coffee Pot RA”. Continue following this road as it passes through some houses until it dead-ends at a T junction.
At the T junction turn right and drive for 1.4km towards the mountains, passing a military camp, to the turn into Wadi Bih (signposted “W. Al Baih”). At the Wadi Bih junction continue on the main road that heads north for 3.0km passing another military base and a large satellite dish.
Turn right onto gravel for 500m to a fork in the road. Take the left at the fork. After another 1.1km the dirt road meets a paved road. The crag should now be visible. Turn left onto the paved road toward the crag. Leave the paved road and drive directly toward the crag.
When to ClimbThe wall is southeast facing. It gets full sun until early afternoon.
It is comfortable to climb from November to April. In the summer months the temperature can reach 112 Degrees Fahrenheit (44 C). There is almost no rain except for the occasional shower in the winter months.
Technical Route Overview
|Route||YDS rating||Sport bolted||TR Anchor|
|Crack of Ohm||5.8||n||n|
Red TapeNo red tape.
CampingNot recommended directly below the crag. However, there are some good areas to pitch a tent nearby. Just be respectful of the local farms and community.
External LinksUAE Rock Climbing by Toby Foord-Kelsey (2009) is a well-prepared, selective guidebook to climbing in the UAE and Oman.
www.redarmadapublishing.comsupports the guidebook with a blog, new route updates and an archive of routes not included in the guidebook.
www.uaeclimbing.com/forum is a web forum for UAE climbers.