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E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

Page Type: Route

Location: Aosta/Wallis (Monte Rosa), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92140°N / 7.83910°E

Object Title: E-ridge from the Lysjoch to the E-summit

Route Type: Steep Basic Snow and Glacier Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD, snow and ice up to 45°

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 26, 2004 / Sep 26, 2004

Object ID: 162278

Hits: 5680 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.

You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.

Route Description

From Rif. Gnifetti you cross Lysglacier and ascent to the Lys pass, 4248m.

From here you turn to the NW and the to W and start walking to the Lyskamm. First a slope is not very steep and you get on. Then the slope becomes a ridge and you must be carfeul because the ridge has a lot of cornices but technically is not very hard.

It takes 4 to 5 hours, if the conditions are good. Because of the cornices you often have to move in the steep NE-flank.

From the east summit you can continue to the west summit or you descend by the same route.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, ice pick, crampons.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
Mathias ZehringRoute Comment

Mathias Zehring

Hasn't voted

"walk up" does not characterize this climb properly.

According to Goedeke an Waeber it is:

AD, snow and ice up to 45°, very exposed, G4
Posted Sep 26, 2004 9:58 am
BorRoute Comment


Hasn't voted

Yes I was adding today another route and I forgot that I was adding route on Lyskamm too.

Thanks for warning and have a good one!

Cheers Bor!
Posted Sep 26, 2004 10:02 am
Vidar LundRe: Route Comment

Hasn't voted

Did this route a couple of weeks ago. In good conditions it's technically simple but it's scary. My only advice - concentrate on every step, focus your eyes on the path and don't look down! :-)
Posted Aug 2, 2017 8:09 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3    


Lyskamm east ridgeLyskamm east summit (4.527 mtrs)Descending from LyskammZooming in on the Lyskamm East ridge from LudwigshöheLyskamm, 4527m, and its steep...E-ridge from Lysjochsunrise above eastern ridge..;)
sharply descending :)brother coming down. It was quite hike up&down.E-ridge