The last maintainer of this page and early SummitPost member Rahel Maria Liu) died for hypotermia 24/25 August 2004 after being caught in a freak snowstorm while attempting to climb the Innominata Spur on the southern (Italian) face of Mont Blanc. Edward Allen, her climbing companion (a british climber known some days early), was saved by an helicopter of Italian Rescue team.
Rahel was a charter member during SP's early days, and her work here remains among the best of SP's collected contributions. Her knowledge and experience has made an impact on the world mountaineering community, and her warmth and friendship will be long remembered among her many friends and fellow members here at SummitPost. She will be greatly missed by us all. She was only 34 years old. Continued maintenance of this page is in her memory.
The Lyskamm builds a colossal massif with its almost 1000m high ice NE-face. The best view is availeable from the Gornergrat or the Monte-Rosa-Hütte. The summit ridge with a length of more than 1000 m (Waeber) or rather 2000 m (Biner) between the West-summit (4479m) and the little higher East- summit makes the end of this northface. The biggest problems are the cornices. Therefore people call it "Menschenfresser" (maneater). The concret reason: on the 6th September 1877, 2 english alpinist fell down to death (William Arnold Lewis and Noel Paterson), and in 1896, Dr. Max Günther with his guides Roman Imboden and Peter Ruppen died as well because of the cornices. It is very difficult and dangerous if weather changes.
The S-side is built by a 500 m high rockflank, which is interrupted by a small hanging glacier. This rockflank stands on the Lysglacier with its two broken tongues. It goes down to the Gressoneyvalley.
Especially the traverse from the Lysjoch to the Felikjoch is a great classic tour, which is technically not very difficult, but dangerous because of the cornices. It takes 4 to 5 hours, if the conditions are good. Because of the cornices you often have to traverse in the steep NE-flank.
Sometimes the E-summit is reached via the WSW-ridge and the S-ridge. The different ascents through the NE-face are all very difficult and objectively dangerous because of icefall. Buth the view to the Northface-wall with its many kilometers is impressing. It seems to be steeper than it actually is if you look directly to it from the north, for example from the Monte-Rosa-Hütte of from the ascent to the Dufourspitze.
The first climb of the summit-ridge was undertaken together with the first ascent of the W-summit on 16th of August 1864 by Sir Leslie Stephen and Edward N. Buxton with the guides Jakob Anderegg and Franz Biner. The main-summit (E-summit) was already climbed for the first time on the 19th of August 1861 by 8 english mountaineers together with 6 swiss guides. It was like an expedition.
For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.
Routes-Overview1. E-ridge (normal route) from the Lysjoch to the E-summit:
- -G 4, snow till 45°, 1 1/2 - 2 h, 380 hm (Waeber)
- ZS, 2 h from Lysjoch (Biner)
- PD, II, till 40 °, 4-5 h from Gnifettihütte, 890 hm, firn and ice, as skitour possible, skidepot at Lysjoch (Dumler)
2. Traverse to the W-summit:
- - II, G 7, 1 - 2 h, 1 km (Waeber)
- ZS, III, 1,5 h , 6 h from the Cap. Quintino Sella to Lysjoch (Biner)
- ZS, 4-6 h (totally) (Vaucher)
3. SW-ridge from the Felikjoch to the W-summit:
- - G 4, 420 hm, 2 h (Waeber)
- WS, 3, 5 h (Biner)
- PD, II (passages), till 40°, 2-3 h from Felikjoch, 390 hm,mixed, as skitour possible, depot at Felikjoch (Dumler)
4. S-ridge to the E-summit:
- - II (passages), G 5, 960 hm, 4-5 h (Waeber)
- PD, II, mixed, 5 h from Gnifettihütte, 890 hm (Dumler)
- - very difficult (Waeber)
- Neruda-Klucker-route to the E-summit (the most secure route through the face):
- Nessi-Andreani-route to the W-summit (ojectively dangerous):
- D, till 55°, 7 h from the foot, 700 hm, very difficult and dangerous (Dumler)
- SS, IV+, 4 h for the face, 1- 3 h to the foot (Biner)
- 50°-55°, 700 hm, 5-6 h, 3 h from the Monte-Rosa-Hütte (Vanis)
- SS, 6-8 h, 727 hm (Vaucher)
- SS, 8-10 h (Vaucher)
- - very difficult, big bergschrund, seldom climbed (Waeber)
- - very difficult, big bergschrund, seldom climbed (Waeber)
- - AD+, III+, mixed, 7 h from Gnifettihütte 890 hm (Dumler)
I to the Mantova / Gnifetti Hut
From Gressoney, Staffal, take the cableway to the Indren glacier. The first cableway brings you to the middle station of Alpe Gabiet (there is a bar- restaurant called Rifugio Lys) a few minutes from the Gabiet Lake. The second cableway brings you to direct to Passo Salati, where you can find the new lift to Punta Indren (3250m).
From here you have to walk: you have to cross the glacier, therefore crampons are advised.
From the lift, follow the track that crosses the glacier, and in about 20 minutes you reach the place where the track splits in two, a low and a high track. Follow the low one until the end of the glacier. Go beyond a rock with fixed ropes (15 meters), than climb up again and and shortly the Mantova hut is reached. It takes about an hour from the lift to the hut.
If you choose the high track (you have to consider the season and the snow conditions), climb up slightly. When the snow ends, you go on a mixed path (earth, rocks and snow) and after a few bends you reach an equiped path. The fixed ropes and steps made with wooden trunks make your ascent of this steep section easier. When you reach the top of this path you see on the left, below, the Mantova hut. The duration is about 1 hour.
Coming from Alagna
From Alagna take the cableway system to Passo Salati (it consists of two sections: the cableway (1st part) to Pianalunga and then the cableway that bring you to the Passo Salati (2nd part). From here it is a 100m walk to the new Punta Indren cableway. Once reached Indren (3250m) you follow the same path as described above.
Otherwise, from Gabiet, follow the old path 6a to reach the hut on a very safe and well-marked path. The last part of the path is on stony ground.
The way from Gabiet to Mantova hut takes about 4-5 hours. To reach the Gnifetti Hut you have to cross the Garstelet glacier. This will take up to 45 minutes longer.
II to the Quintino Sella Hut
III to the Monte Rosa Hut
The route crosses the junction of the Gorner and Grenz Glaciers, before following the eastern flank of the Grenz Glacier. The route leaves the ice and goes over into a marked trail, which goes straight up to the Monte Rosa hut. Total time is about 3 hours from Rotenboden.
How to get there
How to get to Zermatt: Click Here
How to get to Alagna: Click Here
How to get to Gressoney: Click Here
When to climb
|Publisher||Name||Author||Year (last Print) ||ISBN / EAN|
|Rother Verlag||Hochtouren Westalpen Band I||Wolfgang Pusch||2015||9783763330287|
|Rother Verlag||Viertausender der Alpen||Helmut Dumler||2014||9783763374311|
|Rother Verlag||The High mountains of the Alps||Helmut Dumler||1994||9780898863789|
|Idea Montagna||4000m peaks of the Alps||Marco Romelli||2015||9788897299585|
|Rother Verlag||Walliser Alpen Skitourenfuhrer||Daniel Haussinger||2012||9783763359301|
|Topo Verlag||Walliser Alpen||Daniel Silbernagel||2016||9783033024311|
|Bruckmann Verlag||4000er Tourenfuhrer||Richard Goedeke||2015||9783765457616 |
|Type||Name||Scale||ISBN / EAN||Additional Info.|
|Schweizer Landeskarte ||5006 Matterhorn Michabel ||1:50.000||9783302050065 |
|Instituto Geografico Centrale||109 Monte Rosa Alagna||1:25.000||9788896455395||Covers the entire area|
|Schweizer Landeskarte||1348 Zermatt||1:25.000||9783302013480||Covers the Swiss side|
|Schweizer Landeskarte||2515 Zermatt Gornergrat||1:25.000||9783302025155||Covers the Swiss side|
|Kompass Map||117 Zermatt Saas Fee||1:50.000||9783850269261||Covers the Swiss side|
|Schweizer Landeskarte||294 Gressoney||1:50.000||9783302002941||Covers the Italian side|
Additions and Corrections[ Post an Addition or Correction ]