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Lyskamm Traverse (W-E)

Lyskamm Traverse (W-E)

Lyskamm Traverse (W-E)

Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Lyskamm Traverse (W-E)

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: ZS / AD (II-III)

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: oxygen11

Created/Edited: Aug 28, 2006 / Aug 29, 2006

Object ID: 220120

Hits: 8551 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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The Ridge

From W-Summit walk mostly on the razor sharp ridge to the Col de Lis (ca. 4417m, not on maps) in 1-1.5hrs. In the begin, some relatively easy yet quite exposed rock climbing. Either climb directly over the rocks, or climb around on the right (south) side. Almost never walk in the snowy parts of the sout face. At one point, some traces may lead around a small (3m diameter) plateau kind of rock. Easier to climb over it.

2nd half down to col is snowy and/or icy. Be extremely careful of corniches. They can be massive, hard to see and ocassionally grow in both directions. When really icy this route can become very delicate, as the faces are indeed steep to both sides and do not allow mistakes. Use screws if in slightest doubt.

From the col, the ridge gets wider and leads relatively easy the 110m up to the East-summit in 15-20 mins. Again, watch out for corniches on the top end!

Descent down to Lisjoch: A few easy rocks take you onto the E-ridge, which becomes extremely thin again.  
Walking along the knife-edge...
(image borrowed from member iluka) Remain highly focussed for this 1hr descent, once more being careful with those corniches. Stay on the ridge all the way down to the plateau See E-summit route

Note: the difficulty (ZS, III) really depends a lot on the conditions. If all icy, it can become more demanding.

Getting There

Way up to West summit.

Route Description

route is obvious as per above.

Can easily be done in both directions.

Descent from W-summit can be failry unpleasant when icy, as very steep.

Essential Gear

Rope, Harness, 2x Ice Screws, Crampons, Standard Axe

External Links

Add External Links text here.