Eagle Grove Rock, 5.6-5.12d

Overview/Approach

End of a long day, tons of sun and medicinal supplements lent doubt to where we were and what we were climbing the first visit to Eagle Grove.  First route I led there was Heel Thyself, 5.11a***, and I thought I was leading Piglet Tiptoes, 5.9*, on Heffalump.  I remember remarking to Danny that I thought it was stiff for a City 5.9?.   I have long admired this "banana split" shaped stone located at the far-east reaches of Castle Rocks.   For such a small formation, it harbors some of the harder fine routes at Castle Rocks including Lollypop Lambchop, 5.12d***, Wings of Wax, 5.12c**** and Arc'teryx Project (rating not published as of 2020).   As alluded to above, Heel Thyself, is no question the easist 5.11a sport climb I have ever laid hands on.  L'Eagelize, 5.10b**, is a decent two pitch mixed route.  The sport route Jolly Rancher, 5.10a***, gets high praise from the local guide but I thought it was just ok.  This is a feature you must summit and if you have a 3rd in the party, have them take a pic of you atop the banana!  Routes face all directions, so a good one to move around on if chasing or avoiding the sun.  

Eagle Grove's east face overlooks the beautiful Eagle Grove, a small wetland sanctuary (polluted with cows from time to time) to the east.  There are two fixed anchors allowing for a single rope rap down the northeast side.  

The approach is relatively short thus making Eagle Grove a good start or finish destination at Castle Rocks. We climbed on Comp Wall all day on my first visit and then finished on Eagle Grove on the way out. Hike down the road from the ranch house trail-head parking.  Turn right in front of Shark's Fin and follow the trail to Fence Line Rock.  Turn right again (do not go through the gate on your left)  and follow the trail past the south end of Heffalump and turn right to locate a bridge across the creek (swollen in the spring time).  Eagle Grove is the last formation within park boundries to the east.  The only significant rock feature further east of Heffalump is a smaller formation located in the center of the lush Eagle Grove. A fence separates Eagle Grove from Heffalump’s east face. 

West Face, Routes are Listed Left to Right

L’Eagelize, 5.10b**/ Listed as a two-pitch route in the guide, I led it as one.  If you follow this example you will have significant rope drag at the crux bolted face moves above.  Locate a right facing rat infested corner at the north end of the northwest face.  A short layback gets you started and then easy climbing leads out of the corner, nothing above 5.9.  I placed one piece on the first pitch to try and avoid rope drag.  Then up easy angled plated ground to below a steep bolted face.  Climb at the grade through three bolts to the bolted lower angled slab shared finish used by routes on the north east face, to the summit anchor.  Two single rope raps to the ground.  Small selection of medium gear.  200'. Dow

Wings of Wax, 5.12c****/

Arc'teryx Project, ?/

South Face

Aguila, 5.6**/ Don’t understand the “stars” in the local guide.  A relatively contrived route up a short steep wall through a bolt and then on to 5th class climbing to a fixed rap on the above wall.  Soloed the route but only saw two bolts vs three as the guide suggests. Dow

East Face

Lollypop Lambchop, 5.12d***/

Fool Value, 5.9**/

My Corona, 5.7**/ Not sure about the “two star” recommendation in the local guide.  Secure solo and easy climbing for the grade.  Start in the chimney and trend up left to follow the bolts to the top of the wall and fixed rap.  Dow

Jolly Rancher, 5.10a***/The guide has this route broken up into two pitches which is not necessary.  When I first climbed it, I thought I was on a 5.9 on a different feature and my notes were that I thought it was soft for that grade, much less 5.10a. Follow the left side bolted arete to a fixed rap.  Dow

Heel Thyself, 5.11a***/ That this could be a 5.11 route anywhere is a joke.  That it gets three stars in the local guide is baffling.  It does have one fun 5.10- move.  When I originally led it, I thought I was on a 5.9 on a nearby feature.  I wrote it up as stating that it was stiff for a 5.9 at the City, but it is no 5.11a either.  Climb the overly bolted right side arete right next to a tree.  Rap off of Jolly Ranchers’ mid anchor.  Dow