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Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)
Mountain/Rock

Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)

 
Eissee-Spitze  (Punta del Lago Gelato)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Bolzano, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.47865°N / 10.60910°E

Object Title: Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)

County: Alto Adige/Sud Tirol

Activities: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10597 ft / 3230 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Feb 24, 2012 / Aug 21, 2014

Object ID: 777954

Hits: 2157 

Page Score: 88.61%  - 27 Votes 

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Overview

 
Eissee Spitze
Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato


 
View on Venezia Subgroup
 
 
Panoramic View on Ortles - Gran Zebrù Subgroup
 


Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato) m. 3230


Inside Ortles-Cevedale Group, Vertana-Angelo-Lasa Subgroup, we can realize a fine ascent on Eissee-Spitze, or Punta del Lago Gelato, a minor but very interesting peak rising between Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) m. 3139 and Cima Pozzo (Butzen-Spitze) m. 3300, on the 7 km. long ridge known as Costiera del Madriccio, running from Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) to Passo
dello Scudo (Schild-Joch) and separating the upper Val di Lasa (Laaser Tal) on the West side from the
upper Val Martello (Martell Tal) on the East.
Several other peaks are situated along this ridge, like Cima Pozzo, Cima Madriccio, Punta Beltovo di Dentro, Punta Peder di Dentro and Punta delle Laste.
The origin of the place-name “Lago Gelato”, which means Frozen Lake, is unknown. The peak is surrounded by several important summits, like the superb Gran Zebrù, Monte Zebrù, Ortles and Sulden-Spitze: from the top we can enjoy a wide view on these peaks and on numberless other summits inside Ortles-Cevedale Group, like the ridge Martello-Venezia-Marmotta and Madriccio Ridge.
The most known route is the one situated in the Solda Valley’s side, because of the route is quickly approached by a cableway starting from Solda. The fine one rises from Nino Corsi Hut, situated in upper Martello Valley, inside a wild and peaceful environment.

Getting There

 
Eissee Spitze and upper Martell Tal map
Eissee Spitze and upper Val Martello map
ROAD ACCESS

To Nino Corsi Hut - From A22 Brennero Motorway exit to Bolzano and follow the road 38 towards Merano and Val Venosta as far as Coldrano m. 672; here leave the main road turning left and following the road entering Val Martello (Martell Tal) and leading to Paradiso del Cevedale m. 2050 where the road ends (Km. 81 from Bolzano).

To Solda – From A22 Brennero Motorway exit to Bolzano and follow SS 38 towards Merano. Enter Val Venosta and keep the main road as far as Spondigna. Here turn to left and follow the road to Stelvio Pass, reaching the little village of Gomagoi. Here leave the main road to Stelvio Pass and turn to left following the road n. 622 entering Val di Solda and leading to Solda m. 1907 (Km. 95 from Bolzano).

APPROACH TO NINO CORSI HUT

Nino Corsi Hut (Zufall-Hutte) m. 2265 is situated very close to Paradiso del Cevedale. From here a very good path leads to the refuge in half an hour.

Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato main routes overview

 
Climbing Frozen Lake Peak
Sunrise on Eissee Spitze
 
Eissee Spitze NE summit ridge
Eisse Spitze summit ridge


NW Ridge - Stecknersteig

Difficulty: F+
Length: 630 m.
Exposure: NW, then NE
Starting point: Solda Cableway upper Station 2600 m., 2,30 by walking from Solda


An easy and panoramic route.

The route is dedicated to Albert Steckner who in 1895 financed the route’s setting to permit an easy access to the summit and to the little refuge Halle, built on Eisseepass , destroyed during the First Mondial War and no more reconstructed.
The starting point is from Solda Cableway upper station 2600 m. It’s possible overnight at Città di Milano Hut, situated below the Cableway upper station. From the station follow the track towards South and reach a fork; follow the left trail (marks “Stecknersteig”), scrambling along scree and blocks on NW ridge – some climbing steps – and reaching the NE ridge’s ending section. Follow it to the summit cairn.
Descent: following the same route

NE Ridge

Difficulty: F+
Length: 1000 m.
Exposure: NE
Starting point: Nino Corsi Hut, half an hour by walking from Paradiso del Cevedale


A very interesting route, alternating easy rocky steps with ice slopes.

From Nino Corsi Hut follow the good path (marks to Martello Hut); at the stones’dam don’t follow on the left the path towards Martello Hut, but carry on the main path n. 150, reaching a lake situated near the Pozzo Valley’s exit. The path heads towards the crevassed Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner); before getting to the glacier’s starting point leave the main path and head to the right, walking towards a light hollow below the North-East Ridge, between Punta del Lago Gelato on the left and Cima Pozzo on the right. Scramble on the ridge, alternating snow-slopes with some steps of easy rock climbing, leading to the summit signal.
The view is very interesting on numberless summits inside the wide Ortles-Cevedale group and in particular on the group’s main summits: Ortles and Gran Zebrù.

Descent: following the ascent’s route.


NE Ridge – SE Ridge Crossing

This crossing involves some easy rocky steps descending along SE ridge, which leads to Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner). A short final glacier’s crossing along the left orographic edge of the crevassed Vedretta Lunga - rope up, the glacier is not to be taken lightly – leads to the path n.150.

Red Tape

The environment: a glacial lake and Venezia Sub group
The environment: a glacial lake and Venezia Sub group
Eissee Spitze seen from Costiera di Madriccio
Eissee Spitze seen from Costiera di Madriccio
Eissee Spitze (Cima del Lago Gelato) - Getting to the top
Summit


No fees or permits needed to climb Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato. The mountain is located inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineer's peacefulness with every kind of noise.


Please respect the following rules in Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio:

Huts

 
Nino Corsi Hut and Zufritt See
Nino Corsi Hut
-Nino Corsi Hut (Zufall-Hutte) m. 2265 - C.A.I. Milano – ½ hour from Paradiso del Cevedale- Phone 0039-0472-632472, 109 beds, open from middle june to middle September

RIFUGIO NINO CORSI

-Città di Milano Hut (Schaubach-Hutte) m. 2581 situated on the right lateral moraine of the Sulden-Ferner Glacier. Cableway from Solda m. 1907.

RIFUGIO CITTA' DI MILANO

Essential gear

Rope, ice-axe and crampons

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to middle September.

Meteo

METEO BOLZANO ALTO ADIGE

METEO ALTO ADIGE

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

“Ortles-Cevedale – Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio” by Gino Buscaini – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

“Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo” by Hanspaul Menara – Ed. Athesia


Maps

“Ortles-Cevedale” , foglio 72 - Kompass 1:50.000
"Ortles-Cevedale" - Tabacco

External Links

PARCO NAZIONALE DELLO STELVIO

Images