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Cornwall
International Trad Climb Meet, May 2013 Cornwall International Trad Climb Meet, May 2013  by AlbertoRampini

To improve climbing practice and sharing experiences is one of the best mission of mountaineering associations in the whole world. Since a lot of time ago, British Mountaineering Council (BMC) every year organizes different international climbing meets, both on rock and ice. Also other Clubs organize international meets, such as American Alpine Club and, since 2010, Club Alpino Accademico Italiano. During the meet's weeklong run, climbers coming from various Associations, Clubs and Mountaineering Federations throughout the world meet and stay together to share experiences, often quite different and so very interesting and important to develope and increase technical ability and ethical maturity. On the middle week of last month of May (12–19 may 2013) BMC organized the International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet in Cornwall, based in the shelter named "The Count House", near Penzance, West Cornwall, situated about 220 miles from Bristol. Many climbing federations in the world were invited to send confirmate climbers (one each nation).

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Summitpost
Bulk Uploader Summitpost Bulk Uploader  by mvs

ANNOUNCING a Windows-based Summitpost Bulk Uploader for your images. This article contains all the information you need to use it.

I love Summitpost. But individually uploading 10-15 images for a trip report was getting old. Sites like Flickr offer several nice ways to quickly upload your images, and even extract title and description from embedded metadata! So I started to use that. At the same time I felt bad because then my images aren't on Summitpost for mix-n-match inclusion in Mountain, Area or Route pages by other authors.

So I hunkered down and came up with this tool. My hope is that it will encourage people who, like me, started yawning and sneaking away to watch TV when they contemplated the manual work involved in uploading each picture. That is the drudge-work of content creation! Of course you want to do some actual climbing sometimes too!

I'm not affiliated with Summitpost other than being a member. So it's not an official tool. In fact the folks who run the site are a little worried about this thing. They are afraid that if people have this tool they'll get lazy and upload crap "willy-nilly" rather than carefully chosing what pictures are worth sharing with the rest of the world.

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The project: The project: "Work Less, live more"  by PAROFES

It is quite important to work less so you can have a pretty important quality of life, spend more time with family and friends. Don’t beat yourself up 24/7 on the damn race for money and “stability”, that’s absolutly not good for health and you can find yourself on a hospital bed in no time. My father had a similar problem when he was 29. He was the “big head” of the financial department on a big brazilian company. Coming home late every day, working too hard, a couple flights every week, so one day his body said “no more, I just can’t take it no more” and he colapsed on his desk while working. He woke up on the hospital, turns out he suffered a small heart attack and got a “wake up call” so to speak. Had to go on a severe diet, quit the job and relaxed for at least three months.

I am 33 now and thinking about that back in 2009 I feard for my health as well. So decide to resign was pretty much easy for me. I NEEDED a time off. So I got it.

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Foehn effect Foehn effect  by visentin

Foehn, or Föhn in German, refer to a warm southerly wind coming over the Alps. However, the word is nowadays used to describe similar meteorological effects on all mountains all over the world.

For the anecdote, some time ago, the AEG german brand used "Fön" as a name for their electrical hairdriers. Subsequently that brand name has replaced the generic word and is now used in german for all electrical hairdriers.

Coming back to to topic, many mountaineers often use the expression "effect of Foehn" without really knowing its meaning. Let's try to understand how this phenomenon is working.

We have a mass of humid air that arrives on a mountainside. Let's take an hermetic mountain range oriented from East to West; The Pyrenees make a perfect example. Most of the time, when the Foehn occurs, this mass of humid air comes from the Spanish side and the South. This wind finds the mountain range on its way and is forced to follow its route, rising in order to avoid the obstacle and get to the other side.

While rising along the mountain slopes, in contact with the ground and by the cooling effect (adiabatic expansion: the highest, the coldest), it gets colder.

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Missing Person Matthew
Greene Missing Person Matthew Greene  by adamfaller

Peak Baggers in the Central Sierra Nevada: Please help locate a missing climber. Climber Matt Greene has been overdue since 17 July 2013, and you can assist in the search effort.

If you summit any peak located in the general area between Tom's Place and Lee Vining, please carefully examine the summit register for Matt Greene's name on the dates of 15-19 July 2013. Remember that summit registers can be disorganized, and several log books may be present. Note that we want to hear from you whether or not you see his name; the absence of his name on a given peak is useful also.

Please report your results to Mono County Sheriff Search and Rescue Team at MosarOps@gmail.com. If you don't have email access, then please leave a phone message at: 760-566-6727.

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Frostbite Frostbite  by reboyles

I was reluctant to ever publish these pictures because I thought they were a bit shocking and frankly, I looked at them long enough during the healing process to never want to see them again. However, I think there might be some value in relating my experience to those who are ever so unfortunate as to suffer from frostbite.

Over the years I heard about all kinds of treatment for frostbite like rubbing the frozen parts vigorously to soaking in warm water and even a few "old wives" tales of balms and natural potions. In my case, I faced the immediate amputation of parts of three toes since the standard of the day called for this in order to prevent gangrene.

Fortunately, I was familiar with the work of Dr Cameron Bangs and his treatment of frostbite so I waited a few months before I went under the knife. If I recall, the advice was something like this: "delay surgery until you can determine the line of demarcation". During this time I carefully tended my feet daily and kept a watchful eye for any sign of infection. Frostbite injury is very similar to a burn with varying degrees of severity from first degree to third, the difference being the depth of damage.

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Retrievable Rappel Anchor Retrievable Rappel Anchor  by Scott

This method is used for clean rappeling anchors and avoids leaving any webbing/slings behind. In some areas, leaving rap anchors is illegal. It is always a good idea to leave as little behind as possible.

This method can be modified for pitons/bolted anchors as well. This is just for fun and clean climbing ethics most of the time. No one has to use the method.

EDITOR'S NOTE: Even if you aren't planning to use retreivable rappel anchors, you've at least got to watch this little cardboard cutout do his descent!

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I Know What
A Foot Is!!! I Know What A Foot Is!!!  by swm88er

How should we measure our mountains...meters or feet? I have grown up in Colorado and I’m partial to my American units, but even though I live in America, I’ve been using SI units ever since entering public school. Not long ago I was reading Gerry Roach’s Colorado’s Fourteeners guide book and found, in the appendix, a few paragraphs titled In Defense of Feet. As I read the article, I found myself laughing in agreement.

The metre, or meter, came about in the late 1700’s (in and around the time of the French Revolution). At this time, the units of measurement in France were an absolute mess, with standard lengths of measurement varying from city to city. The French realized their dilemma and decided to try to fix the problem, leaving the issue in the hands of the Academy of Science in Paris.

They came up with several proposals, but none of them were very popular and the Academy left the decision to a bunch of scientists. That group decided to set the distance they called a metre as one ten-millionth of the distance from the pole to the equator at sea-level, or as Roach says “ 1,553,164.13 times the wavelength of the red cadmium line in air under 760 millimeters of pressure at 15 degrees Centigrade.” What!?!?!

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Mountain
meteorology of Scotland Mountain meteorology of Scotland  by Proterra

Although the Scottish mountains are small by global, or even European standards, they pose a specific set of hazards, not commonly found in mountains of similar stature. An average of one-third to a half of all incidents requiring a mountain rescue call out in this country are attributed to weather, as well as poor planning and meteorological skills on the part of the people involved. In this article I'll try to explain the specifics of Scotland's mountain climatology and topography, and what effect this has on it's meteorology.

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Water, How Much is Too
Much? Water, How Much is Too Much?  by FlatheadNative

Water Intoxication is also known as hyperhydration or hyponatremia. Hyper and Hypo are both Latin prefixes. Hyper means “excessive” and hydration refers to “the process of providing an adequate amount of liquid to bodily tissues.” Hypo means “less than normal” and natremia means “the presence of sodium in urine”.

Sodium (or salt) helps regulate the body’s fluids. Water intoxication occurs when the body’s most important electrolyte, sodium, is too quickly diluted by consuming large amounts of water in a short duration of time. This causes the cells in the body to swell and malfunction.

Essentially when large amounts of liquids are placed in the body in a short duration of time the kidneys fail to keep up to the demands that it can normally keep up to in the every day routine. This causes an imbalance in the concentration of electrolytes in the blood as well as an excess of blood volume. This causes excess water to enter the blood stream and the cells swell.

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