Fiesta Spire, 5.10a-5.10b

Overview/Approach

The guidebook's GPS coordinates were not even close and I am not going to bet the farm mine are exact either, but they are much closer than the guide.  Fiesta is not a large formation (but worthy destination for trad climbers for sure) and is therefore difficult to pick out via Google Earth.  I used the old guide on a rainy day years ago and its directional text was ill written to say the least, and using the new guide book, the author was apparently too lazy to correct anything although in his defense, I doubt he ever climbed here to begin with.  The guidebooks most egregious directional error is “soon the trail passes close to the top of a rock formation on the right, then switchbacks back right to its base”.  In reality, once you pass through the top of this rock formation, just continue on the trail as it heads east and continues to descend.  Fiesta’s northwest face (photo) will come into view and soon after that you will leave the trail for a short section of hiking southeast to the base of it.

Tickled Pink, 5.10a***, and Fiesta, 5.10b***, are two of the better 5.10- trad leads in the park.  Tickled Pink starts up a fun right facing corner on the right side of the northwest face and pulls a relatively easy roof to bolted face climbing above.   Fiesta is no more difficult a climb despite the grade and is pure trad up intermittent cracks on stellar rock that lead to a fun left leaning hand crack.  There is one fixed rap atop the formation that allows you to rap/set up top rope for any of the four climbs.  Obviously this is a shady destination.

Park at the water pump and ascend the North Fork Trail across the road.  After the switchbacks, you pass through a cattle gate and into open meadows.  Continue on this rim trail overlooking the City and descend east (stay right at the fork) through another cattle gate and pass a cattle spring fed trough right next to the trail.  When this trail passes the top of a significant rock formation on its right, continue east and Fiesta’s NW face (photo) will come into view.  Continue descending the trail until it makes sense to leave it on the left side for the base of the formation. One hour +/-.

Listed Right to Left as you Face the NW Face

Tickled Pink- 75’-5.10a***/ One of the finer, more diversified climbs at the grade in the City.  Start up the crack/corner below the roof on the right side of the northwest wall.  Some strenuous hands get you to below the roof.  Under cling out right and pull the right end via positive holds.  Traverse back left on the upper face to align with the bolted finish.  At about the 2nd bolt is the crux technical move at the grade on edges/face.  Single rack to C4#2 plus 3 or 4 clips to the shared fixed anchor atop the formation.  Dow

Fiesta- 75’-5.10b***/ The namesake route on this formation is listed in the guide (index section) as the best 5.10b trad climb in the park and I agree.  The first several meters are below the grade and then it gets sustained fingers that lead to an awkward mantle via fingers (the crux).  The top third opens up to off centered hands (crescent shaped crack) to the top.  Very cool crack line that takes good gear through thoughtful climbing at the grade.  Single rack to C4#3 with offset cams/wires to supplement.  All four routes on this north face share the same fixed anchor.  Dow

Dancin’ on Diamonds- 75’-5.10a**/ The guide calls this a face climb, but it is another pure crack climb on the formation just left of the Fiesta crack and does wander more.  It involves a few face moves but essentially follows a finger crack with a few hand pockets to the top.  All gear, single rack to C4#2.  Much easier for the grade compared to Tickled Pink.  Same shared anchor.  Dow

Pinata- 75’-5.10a*/ This route gets the lower end of accolades on Fiesta Spire.  It is not near as sustained or aesthetic as the other three on the north face. Located on the far left side, climb the true hand crack up to a ledge.  The crux of the route is the short remaining face above:  a slightly overhanging hand crack in chossy rock.  I soloed the route except for one piece in this section.  Single rack to C4#2.  Same shared anchor.  Dow