Getting ThereFirst Pinnacle Rib is located on Tryfan's East Face and takes a direct line up the mountain's Central Buttress. Conveniently, Tryfan is located very close to the A5, so there are no tedious sections of asphalt on the approach.
Although there is plenty of parking along the A5, the most convenient car park for this route is the Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite (SH 672 604). There will be a £1 charge for parking here.
From the car park walk down the track to the camp site, cross the stile behind the farm houe and turn right. Walk down the track and cross another stile. Shortly afterwards a smaller path bears of left towards Tryfan Bach. Follow the smaller path to Tryfan Bach, but rather than continuing up the valley, climb the slope on the opposite side onto the Heather Terrace. Follow the Heather Terrace along Tryfan's flank, after around a kilometre you will reach a boulder with SPR etched onto it. This marks the start of Second Pinnacle Rib. Ignore this and continue on to a second boulder with FPR etched onto it - this is the start of the route (SH 664 592).
Route DescriptionPitch 1 (30m): Start at the boulder with FPR etched into it some 20 metres to the left of a grassy bay and to the right of a scree gully. Climb the slab and exit right at the overhang. Follow a cracked groove to the right which leads to the broad slabby ridge. Belay where the ridge begins to steepen.
Pitch 2 (80m): Follow the ridge placing belays where necessary until you reach the obvious and eponymous pinnacle itself.
Pitch 3 (15m): Now you will be faced with the wonderful but polished Yellow Slab. Start just to the right of a break up its centre and ascend it delicately for 3m until a groove on the right is reached and followed to a stance. The pitch can be avoided and climbed more easily on the left.
Pitch 4 (35m): Climb the curved cracks to the left until easier ground is reached. Blay below a steep wall.
Pitch 5 (25m): There are two choices here. Either climb easily to the right, or tackle the rather brutish Thompson's Chimney (Severe). For the latter option, ascend the initial chimney, move right and finish up the remaining chimney to a path.
Essential GearAlthough when I did the route we climbed with double ropes a single one will probably suffice. A moderate rack of wires, hexes and cams will be necessary and be sure to have some small wires for the Yellow Slab. As this is Wales, be sure to bring along your waterproofs and some warm clothing.
Government Bodies and Official Organisations
Snowdonia National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Conwy County Council
Gwynedd County Council
Powys County Council
Countryside Council for Wales
Forestry Commission Wales
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archaeological Trust
The National Trust
Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering Organisations and Companies
British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
Weather Channel UK
North Wales Tourism Partnership
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index
Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable
Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Maps and Guidebooks
Harvey Map Services
Climbers Club Guidebooks
North Wales Bouldering
Mid Wales Climbing
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop
Wildlife and Conservation
Joint Nature Conservation Committee
North Wales Wildlife Trust
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon