Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
53.08330°N / 4.2167°W |
Route Type:
|
Traditional Rock Climb |
|
Time Required:
|
Half a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
Severe |
|
Approach
Traverse the East Fase along the glaciated ledge of Heather Terrace to the base of Grooved Arete.The base of the climb is well marked with a large GA scratched into the rock wall at the start, to the right of North Gully
Route Description
The first pitch throws the climber right into the character of the route with a steep polished groove. Not to worry though, a small chock stone awaits the fingertips at the back of the crack, to ease the struggle and soon the first difficulties are over. Upon reaching the large spike above on the left, a distinct arete rises above. From the top of this pitch a short walk of ten yards brings you to the base of the steep Terrace Wall.
The impending wall above meets the edge of Bastow Gully with a defined groove of 100ft or more. The lower 60ft leads one into a false sense of security whilst the upper section is a real test of nerve. If the leader falters on this pitch, he will wonder "what on earth am I doing here, when I could be decorating that cupboard under the stairs at home”. The groove steepens until a delicate left step secures the way to the Haven, which is the final respite before the crux ‘Knights Move”.
The ‘Knights Move” is the move to climb up the wall and across the slab, so called because of the three moves up and two across that the Knight would move on a chess board.
If your going to hit a back log of climbers this is where it will happen and as you wait, thoughts of retreat may enter the head accompanied by glances for ways off this mighty wall. In dry weather we found the crux to be very enjoyable with tremendous exposure once on the slab, but acceptable for the grade (HVD). A small exposed stance is the reward for overcoming the crux and the old saying of “two’s company and three’s a crowd” fits perfectly.
The final chimney is not without problems but the promise of a walk off or on a good day a final pitch up the back wall will ease the burden.
 |
Essential Gear
50 metre rope, and a rack of Hexs and wires.
Dont forget your helmet.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.