Flaming Rock, 5.7-5.12a

Overview/Approach

(ABOVE PHOTO=TRIBAL BOUNDARIES) Flaming Rock is too busy of a destination for my taste at the City.  Its ease of access from several trail heads makes several of its routes popular objectives (hangouts).  The most popular two include a sport route by the name of Tribal Boundaries, 5.10-****, and an easy two pitch lead (good solo candidate) by the name of Raindance, 5.7***.  These two routes represent two different walls on Flaming Rock.  Raindance faces Southcreek and is just as easily reached from Parking Lot Rock’s trail head. Tribal Boundaries is located on a patina featured wall that is best accessed from the trail head next to campsite #30.  I enjoyed Reservations, 5.10a**, more than Tribal but it use to be labeled as run out when I first led it and the updated guide version, utilizing my beta, has corrected that (it is not run out).  Raindance is a good (secure feeling) solo objective at the grade and has a decent sport route next to it, Tail Feather, 5.10a**, to make for a good combination.  Tail Feather, after one pitch, bleeds into Raindance if you want to continue to the top of the formation.  The previous guide versions label this route as a top rope only, but it is fully bolted as of 2018.

Park at either one of two trail heads, near Campsite #30 or at Parking Lot Rock.  If at Parking Lot Rock, simply make your way down South Creek Trail until the obvious north buttress (Raindance) of Flaming Rock is on your right.  Cross the creek and meander up to the base.  Tail Feature is located just meters to the left.  If heading for Tribal, park at the trail head next to Campsite #30 and descend the trail to the south end of Flaming Rock.  The heavily featured south and west faces of Flaming Rock (photo) are hard to miss.

Routes Listed Left to Right Starting with the Overhung West Face, Narrow (heavily featured) South Face and then another (heavily featured) West Face

Lower West Face

Tither’s Jam- 110’-5.11a*/

Firewater- 80’-5.11b***/ (fully bolted)

Quest for Fire- 80’-5.10c**/ (fully bolted)

South Face

Tribal Boundaries- 70’-5.10-****/The local guide has this route touted as being better than it is. The position of this face is fun with great views, but the route seemed fairly mediocre to me compared to many others in the park.  I enjoyed the mix lead (Reservations) to the right more.  Dow

Reservations- 70’-5.10a**/ For the experienced trad leader, this is not run out at all as the local guide use to suggest.  I found plenty of gear. Cruxy in the middle, laid back beginning and end. I enjoyed it more than Tribal.  Dow

Warrior Eyes, 5.7+X/ Why this route is rated “X” makes no sense.  First of all the corner, which takes ample gear, makes for a far better lead at the grade than the face out right.  Second, even if you insisted in not climbing the corner, you can still use it to protect a face climb out right.  This route has its own fixed anchor, but it is a bit ancient as of 2020.  A suggested route for the budding trad leader at the grade.  Dow

Upper West Face

Smoke Signal- 70’-5.12a***/

Routes Listed Left to Right Starting with the Lower East Face to the North Face

Tail Feather- 70’-5.10a**/ Fully bolted.  Soft for the grade.  Climb quartzite laden features up the right side of a water runnel.  Traverse left and up on plates to an easy finish to a fixed rap.  Dow

Raindance- 2 Pitches- 5.7***/ Easy to lead for the competent party as one pitch to the top.  You pass two anchors midway.  You need double ropes to rap from the top anchor to either of these anchors, a 70m single does not make it (2015).  For a 5.7 leader at his/her max at the City (typically soft), the first several meters of this climb might be challenging (route finding; side pulls) at the grade, then it bust wide open to 5th class scoops forever to the top.  Worth doing for the summit/viewpoint alone.  Dow

Pygmies in a Vice- 5.9/

City Girls- 5.10c**/ (fully bolted)