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The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)
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The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)

 
The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no <b>(Cogne Valley)</b>

Page Type: List

Location: Aosta Valley, Italy, Europe

Object Title: The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no (Cogne Valley)

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: May 14, 2013 / Sep 30, 2013

Object ID: 849502

Hits: 1375 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview


The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 3500 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the impressive Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and almost as impressive; Herbetet, Aiguille de Trélatête, Grivola, Mont Vélan, Becca di Luseney and many others.

La Valle d'Aosta (Italia), è una delle più famose e belle regioni di montagna del mondo. Contiene molte montagne imponenti come il Monte Bianco, il Monte Rosa, il Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e il Gran Paradiso. Esistono però anche moltissime vette di oltre 3.500 metri molto conosciute dagli alpinisti come l'imponente Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, l'Herbetet, l'Aiguille de Trélatête, la Grivola, il Mont Vélan, la Becca di Luseney e molte altre.

Champorcher and Cogne Valley


 
Punte Patrì
Punte Patrì 3581/3561m






PUNTE PATRI' 3581m-3561m

    First ascent Punta Meridionale (3581m S-W Slope) from Valnontey: A., C., A. e G. Sella, J. J. Maquignaz and J. B. Bich, (Aug 07th, 1881).
    First ascent Punta Settentrionale (3561m N Arête) from Valnontey: G. P. Baker, J. Yeld, B. and E. Pession, (Aug 16th 1910).
    Difficulty: F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1900m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 8-9 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre di Sant Orso
Torre di Sant'Orso 3618m





TORRE DI SANT'ORSO 3618m
    First ascent normal route (W Wall) from Valnontey: E. T. Compton, G. Yeld, F. Pession, A. Pellissier and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 05th, 1892).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 2000m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 7,00-8,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre di Sant Andrea
Torre di Sant'Andrea 3651m






TORRE DI SANT'ANDREA 3651m
    First ascent Punta Meridionale (3644m) from Valnontey: G. Blanchetti and friend, (Aug 1881).
    First ascent Punta Settentrionale (3651m) from Valnontey: G. Stallard, L. Ormer, J. Ogi-Müller and A. Müller, (Aug 10th, 1891).
    Difficulty: PD/AD-.
    Difference in height: About 1985m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 7,00-8,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Torre del Gran San Pietro
Torre del Gran San Pietro 3692m






TORRE DEL GRAN SAN PIETRO 3692m
    First ascent normal route (W Slope and N Arête) from Valnontey: E. Carr and A. F. Mummery, (Aug 12th, 1891).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2050m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso del Money (2872m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, axe, crampons, helmet, a few rock and ice pegs (even if not used).



 
Roccia Viva
Roccia Viva 3650m






ROCCIA VIVA 3650m
    First ascent normal route from (E-SE W-SW Arête): W. A. B. Coolidge, F. Gardiner, C. and R. Almer, (Aug 17th, 1887).
    Difficulty: EEA/F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1862m (from Teleccio lake).
    Refuge: Pontese (2200m). Places when open: 70. Winter hut: 12 places. Bivacco fisso Gino Carpano (2865m), 5-7 places always open.
    Ascent time: 5,00-6,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Becca di Gay
Becca di Gay 3621m






BECCA DI GAY 3621m
    First ascent normal route: P. Gastaldi, V. Giordana, T. Cristen and G. Perotti, (Aug 20th, 1895).
    Difficulty: EEA/F+.
    Difference in height: About 1750m (from Teleccio lake).
    Refuge: Pontese (2200m). Places when open: 70. Winter hut: 12 places. Bivacco fisso Gino Carpano (2865m), 5-7 places always open.
    Ascent time: 5,00-5,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Testa della Tribolazione
Testa della Tribolazione 3642m






TESTA DELLA TRIBOLAZIONE 3642m
    First ascent normal route (W-SW Arête) from Valnontey: A. Holmes and W. A. Brigg, (Jul 18th, 1899).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 1950m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Punta di Ceresole
Punta di Ceresole 3777m






PUNTA DI CERESOLE 3777m
    First ascent normal route (E Ridge and N Side) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, Christian J. Almer and R. Almer, (Aug 13th, 1888).
    Difficulty: The route is rated from PD (a little difficult) to AD (rather difficult), depending on the mountain conditions.
    Difference in height: About 2111m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Cresta Gastaldi
Cresta Gastaldi 3894m






CRESTA GASTALDI 3894m
    First ascent normal route (W Ridge) from Valnontey: W A. B. Coolidge, G. Yeld, Christian Junior and R. Almer, (Aug 12th, 1888).
    Difficulty: The route is rated from PD (a little difficult) to AD (rather difficult), depending on the mountain conditions.
    Difference in height: About 2228m.
    Refuge: Bivacchi fissi Carlo Pol (3183m), 6 places, and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3200m), 9 places, located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
    Ascent time: 9,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Piccolo Paradiso
Piccolo Paradiso 3926m






PICCOLO PARADISO 3926m
    First ascent normal route (NE Wall) from Valnontey: G. Yeld, A. Payot and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 11th, 1879).
    Difficulty: The route can be classified as PD+ or AD- depending on mountain conditions, to be done only by experienced and trained climbers.
    Difference in height: About 2260m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge. Difficulty: E (Hikers). Reachable from Valnontey (see the following itinerary).
    Ascent time: 9,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment:High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons, helmet and torch.



 
Becca di Montandayné
Becca di Montandayné 3838m






BECCA DI MONTANDAYNÉ 3838m
    First ascent normal route (NE Wall) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, G. Yeld, C. Almer, S. Henry and G. Jeantet, (Aug 16th, 1883).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 2180m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.



 
Herbetet
Herbetet 3778m







HERBETET 3778m

    First ascent normal route (N-NE Edge) from Valnontey: W A. B. Coolidge, Christian Junior and R. Almer, (Aug 10th, 1888).
    Difficulty: PD+.
    Difference in height: About 2110m.
    Refuge: Fixed Bivouac Lucio and Lionello Leonessa (2910m), 12 places, near Herbetet's east ridge.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, helmet, crampons, and torch.



 
Gran Serra or Gran Sertz
Gran Serra or Gran Serz 3552m






GRAN SERRA or GRAN SERZ 3552m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: G. Yeld, A. Payot and L. Guichardaz, (Aug 09th, 1879).
    Difficulty: F+.
    Difference in height: About 1890m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 5,30-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Rossa della Grivola
Punta Rossa della Grivola 3630m






PUNTA ROSSA DELLA GRIVOLA 3630m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: H. F. Montgomery, S. Taylor and J. Tannler, (1864).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 1950m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places. Bivacco fisso Luciano Gratton (3198m), 9 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Nera della Grivola
Punta Nera della Grivola 3683m



PUNTA NERA DELLA GRIVOLA 3683m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: W. A. B. Coolidge, G Yeld, Christian J. and R. Almer, (Aug 08th, 1888).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 2000m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 6,30-7,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
Punta Bianca della Grivola
Punta Bianca della Grivola 3793m






PUNTA BIANCA DELLA GRIVOLA 3793m
    First on the summit (from S-W Arête) from Valnontey: P. B. Chamonin and A. J. Jantet, (Sep 21th, 1858).
    Difficulty: F+.
    Difference in height: About 2150m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2588m). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 7,30-8,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: rope, iceaxe, crampons.



 
La Grivola
La Grivola 3969m



GRIVOLA 3969m
    First ascent (SE Wall) from Valnontey: P. B. Chamonin and A. J. Jeantet, (Sep 09th, 1861).
    Difficulty: PD+AD-.
    Difference in height: About 2300m.
    Refuge: Vittorio Sella (2588). Places when open: 150. Winter hut: 35 places. Bivacco fisso Mario Balzola (3477m), 4 places.
    Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


Refuges telephone numbers


Books and Maps

BOOKS:

  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Gran Paradiso Parco Nazionale" E. Andreis, R. Chabod, M. C. Santis, Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, prima Ed. 1939; seconda Ed. 1963; terza Ed. 1980.
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" di G. Berruto, volume 2° Ed. I.G.C. Torino 1981, 2000.
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
  • "Gran Paradiso" A. Gegenfurtner, G. Klotz, F. Müller, Ed. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Monaco 1980 (in tedesco).
  • "Gran Paradiso" G. Klotz Ed. Bergverlag GmbH Rother, Monaco 2005 (in tedesco).
  • "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta", di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio, Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2013 (inediti).

MAPS:

  • Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta" Sentieri e rifugi-Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Gran Paradiso La Grivola Cogne" Carta 1:25.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • I.G.M. Istituto Geografico Militare Foglio 41 "Gran Paradiso-Cogne" 1:25.000.
  • AIAT Cogne "Gran Paradiso" Cogne Aymavilles-Walking map 1:25.000.
  • Enrico Editore Ivrea "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna "Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Valle di Cogne Carta dei Sentieri" (n°10) 1:25.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Tour de la Vallée de Cogne Grand Paradis" Carta dei sentieri 1:25.000.

Important Information

Useful numbers

  • Soccorso Alpino Cogne (SAR) Tel. 3482685406.
  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Images