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The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no

 
<font color=blue>▲</font>The famous 3500m in the Aosta Valley and the normal route or no

Page Type: List

Location: Italy Aosta Valley - France Haute Savoie - Suisse Martigny/Zermatt, Italy, Europe

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Jul 18, 2009 / May 16, 2013

Object ID: 530655

Hits: 9595 

Page Score: 91.13%  - 34 Votes 

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Overview

UNDER CONSTRUCTION


The Aosta Valley (Italy) is one of the most famous and beautiful mountainous countries in the world. It holds many impressive mountains like Monte Bianco, Monte Rosa, Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and Gran Paradiso. But there are also many 3500 meters peaks which are well known all over the world: For example the impressive Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and almost as impressive; Herbetet, Aiguille de Trélatête, Grivola, Mont Vélan, Becca di Luseney and many others.

La Valle d'Aosta (Italia), è una delle più famose e belle regioni di montagna del mondo. Contiene molte montagne imponenti come il Monte Bianco, il Monte Rosa, il Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) e il Gran Paradiso. Esistono però anche moltissime vette di oltre 3.500 metri molto conosciute dagli alpinisti come l'imponente Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, l'Herbetet, l'Aiguille de Trélatête, la Grivola, il Mont Vélan, la Becca di Luseney e molte altre.

Central Valley

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PUNTA TERSIVA 3515m


    First ascent normal route (N-NW Arête) Grauson Valley from Gimillan: D. W. Freshfield and F. Dévouassoud, (Aug 1877).
    Difficulty: EEA/F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1800m.
    Refuge: From Gimillan Valley none. From Urtier Valley: Rifugio Sogno di Berdzé all'Alpe Peradzà (2526m). Places when open: 78. Winter hut: 21 places.
    Ascent time: 7,00-8,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including duvet, rope, crampons and ice-axe.


MONTE EMILIUS 3559m


    First ascent normal route (S-SE Arête - of Three Capuchins) from Pila: Giovan Battista Defey, Lorenzo Cerise and company unmentionable, (1823).
    Difficulty: F+.
    Difference in height: About 1800m.
    Refuge: Arbole (2496m). Places when open: 66. Winter hut: 18 places. Bivacco fisso Franco Nebbia (2872m), 6 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment.

Veny and Ferret Valley (Monte Bianco)

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AIGUILLE DES GLACIERS 3817m


    First ascent: E. Del Carretto, Francesco Gonnella, Laurent Proment, Ange and Gratien Henry, (Aug 02th, 1878).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 2160m.
    Refuge: Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini Montanaro (2200m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 24 places.
    Ascent time: 6,30-7,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE LA LEX BLANCHE 3697m


    First ascent: Edoardo Pennard and companions, (Sep 12th, 1959).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2040m.
    Refuge: Elisabetta Soldini-Montanaro (2200m). Places when open: 80. Winter hut: 24 places. Bivacco fisso Adolfo Hess (2958m), 4 places.
    Ascent time: 5,30-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLES DE TRÉLATÊTE 3920m


    First ascent: A. A. Reilly, E. Whymper, Michel Croz, Michel Payot and Henry Charlet, (Jul 12th, 1864).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height: About 2220m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Gino Rainetto (3047m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 8,30-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE L'AIGLE 3512m


    First ascent (S Slope): Agostino Ferrari, Laurent Bertholier and Felix Ollier, (Aug 13th, 1898).
    Difficulty: PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1855m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Gino Rainetto (3047m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


DÔMES DE MIAGE 3673m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


TÊTE CARRÉE 3726m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLES GRISES 3826m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


PUNTA INNOMINATA 3720m
    First ascent:
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLES NOIRE DE PEUTEREY 3773m


    First ascent (N Wall): Adolphe Rey, Alphonse Chenoz and Guido Alberto Rivetti, (Aug 07th, 1928).
    Difficulty: D+/TD-.
    Difference in height: About 2415m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso dalla Brenva (3200m), 5 places.
    Ascent time: 9,00-10,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route or E ridge (normal route), PD+/AD-.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


LES DAMES ANGLAISES 3601m


    First ascent (NW Slope): Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, duca degli Abruzzi, Laurent Croux and Ciprien Savoye, (Aug 07th, 1901).
    Difficulty: D.
    Difference in height: About 2240m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso dalla Brenva (3200m), 5 places.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


TOUR RONDE 3792m


    First ascent: J. H. Backhouse, T. S. Carson D. W. Freshfield, C. C. Tucker, Daniel Balleys and Michel Payot, (Jul 22th, 1867).
    Difficulty: PD+.
    Difference in height: About 420m from ref. Torino.
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 3,30-4,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE D'ENTRÈVES 3604m


    First ascent: Adolfo Hess, Flavio Santi and Julien Promen, (Aug 31th, 1897).
    Difficulty: PD+.
    Difference in height: About 230m from ref. Torino.
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 3,00-4,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, helmet and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE TOULA 3538m


    First ascent: P. Borchers and P. Reuschel, (Aug 03th, 1922).
    Difficulty: PD-.
    Difference in height: About 170m from ref. Torino.
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 2,30-3,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, helmet and crampons.


GRAND FLAMBEAU 3566m


    First ascent: Henri Cordier, Jakob Anderegg and Kaspar Maurer, (Jul 20th, 1876).
    Difficulty: F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 190m from ref. Torino.
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 1,00-1,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLES MARBRÉES 3536m


    First ascent: A. Hess, O. Leitz and Laurent Croux, (Jul 22th, 1898).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 165m from ref. Torino.
    Refuge: Rifugio Torino (3375m). Places when open: 190 places.
    Ascent time: 1,30-2,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES JORASSES PUNTA YOUNG 3996m


    First ascent: Enrico Peyronel and Walter Bonatti, (Jul 17th, 1952).
    Difficulty: TD+
    Difference in height: About 2403m from Planpincieux.
    Refuge: Rifugio Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti (2804m). Places when open: 25. Winter hut: 25 places.
    Ascent time: 12,00-12,30 hours.
    Descent: From normal route
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, nuts, friends, ice axe, and crampons.


PETITES JORASSES 3650m


    First ascent: Albert Guyard, Henri Devouassoud and Auguste Cupelin, (Sep 23th,1876).
    Difficulty: AD.
    Difference in height:
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Giusto Gervasutti (2835m), 10 places.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


POINTE DES HIRONDELLES 3519m


    First ascent:
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


MONT GREUVETTA 3684m


    First ascent:
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE LESCHAUX 3759m


    First ascent: J. A. G. Marshall, T. S. Kennedy, Johann Fischer and Julien Grande, (Jul 14th, 1872).
    Difficulty: AD+.
    Difference in height: About 2120m (from La Vachey Village).
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Giusto Gervasutti (2835m), 10 places.
    Ascent time: 8,00-9,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE TALÈFRE 3730m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE SAVOIE 3604m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


PUNTA ISABELLA 3761m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


AIGUILLE DE TRIOLET 3870m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


POINTE DU DOMINO 3648m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


MONT DOLENT 3819m


    First ascent: Edward Whymper, Antony Adams Reilly, Michel Croz, Henry Charlet and Michel Payot, (Jul 09th, 1864).
    Difficulty: PD+.
    Difference in height: About 2050m (from Arnouva Village).
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Cesare Fiorio (2800m), 20 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


MONT GRAPILLON 3576m
    First ascent:
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Gran San-Bernardo, Ollomont and Valpelline Valley (Mont Velan)

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MONT VELAN 3734m


    First ascent: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo (Aug 27th, 1998).
    Difficulty: AD+/D-.
    Difference in height: About 2185m (from Glacier Village).
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Savoie-Rosazza (2674m), 8 places.
    Ascent time: 11,00-12,00 hours.
    Descent: from E Ridge.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDE TÊTE DE BY 3588m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


MONT GÈLE 3518m


    First ascent: F. W. Jacomb, J. B. and Michel Croz, (Aug 11th, 1861).
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 1970m (from Glacier Village).
    Refuge: From Ollomont Valley: Bivacco fisso Nino Regondi (2650m) 16 places. From Valpelline Valley: Rifugio Crete Sèche (2410m). Places when open: 88. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacco fisso Franco Spataro (2600m), 9 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.


BECCA RAYETTE or BEC D'EPICOUN 3529m


    First ascent (N Ridge): J. J, Weilenmann and Joseph Gillioz, (Jul 21th, 1866).
    Difficulty: PD.
    Difference in height: About 1835m (from Ruz Village).
    Refuge: Rifugio Crete Sèche (2410m). Places when open: 88. Winter hut: 8 places. Bivacco fisso Franco Spataro (2600m), 9 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


GRAN BECCA BLANCHEN 3580m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


LA SENGLA 3714m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


BECCA D'OREN 3532m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


MONT BRULÉ 3591m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.


TÊTE DE VALPELLINE 3802m
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    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, helmet, frontal torch, ice axe, and crampons.

Saint-Barthélemy and Valtournenche Valley (Monte Cervino, Matterhorn)

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BECCA DI LUSENEY 3504m


    First ascent normal route: A. E. Martelli, Jean Antoine Carrel and Jean-Joseph Maquignaz, (Aug 01th, 1874).
    Difficulty: AD-.
    Difference in height: About 1750m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Luca Reboulaz (2560m), 24 places.
    Ascent time: 6,00-6,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.


GRANDES MURAILLES 3910m
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PUNTA BUDDEN 3630m
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TOUR DU CRÉTON 3579m
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Ayas and Gressoney Valley (Monte Rosa)

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GOBBA DI ROLLIN 3899m


    First ascent: Unknown.
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 435m.
    Refuge: Rifugio Guide del Cervino (3468m). Places when open: 40.
    Ascent time: 1,30-2,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.


PUNTA PERAZZI 3906m


    First ascent: (1930?).
    Difficulty: F+/PD-.
    Difference in height: About 1235m (from Bettaforca Pass).
    Refuge: Rifugio Quintino Sella, (3585m). Places when open: 180. Winter hut: 35 places.
    Ascent time: 5,00-5,30 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment: including rope, ice axe, and crampons.


TORRIONE DI VERRA 3738m


    First ascent: Unknown.
    Difficulty: F.
    Difference in height: About 2050m.
    Refuge: Bivacco fisso Città di Mariano (2830m), 9 places.
    Ascent time: 6,30-7,00 hours.
    Descent: Along the ascent route.
    Equipment: High mountain equipment, including rope, ice axe, and crampons.



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