OverviewThe summit of Piz Morteratsch, a mighty and complex ice-capped peak belonging to Bernina Group and located between Piz Prievlus and Fuorcla Boval, can be climbed along a beautiful and satisfactory Normal route running on the icy North ridge and starting from the wide saddle named Fuorcla da Boval m. 3347. This saddle has two different approachs: from Chamanna Boval m. 2495, a shelter located in a superb position dominating the impressive Vadret da Morteratsch (Morteratsch Glacier) on the East side and from Chamanna da Tschierva m. 2583, a shelter located near the smaller Vadret da Tschierva on the West side (Val Roseg).
The route rising from Chamanna Boval is more interesting and involves a pleasant rock climb on good granite steps to get the Fuorcla da Boval 3347 and after an easy ice-climb along the ending ice-slopes on the upper North ridge of the peak.
The other normal route starting from the Chamanna da Tschierva m. 2583 located in Val Roseg side, reachs the same Fuorcla da Boval, where it joins the one rising from Chamanna Boval.
Getting thereThe starting point to reach the Chamanna da Boval is Morteratsch, a little railway station at 1896 m. of altitude along the "Ferrovia Retica".
The starting point to reach the Chamanna da Tschierva is the village of Pontresina.
Both Pontresina and Morteratsh are on the route from S. Moritz to the Bernina Pass.
Road approach from Italy
By car: from Milano follow the Motorway to Lecco, then the road running on the East shore of Lago di Lecco to Colico - Chiavenna - Maloia Pass - Silvaplana - St. Moritz - Pontresina - Morteratsch
By railroad : Milano - Sondrio - Tirano - Bernina railway (the highest in Europe)
Route DescriptionNorth Ridge (Normal route) from Chamanna Boval report
Summit altitude: 3751 m.
Difficulty: Alpine F+, II- UIAA the rocky section, 35° on ice
Difference in level: 1250 m.
Exposure: East, then North
First ascent: Ch. G. Brugger - P. Gensler - K. Emmermann - A. Klaingutti 11-9-1858
From the Chamanna Boval (Bovalhütte) m. 2495 walk up on a steep path towards W along the Gianda Boval, then turn to left (SW), pass a small ridge at about 2800 m., getting the small glacier named Vadret Boval Dadains. Up the glacier, heading to the rocky wall and getting its base at about 3000 m. Start to climb it on easy rocky steps (red marks). In the upper part head to S, getting the Fuorcla da Boval m. 3347. From the col descent a few meters in the opposite side and head to left (South), following the upper snow-slopes of the Vadrettin da Tschierva and skirting the huge rocky pinnacles along the ridge overlooking the snow-slopes.
After the traverse, climb a rather steep icefield 35° for about 50 m., reach the ridge and follow it to the summit. Beware of some snow-covered crevasses between 3500 and 3700m!
Essential GearRope, ice-axe, crampons, helmet
Huts- Chamanna da Boval (Boval-Hütte) 2495 m. - CAS Sezione Bernina
Situation: North Bernina - West shore of Morteratsch Glacier.
open: 15 of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 12 in the winter-shelter
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on a path running on the left orographical side of Morteratsch Glacier
Hut's phone : 0041-8266403
- Chamanna da Tschierva (Tschierva Hütte) 2573 m. - CAS Sezione Bernina
Situation: West Bernina near Tschierva Glacier.
open: end of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 30 in the winter shelter
Getting There: Pontresina + Val Roseg: 3 hours on path
Hut's phone : 0041-8266391