Welcome to SP!  -
North Ridge Normal Route
Route

North Ridge Normal Route

 
North Ridge Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Engadin, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.39540°N / 9.90410°E

Object Title: North Ridge Normal Route

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD-

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2004 / May 11, 2014

Object ID: 161814

Hits: 3957 

Page Score: 73.81%  - 4 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

The summit of Piz Morteratsch, a mighty and complex ice-capped peak belonging to Bernina Group and located between Piz Prievlus and Fuorcla Boval, can be climbed along a beautiful and satisfactory Normal route running on the icy North ridge and starting from the wide saddle named Fuorcla da Boval m. 3347. This saddle has two different approachs: from Chamanna Boval m. 2495, a shelter located in a superb position dominating the impressive Vadret da Morteratsch (Morteratsch Glacier) on the East side and from Chamanna da Tschierva m. 2583, a shelter located near the smaller Vadret da Tschierva on the West side (Val Roseg).
The route rising from Chamanna Boval is more interesting and involves a pleasant rock climb on good granite steps to get the Fuorcla da Boval 3347 and after an easy ice-climb along the ending ice-slopes on the upper North ridge of the peak.
The other normal route starting from the Chamanna da Tschierva m. 2583 located in Val Roseg side, reachs the same Fuorcla da Boval, where it joins the one rising from Chamanna Boval.

 
Piz Morteratsch from Piz Tschierva
Piz Morteratsch seen from Piz Tschierva

Getting there

The starting point to reach the Chamanna da Boval is Morteratsch, a little railway station at 1896 m. of altitude along the "Ferrovia Retica".
The starting point to reach the Chamanna da Tschierva is the village of Pontresina.
Both Pontresina and Morteratsh are on the route from S. Moritz to the Bernina Pass.


Road approach from Italy

By car: from Milano follow the Motorway to Lecco, then the road running on the East shore of Lago di Lecco to Colico - Chiavenna - Maloia Pass - Silvaplana - St. Moritz - Pontresina - Morteratsch

By railroad : Milano - Sondrio - Tirano - Bernina railway (the highest in Europe)




Route Description

North Ridge (Normal route) from Chamanna Boval report

Summit altitude: 3751 m.
Difficulty: Alpine F+, II- UIAA the rocky section, 35° on ice
Difference in level: 1250 m.
Exposure: East, then North
First ascent: Ch. G. Brugger - P. Gensler - K. Emmermann - A. Klaingutti 11-9-1858

From the Chamanna Boval (Bovalhütte) m. 2495 walk up on a steep path towards W along the Gianda Boval, then turn to left (SW), pass a small ridge at about 2800 m., getting the small glacier named Vadret Boval Dadains. Up the glacier, heading to the rocky wall and getting its base at about 3000 m. Start to climb it on easy rocky steps (red marks). In the upper part head to S, getting the Fuorcla da Boval m. 3347. From the col descent a few meters in the opposite side and head to left (South), following the upper snow-slopes of the Vadrettin da Tschierva and skirting the huge rocky pinnacles along the ridge overlooking the snow-slopes.
After the traverse, climb a rather steep icefield 35° for about 50 m., reach the ridge and follow it to the summit. Beware of some snow-covered crevasses between 3500 and 3700m!


Essential Gear

Rope, ice-axe, crampons, helmet

Huts

- Chamanna da Boval (Boval-Hütte) 2495 m. - CAS Sezione Bernina
Situation: North Bernina - West shore of Morteratsch Glacier.
open: 15 of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 12 in the winter-shelter
Getting There: train Morteratsch station: 2 hours on a path running on the left orographical side of Morteratsch Glacier
Hut's phone : 0041-8266403

- Chamanna da Tschierva (Tschierva Hütte) 2573 m. - CAS Sezione Bernina
Situation: West Bernina near Tschierva Glacier.
open: end of March - 15 of May and 15 of june- 15 of October
Size: 100 persons + 30 in the winter shelter
Getting There: Pontresina + Val Roseg: 3 hours on path
Hut's phone : 0041-8266391



Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing, mountaineering and hiking.



Meteo

METEOSWITZERLAND



Guidebooks and maps

"Bernina" by N. Canetta - G. Miotti Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

Images

A bright day\'s starting on Piz Morteratsch Normal Route Piz Morteratsch from Piz TschiervaSunrise on Piz MorteratschPiz Morteratsch Normal Route starting rocksJust beneath the Fuorcla da...View towards Fuorcla da Boval...Sunrise over Munt Pers...
View from summit of Piz...Heading up to the passRoute towards Piz Morteratsch...Scrambling towards Fuorcla da...Scrambling towards Fuorcla da...