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Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Trad Climbing, Scrambling |
Season:
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Spring, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Overview
Hammad route is one of the most popular routes to Jabel Rum summits. It is used as the descent route for many other routes that lead to the plateau of Jabel Rum. The route includes sections of trad climbing and scrambling on slab rocks that lead to the summit of Jabel Rum.Getting There
The route starts from climbing on the Great Siq ridge. A good option is to head to the Laurence well, pass the stairs and enter a small gorge to the right via some green bushes with a pleasant smell. Go up till the end of the gorge. The route start climbing on the right.Another option is to start climbing the ridge straightforward after reaching it and find a way up (including sections of climbing).
Route Description
Route scheme
Red cross - Jabel Rum summit
The first section - climb on the ridge
If you followed the first option of approach to the route:
The first section of the route is a two pitches climbing to the ridge of the Great Siq.
First pitch, scrambling (ends on the top of the pillar shown on the photo):
Second pitch, 5.9 climbing on the crack:
The second section - exit from the great siq to slab rocks
Follow cairns on the ridge and enter the Great Siq. Pass the narrow gorge till the end. Climbing starts on the left wall. After climbing first few meters the route traverses to the right and than goes up. Look for chemical bolts - they should be on the way on traverse and further.
It is possible also to climb up the crack without traversing to the right, but at the end there are some 6a\b moves and protection isn't perfect.
After that you have to climb a short crack with a dullard on its bottom. Follow the route up and pass around the hard section on the left.
Finally, climb another short crack with a tree at its right.
The third section - slab rocks to the summit
This section includes less technical sections but a lot of path finding. Search for the cairns all the way up. There will be one 3m climbing between slices of slab rocks (look for a chemical bolt on the top of it, used for descending) and a lot of scrambling on the slabs.
You should eventually get to a big field of sand and bushes - it is a good sign that you are on the right way. There are many signs of camp fires there because this place is a good camping site for spending a night on the plateau.
Pass the field from the left side to get to the final section of slab rocks that lead to the summit. The summit is at the left, although you should go a little bit around and get to it from the right and behind.
Descent
Descent is by following the route backwards. There are two short belays, another one ~20m+ with a two bolts and a chain, and finally the ~35m+ one (also with a good bolted belay station) into the great siq.
After exiting the great siq narrow section to the ridge, you have two options.
1. First option is to go till the end of the ridge and search for a belay station to the small pillar (start of the second pitch to the ridge). From the small pillar downclimb the first pitch and find a bolted belay at the middle of it.
2. Another, maybe faster but less obvious option is instead of getting on the ridge to start descending to the right immediately after exiting the great siq narrow section. You will eventually find a bolted belay on the left side and after rappelling it, going right and downclimbing two meters, you will find a belay station on a big shelf. It leads to the ground of the gorge you started the route with.