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Harvey's Wallbangers, Center
Route

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center

 
Harvey\'s Wallbangers, Center

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.79940°N / 120.135°W

Object Title: Harvey's Wallbangers, Center

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.6

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dragger

Created/Edited: Aug 31, 2004 / Sep 14, 2004

Object ID: 162000

Hits: 3025 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


To get to the base of the climb, first head out the Pony Express trail that leads east, straight out of the campground. Keep going on the trail with the main wall on your right and Hogsback on your left. After you've gone maybe 10 or 15 minutes, look left and you'll notice a notch in Hogsback. There's a pretty obvious climbers trail that heads north, over the notch. You should take that trail. It meanders up and follows a small, usually dry drainage. The trail will go up and over the notch and then start bending to the west. (Remain fairly high on the slope, near the base of the rock; the first time I followed this trail I lost it and went too low. This resulted in a fair amount of bush-whacking.) Continue skirting the rock slope through boulder fields. The first climb you'll come to is Knapsack Crack; continue on past Deception to arrive at a tree and the base of Harvey's Wallbangers, Center (and Left and Right). 3rd and 4th class up to the base of the tree.

Route Description


Pitch 1: The route starts and the base of a pine tree and follows a flake and crack system up and slightly to the left. The beginning of the first pitch is very easy and hardly requires pro. There's a distinctive right-protruding flake that resembles an "L". I climbed up and past it to the left. You'll then be transitioning into a left-facing dihedral. Just before a small "roof" there's one 5.6 move that requires a little bit of lay-backing and finger jamming as I recall. Otherwise the pitch is quite easy. The best place to set up the belay is just over that little "roof" and parallel an old piton. (I kept going past this point and set up the first belay higher but it was much more awkward.)

Pitch 2: You will now continue heading up the main crack system that you've been on since traversing over after the "L" flake. You can follow this crack all the way to the top, up and over some small bulges and mini-roofs. There are a couple of weird mantel moves near the top of the blocks near the summit. (I looked a bit like a beached whale on one of them but hopefully nobody saw that.) If you don't like the second mantel move, you can make an easy traverse to the right and ascend easy cracks and bulges to reach the top. Once you've reached the top anchor off on a pine tree, kick back in the sunshine and enjoy the view while bringing up your partner.

Descent: Walk off the backside of Hogsback. Work your way down and to the north to eventually connect back up with the climbers trail that you took on the approach.

All in all this is a low angle 5.6 with huge rests and tons of places set pro. It's also a lot of fun and probably a good warm up for harder stuff. I climbed it with a partner I'd never climbed with before and it was a perfect "get acquainted" climb. Have fun!

Essential Gear


Suggestions:


  • One set of nuts

  • One set of cams, emphasizing medium cams (.5 - 3)

  • Bring light approach shoes with you to walk off the backside of Hogsback. If you are going to move on the main wall afterwards, bring all your gear with you so you don't have to walk back to the base of the climb. Then you can just walk off the backside straight down and over to the main wall.

    Miscellaneous Info


    If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

    Additions and Corrections

    [ Post an Addition or Correction ]
    Viewing: 1-5 of 5    
    DigglerRoute Comment

    Diggler

    Hasn't voted

    Hey Carolyn, did this route yesterday & really enjoyed it (with the exception of the belay station between Ps 1 & 2)! I personally thought the route was 5.7 in a few places, with the awkward final lieback/mantel (avoidable via a 5-second class 1 walk to the R) a 5.8.
    Posted Jun 27, 2005 1:00 pm
    DraggerRoute Comment

    Dragger

    Hasn't voted

    Yeah, that was a fun route. Did you miss that first belay too? I sure did, it was a pain & quite awkward as I recall. Yeah, I remember that there were a couple strange mantels. I'm not very good with ratings -- you're probably right -- sometimes things seem a lot harder (or a little easier) to me than the rest of the world!
    Posted Jun 27, 2005 8:33 pm
    DraggerRe: Harvey's Wallbangers, Center ?

    Dragger

    Hasn't voted

    Hi Squishy, when were you there? We were there this past weekend. Yes, the Harvey's Wallbangers Center, Left, Right -- it's all confusing to me, even with topos. Don't the left and center converge too? Maybe it is left except we didn't start up the crack to the left of the boot shaped flake... that's why I called it "Center"... but I'm really not sure.
    Posted Jun 30, 2008 12:34 pm
    DraggerRe: Harvey's Wallbangers, Center ?

    Dragger

    Hasn't voted

    Wow, cool! I took a new climber up Knapsack crack. We probably started climbing at about 10:30 or 11:00. I have no idea if I saw you or not but I think you spoke with Craig -- I think he's going to chime in here in a minute. :^)
    Posted Jun 30, 2008 3:29 pm
    Craig PeerRe: Harvey's Wallbangers, Center ?

    Craig Peer

    Hasn't voted

    Ya, I went up the Center route and hung out with you on the ledge. You guys must have done the left side variation. it's all good!!



    Nice meeting you!! Craig
    Posted Jun 30, 2008 3:48 pm

    Viewing: 1-5 of 5    

    Images

    To get to the base of Harveys...Looking down the low-angled...This is looking down the 2nd...At the top of the 2nd pitch...