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Hochalmspitze
Mountain/Rock

Hochalmspitze

 
Hochalmspitze

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Hohe Tauern, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.01620°N / 13.32170°E

Object Title: Hochalmspitze

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 11023 ft / 3360 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jul 30, 2003 / Mar 5, 2012

Object ID: 151720

Hits: 26876 

Page Score: 93.72%  - 44 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

  • The first ascent info updated.
  • January 11th, 2006 - The Wiews from the distance chapter added, pictures re-attached..
  • November 29th, 2004 - A little redesign made, pictures linked and attached/detached.
  • August 6th, 2004 - Links to two ice-climbs inserted.

    Overview

     
    Hochalmspitze from the West
    Hochalmspitze from the West
     
    hochalmspitze
    Detmolder Grat
     
     Steinerne Mannln
    Steinerne Maennln

    Hochalmspitze

    is the highest mountain in Ankogel group, and most certainly the most beautiful glacier summit east of Grossglockner. From whereever in the east you look on the high Central Alps range of Hohe Tauern, you will see its glaciers shining above green forehills.

    As almost entire Hohe Tauern range also Hochalmspitze is built of solide granite. Therefore on its ridges and walls you will see many wild rock forms and on lower parts of the mountain glacier waters stay in many lakes.

    The summit of Hochalmspitze sends many long ridges in all directions. Actually close to the main summit in these ridges there are some nearby lower summits, forming the narrow Hochalmspitze group: Preiml-Spitze, Grosselend-Kopf, Schneewinkel-Spitze, Winterriegel, Kaerl-Spitze etc. While the main Hohe Tauern range goes north of it, a long ridge, heading NW-SE direction is connecting Ankogel with the Hochalmspitze group. On Grosselend-Kopf a strong ridge deters towards E, beyond the Preimlscharte (2950m) it culminates in Preimlspitze (3133m). This ridge and the ridge towards Ankogel lie above the Grosselendkees (glacier). A strong ridge goes from the main summit in the SW direction towards Saeuleck. In it the following peaks are: Winkel-Spitze, 3112m, Schneewinkel-Spitze, 3016m and Gussenbauer-Spitze, 2978m. Between SW and NW ridge the Winkelkees (glacier) lies. From the summit a strong ridge goes also towards E. On the southern side a rapidly melting Trippkees (glacier) lies. Between the E ridge and the Preiml ridge a broad Hochalmkees (glacier) lies. In some parts it is rich with crevasses but in winter it also enables a long but comfortable ski ascent.

     
    At sunrise seen from the...
    Hochalmspitze from the E

    The first ascent history

    is quite interesting. In 1855 four men from Gmuend, guided by a hunter from Malta ascended the eastern part of Hochalmkees. A big crevasse stopped them. Later, they climbed again, reached Steinerne Maennln, but did not proceed, although it was a calm, sunny day. On the same month Martin Krall with companions came, but in a dense fog they climbed the nearby Grosselendkopf instead of the main summit. In August 1859 Anton fon Ruthner reached the foresummit, the 3346 m high Schneeige Hochalmspitze (Snow-peak), but he and his guide didn't dare to climb the exposed ridge to the main summit (only 5-10 minutes). So a few days later, on August 15th, the famous Paul Grohmann came and took the victory. But did he really? This was the official story until 2010 when Hans Jungmeier found some more than 150 year old letters which were kept in Martin Krall's archives.

    On August 30th, 1855, the highest summit of Hochalmspitze were reached by Josef Moritz from Eisentratten with the local guide Andreas Pucher from Grosshattenberg in Liesertal and Jakob Haman. They did not however raise on the top the usual ciarn, so the first-ascent history turned into a mini mountaineering "crimi".

     
    Hochalmspitze from east, from...
    Above the Hochalmkees

    Why to climb it?

    The mountain is mostly visited by mountaineers and skiers. Although being surrounded by many huts, Hochalmspitze is not an easy mountain. In the close neighbourhood there are no mass sports centres and no cable car penetrates its slopes. To earn its wide panorama a mountaineer must be able of some easy climbing, glacier crossing, few approaches are also steep and exposed. Still, reaching the summit of Hochalmspitze is one of the most desirable goals in this region.

    Views On Hochalmspitze From The Distance


    from the NW


    from the N


    from the NE


    from the W

    HOCHALMSPITZE


    from the E


    from the SW


    from the S


    from the SE



    The eastern side of Hochalmspitze is flat enough, the broad Hochalmkees covers it.
    Also southern slopes are not steep, until the summit ridge. But the Trippkees has almost melted in the last years.
    The western side is the steepest. Through the summit wall a few couloirs are cut.
    On the northern side Grosselend-Kopf, the fore-summit is covered by the broad Grosselendkees.

    Summit Shots

     
    On the summit of...
     
     
    Summit cross of Hochalmspitze (3.360 m)
     
     
    The summit of Hochalmspitze
     

    Getting There

    For the broader overview see the Hohe Tauern GROUP page and Ankogel SUBGROUP page!

    The south, east and north approach all start in the beautiful Malta valley, being guarded by the picturesque town of Gmuend, lying already on the Salzburg - Villach highway.

     
    Hochalmspitze/Gößgraben valley
    The southern approach

    1. South approach. Driving by car into Malta valley you can deter in Malta village to the left, drive by a narrow, but good mountain road through the Goessgraben and reach the parking place below the Gosskar lake dam (1670m). From there, you can reach the Giessener Huette (2215m) by a steep, for public traffic closed road, appropriate for a mountain bike.

    2. East approach. After passing the Malta village you stop in the Maltatal by the Gmuender Huette, 1186m. There a steep forrest road deters left, closed for public traffic. After it finishes (at the altitude of cca 1900m) a marked path brings you to the Villacher Huette, 2194m. This hut is not regularly serviced.

    3. North approach. The road through main Malta valley is soon after the Gmuender Huette closed and to continue to the huge Koelnbreinsperre (dam) you must pay toll. This road is opened from the end of May till first snow, so it can be used for late spring ski tours and for summer ascents. From the big parking place by the dam (1950m) you continue a 2 hours walk by the lake and reach Osnabrucker Huette (2026m).

    4. The approach from the West starts in Mallnitz, a small tourist town, which can be reached either by the road from south (from Moelltal) or by train, coming through the main Hohe Tauern ridge by the tunnel from Badgastein. The train can also carry your car. From Mallnitz you go by Seetal (valley) eastwards, reach the station of Ankogel cable car which brings you up to Hannover Haus (2719m). Reaching Hochalmspitze from this hut is still a long, tiresome endeavor. The other possibility is to go from Mallnitz into the Doesenertal (possible by car to the altitude of 1400m), walk to Arthur-Schmid-Haus (2272m), and from there take a long hard ascent to Hochalmspitze over the Saeuleck summit.

    You can see a detailed map on:

    http://www.austrianmap.at/.

    Routes overview



    Normal approaches


    1. From Giessener Huette, 2215m. The Hut - Steinerne Maennln - E ridge - summit. Steep snow, ferratta, easy climb on the ridge. 3h 30min.


    2. From Villacher Huette, 2194m. Towards the East to the glacier, over it to Steinerne Maennln or Preiml Scharte - summit. Glacier ascent. 3h 30min.


    3. From Osnabrucker Huette, 2026m. The hut - on the Preiml Scharte - summit. Glacier, steep ascent through the couloir under Preiml Scharte. 4h.
     
    Preimlscharte
    Preiml Scharte
     
    Track from Preimlscharte
    Summit slopes
    4. Detmolder Grat (ridge). Saeuleck (3085m, to this summit 2h 30min from Arthur Schmid-Haus) - SW (Detmolder) ridge - summit. Hard ferratta and combined (easy climb) ascent. From Saeuleck 6h. The ridge can be also reached from Giessener Huette on Lassacher Winkel-Scharte, 2862m. This shortens the ascent. Very popular is this ascent with the descent, described in #1 (in total 8-10 hours).


    5. From Hannover Haus, 2719m. First to Grosselend Scharte, 2674m (cca 2 hours). From there two long routes go towards the summit: Over the Hannover Scharte and Grosselend Kopf (I don't know - could be hard glacier ascent) and by the Cellar Weg (path) on Lassacher Winkel-Scharte and by the Detmolder ridge to the top.
     
    Hochalmspitze, 3.360m
    From Hannover Haus


    Harder climbs


    On Hochalmspitze's NW face there are also some harder (ice) climbs. Conditions for ice-climbing is best in early summer.

    1. Gussenbauerrinne (Gussenbauer Couloir), 55 degrees, 280m. Karl Gussenbauer, J. Weichslederer and Krapfl; 1871.

    2. Nördlichste Rinne (Northern couloir), 55 degrees, 260m. First climber: unknown.

    Red Tape

     
    Hochalmspitze Glowing
    wuedesau - From an airplane

    The mountain lies in the Hohe Tauern national park, so you are obliged to strictly obey the rules of protecting nature.

    For the road to Koelnbreinsperre you need to pay toll.

    When To Climb

    The best months to climb Hochalmspitze are summer - from start of July when the weather starts to stabilize till autumn. In spring there are good conditions for tour skiing, but for the whole ascent from Malta valley snow must lie also on the altitude of 1200 meters, while for late spring tours the road to Koelnbreinsperre is closed till the second half of May and the road to Gosskar lake opens only with July 1st.

    In summer the summit can be reached in one day, while for a ski tour you will need two days.

    See also conditions on the mountain with this live web camera.

    Camping

    Climbing Hochalmspitze you can use the following mountain huts:

    Giessener Huette, 2215m. It is lying on the southern side of the mountain, above the Goessgraben valley. It can be reached from the parking place at Gosskar lake (1670m) in 1h 30min. (You can use a mountain bike too). Opened: from July 1st till end of September. Tel.: 04733/336



    Villacher Huette, 2194m. It is lying under the moraine of the Hochalm glacier. . It can be reached from the parking place at Gmuender Huette (1186m) in 3 hours. It is not regularly serviced. Tel.: 04242/431053

    Osnabrucker Huette, 2026m. It is lying at the upper end of Koelnbrein lake. It can be reached from the parking place at the dam (street toll till there, 1950m) in 2h. From the dam you can use a bike too. Opened: from mid June till end of September. Tel.: 04783/211139159



    Hannover Haus, 2719m. It is lying far away from Hochalmspitze, by the upper station of Ankogel cable car. Opened: from July 1st till end of September. Tel.: 0664/1619367

    Celler Huette, 2240m. It stands west of Hochalmspitze. It can be reached from Hannoverhaus in 3-4 h or directly from Mallnitz in 5 h. The hut is a self-service hut and can be used from end of June to the beginning of October. The hut gives the western approach to Lassacher Winkelscharte pass and Detmolder Grat, and it is a basis for the difficult ice climbing routes of the NW face. Link: Celler Huette.

    Additions and Corrections

    [ Post an Addition or Correction ]
    Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
    Mathias Zehringfirst ascent

    Mathias Zehring

    Voted 10/10

    In the yearly book of the german/austrian alpine clubs for 2010 there is an interesting article by Heinz Jungmaier: he has found some - more than 150 years old - letters that include a report about the really frist ascent: That has been done on August 30th 1855, by Josef Moritz from Eisentratten with local guides Andreas Pucher and Jakob Haman.
    Posted May 15, 2010 3:29 am
    Vid PogachnikRe: first ascent

    Vid Pogachnik

    Hasn't voted

    Interesting news! I will immediately have a look - I hope that's on the web, I usually find them.



    Thanks a lot!

    Vid
    Posted May 15, 2010 4:14 am
    Vid PogachnikRe: first ascent

    Vid Pogachnik

    Hasn't voted

    Aha. It's Jungmeier. There are other articles as well...
    Posted May 15, 2010 4:22 am

    Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

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