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Saeuleck
Mountain/Rock

Saeuleck

 
Saeuleck

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Hohe Tauern - Ankogel Group, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.99690°N / 13.28780°E

Object Title: Saeuleck

Activities: Mountaineering, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10124 ft / 3086 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Sep 8, 2002 / Dec 31, 2013

Object ID: 151189

Hits: 10479 

Page Score: 85.36%  - 20 Votes 

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Overview

Saeuleck, 3.086m
flow - Saeuleck portrait (from the NW), below is Seebachtal

What's New On This Page?

> February 6th, 2013 - SP V3 design updates.

> January 8th, 2009 - Pictures attached/detached.

> February 13th, 2005 - The 'Summit Views' chapter added and pictures attached/detached.

Saeuleck Presented

Saeuleck (Säuleck) is one of four most important peaks of the Ankogel Group. Because of its easy access, It is often referred as a Damen-3000er. (As Mathias Zehring says: "It is perhaps interesting that this old prejudice has been published by a lady, the austrian author Liselotte Buchenauer".) From its top it's also possible to ski towards Doesenertal.

With the highest peak of this group, Hochalmspitze, it is connected by a long ridge, where also a not very easy marked route leads. Saeuleck's north slopes fall deep down (more than 1000m) in Seebachtal, eastern and south slopes are not so high. From it's peak a long ridge branches towards the west (to Maresenspitzen), while the main ridge continues from Hochalmspitze towards the south, where the Ankogel Group connects to the Reisseck Group.

Saeuleck is often ascended. It takes you a one day hike, only near the top you will have to scramble a bit. Marked routes arrive from the SW through Doesenertal and from the SE through Gossgraben, connecting on Mallnitzer Scharte (pass).

Saeuleck (the right of both...
From the east
Saeuleck from Doesner lake
Herb - From Doesener See (SW)
Säuleck and Schneewinklspitz
Karfilat - From the NE

Summit Views

Hochalmspitze from Saeuleck SE-ridge
Herb - Hochalmspitze
Morning on the summit of the...
Mathias Zehring - On the top

Ankogel from Saeuleck
The view on Ankogel

Getting There

West approach:

You follow the valley of river Drau to Obervellach, where you turn north towards well known tourist resort Mallnitz (1190m). If you're by car, you turn just before Mallnitz right in Doesenertal and drive till the point where the road is closed (cca 1400m). From here to the top you will need cca 5 hours.

East approach:

You leave A10 highway (Salzburg-Villach) in Gmuend, where you enter the Malta valley. You drive through Malta till Koschach, where you turn westwards into the Gossgraben. From the end of the road you'll need to the peak cca 4-5 hours.

North approach

(Contributed by Mathias Zehring):
Mallnitz can be reached from the north (especally from Germany) via Salzburg - Bischofshofen - Badgastein and then through the railway tunnel that carries also cars. Because this is an important railway route, the apprach can very well be done by train. You can hire a taxi in Mallnitz that brings you into the Doessener Tal valley.

You can see a detailed map on:

http://www.austrianmap.at/.

Routes List

The map of Seauleck

Many marked routes are reaching the summit of Saeuleck. Among them is also a new, hard ferrata, which has in addition to difficult secured passages also a few climbing passages of degree 2.

1. Normal approach from the SW (from Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus). Not demanding hike-up, 2h 30min.

2. Buderus Weg (East approach). Hike-up, with one secured place (the ravine to Mallnitz notch) to be climbed. 3h.

3. Detmolder Weg. The route is usually done when connecting in a long tour the summits of Saeuleck and Hochalmspitze. The approach is from the eastern side and then by the NE ridge (Detmoldergrat) on top. Easy climb and ferrata. Over Schneewinkelspitze - 5h 30min.

4. Naturnaher Klettersteig (Saeuleck ferrata). This is a new, hard ferrata, which was constructed in 2007. On the Austrian 6-point scale (A-F) it id rated D, with a few climbing details of degree 2. The ascent goes from Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus and then by an exposed ridge on top. See the description in German here. (Thanks to Mathias Zehring for info.)

Red Tape

No limitations.

When To Climb

A. v. Schmidt
Troll - in the times of tour skiing

Saeuleck is accessible the whole year, although best months for climbing would be July to October. In winter conditions you should come with skis, but if you don't ski, you'll need some winter equipment, especially if snow is hard or slopes are icy.

Camping

Lake Doesner and Arthur von Schmied H.
rufus - Doesener See and Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus

Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus (2275m). In case you don't want to climb Saeuleck in one day this is the best base for west approach.

Credit for this information to SP member: seba_mallnitz
Date: Nov 08, 2003 08:40 AM
- 2,281m. above sealevel in Mallnitz.
- Opened from the beginning of June till 10 October.
- 25 beds, 46 lager, 30 notlager
- Winterroom opened, 15beds, Skitours only possible in the beginning of the year.
- Mobile telephonenumber: 0043-06 64-112 28 27
- Owner: ÖAV Sektion Graz St. G. V., A-8010 Graz, Sackstrasse 16
Tel.: 00 43-316 82 22 66
E-mail= graz@sektion.alpenverein.at
- Host: Johann Fleissner, A-9822 Mallnitz

Giessener Huette (2202m. In case you don't want to climb Saeuleck in one day this is the best base for east approach.

Credit for this information to SP member: seba_mallnitz
Date: Nov 08, 2003 08:41 AM
- 2,215m. above sealevel in Malta/Gmünd.
- Opened from the beginning of July till the end of September
- 24 beds, 42 lager, 34 notlager, 12 lager in Winterroom
- Owner: DAV Sektion Giessen-Oberhessen e. V., Schillerstrasse 34, D- 3530 Giessen.
Tel.: D-06 41- 39 05 12
Fax: D-0641- 301 14 68
E-mail: dav-giessen@t-online.de
Internet: http://home.t-online.de/home/dav-giessen.de
- Host: Otmar Baier, Brandstatt 13, A-9854 Malta.
Tel. hut: 0043 - 6 63-914 80 24

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-9 of 9    
Vid PogachnikUntitled Comment

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

That would be normal. But you climbed to the top of Saeuleck over Schneewinkelspitze. 5,5h is OK - I can add this info to the east approach.





But my original information says, that you can reach Saeuleck from east (from the parking place) in 4 hours. You don't need to go over Schneewinkelspitze, but you can climb over Mallnitzer Scharte. It's more direct and easier (but I didn't go there) and probably can be done in 4h.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 8:16 am
BorUntitled Comment

Bor

Voted 10/10

Yes I agree..we desended there but my mother went there up and I think she was walking around 5 hours. We descended there then together and we were walking around 3 hours.





For information! =)





Chears Bor!
Posted Sep 13, 2004 10:42 am
Christoph De WindtUntitled Comment

Christoph De Windt

Voted 10/10

Hey guys,





A view years ago I did this trip, starting in Arthur v. Schmid-Haus over Grosser Gösspitze to Saüleck and Schneewinkelspitze and from there to Geissenerhütte and I did need 10 hours to do that. The next day I went to the Hannoverhaus.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 10:46 am
BorUntitled Comment

Bor

Voted 10/10

Vid I must correct you something!


For the east approach over Detmolder Weg we walked about 5,5 hours and we were quick. Because the ridge from Schneewinkelspitze to the Saeuleck is very long nad has a lot of ascends and descends!





Chears Bor!
Posted Sep 12, 2004 3:34 pm
Vid PogachnikUntitled Comment

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

That would be normal. But you climbed to the top of Saeuleck over Schneewinkelspitze. 5,5h is OK - I can add this info to the east approach.





But my original information says, that you can reach Saeuleck from east (from the parking place) in 4 hours. You don't need to go over Schneewinkelspitze, but you can climb over Mallnitzer Scharte. It's more direct and easier (but I didn't go there) and probably can be done in 4h.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 8:16 am
BorUntitled Comment

Bor

Voted 10/10

Yes I agree..we desended there but my mother went there up and I think she was walking around 5 hours. We descended there then together and we were walking around 3 hours.





For information! =)





Chears Bor!
Posted Sep 13, 2004 10:42 am
Christoph De WindtUntitled Comment

Christoph De Windt

Voted 10/10

Hey guys,





A view years ago I did this trip, starting in Arthur v. Schmid-Haus over Grosser Gösspitze to Saüleck and Schneewinkelspitze and from there to Geissenerhütte and I did need 10 hours to do that. The next day I went to the Hannoverhaus.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 10:46 am
Mathias Zehringnew ferrata

Mathias Zehring

Voted 10/10

In 2008 a new via ferrata has been built. It is a long and difficult one - rated D on the austrian A-E-scale

description in german
Posted Aug 9, 2009 5:34 pm
Vid PogachnikRe: new ferrata

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

Thank you, mathias! I put basic info and the link on the page of Saeuleck.

Cheers!

Vid
Posted Aug 10, 2009 3:55 am

Viewing: 1-9 of 9    

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