Overview
What's New On This Page?
> February 6th, 2013 - SP V3 design updates.> January 8th, 2009 - Pictures attached/detached.
> February 13th, 2005 - The 'Summit Views' chapter added and pictures attached/detached.
Saeuleck Presented
Saeuleck (Säuleck) is one of four most important peaks of the Ankogel Group. Because of its easy access, It is often referred as a Damen-3000er. (As Mathias Zehring says: "It is perhaps interesting that this old prejudice has been published by a lady, the austrian author Liselotte Buchenauer".) From its top it's also possible to ski towards Doesenertal.With the highest peak of this group, Hochalmspitze, it is connected by a long ridge, where also a not very easy marked route leads. Saeuleck's north slopes fall deep down (more than 1000m) in Seebachtal, eastern and south slopes are not so high. From it's peak a long ridge branches towards the west (to Maresenspitzen), while the main ridge continues from Hochalmspitze towards the south, where the Ankogel Group connects to the Reisseck Group.
Saeuleck is often ascended. It takes you a one day hike, only near the top you will have to scramble a bit. Marked routes arrive from the SW through Doesenertal and from the SE through Gossgraben, connecting on Mallnitzer Scharte (pass).
Summit Views
Getting There
West approach:
You follow the valley of river Drau to Obervellach, where you turn north towards well known tourist resort Mallnitz (1190m). If you're by car, you turn just before Mallnitz right in Doesenertal and drive till the point where the road is closed (cca 1400m). From here to the top you will need cca 5 hours.East approach:
You leave A10 highway (Salzburg-Villach) in Gmuend, where you enter the Malta valley. You drive through Malta till Koschach, where you turn westwards into the Gossgraben. From the end of the road you'll need to the peak cca 4-5 hours.North approach
(Contributed by Mathias Zehring):Mallnitz can be reached from the north (especally from Germany) via Salzburg - Bischofshofen - Badgastein and then through the railway tunnel that carries also cars. Because this is an important railway route, the apprach can very well be done by train. You can hire a taxi in Mallnitz that brings you into the Doessener Tal valley.
You can see a detailed map on:
http://www.austrianmap.at/.
Routes List
Many marked routes are reaching the summit of Saeuleck. Among them is also a new, hard ferrata, which has in addition to difficult secured passages also a few climbing passages of degree 2.
1. Normal approach from the SW (from Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus). Not demanding hike-up, 2h 30min.
2. Buderus Weg (East approach). Hike-up, with one secured place (the ravine to Mallnitz notch) to be climbed. 3h.
3. Detmolder Weg. The route is usually done when connecting in a long tour the summits of Saeuleck and Hochalmspitze. The approach is from the eastern side and then by the NE ridge (Detmoldergrat) on top. Easy climb and ferrata. Over Schneewinkelspitze - 5h 30min.
4. Naturnaher Klettersteig (Saeuleck ferrata). This is a new, hard ferrata, which was constructed in 2007. On the Austrian 6-point scale (A-F) it id rated D, with a few climbing details of degree 2. The ascent goes from Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus and then by an exposed ridge on top. See the description in German here. (Thanks to Mathias Zehring for info.)
Red Tape
No limitations.When To Climb
Saeuleck is accessible the whole year, although best months for climbing would be July to October. In winter conditions you should come with skis, but if you don't ski, you'll need some winter equipment, especially if snow is hard or slopes are icy.
Camping
Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus (2275m). In case you don't want to climb Saeuleck in one day this is the best base for west approach.
Credit for this information to SP member: seba_mallnitz
Date: Nov 08, 2003 08:40 AM
- 2,281m. above sealevel in Mallnitz.
- Opened from the beginning of June till 10 October.
- 25 beds, 46 lager, 30 notlager
- Winterroom opened, 15beds, Skitours only possible in the beginning of the year.
- Mobile telephonenumber: 0043-06 64-112 28 27
- Owner: ÖAV Sektion Graz St. G. V., A-8010 Graz, Sackstrasse 16
Tel.: 00 43-316 82 22 66
E-mail= graz@sektion.alpenverein.at
- Host: Johann Fleissner, A-9822 Mallnitz
Giessener Huette (2202m. In case you don't want to climb Saeuleck in one day this is the best base for east approach.
Credit for this information to SP member: seba_mallnitz
Date: Nov 08, 2003 08:41 AM
- 2,215m. above sealevel in Malta/Gmünd.
- Opened from the beginning of July till the end of September
- 24 beds, 42 lager, 34 notlager, 12 lager in Winterroom
- Owner: DAV Sektion Giessen-Oberhessen e. V., Schillerstrasse 34, D- 3530 Giessen.
Tel.: D-06 41- 39 05 12
Fax: D-0641- 301 14 68
E-mail: dav-giessen@t-online.de
Internet: http://home.t-online.de/home/dav-giessen.de
- Host: Otmar Baier, Brandstatt 13, A-9854 Malta.
Tel. hut: 0043 - 6 63-914 80 24
























